Boat flooding, hole in exhaust baffle. Bad manifold?

Family runabout

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Hello, and thank you to all who are willing to share your time and expertise! I've learned so much here already!
I am a "proud" new owner of a 1983 Bayliner Capri 1650, Volvo Penta AQ125a, and 270 outdrive. I picked her up cheap last fall, and am now finding out why.
She looks rough; upholstery is completely shot, floor is soft, and now I'm very suspicious that the stringers may be shot also. However, after doing a "tap" test on easily accessible stringers, I have some hope. Given the wear on the rest of the topsides, this may be one of the times when the floor rots from the top down. I picked this up in Montana, and I believe she has spent most of her life out of the water as a trailerable, with at least a few of those years spent outside, uncovered. I provide this info because I'm currently contemplating parting her out vs. restoration.
Which brings me to the root of my question: We've had her out twice, and now know that she runs, and is a lot of fun, but she needs some work to be trustworthy on the water. The Primary bearing (11013, ussually the gimbal, but Not gimbal on the 270, as I've just learned) is shot, the baffles need replaced, and the outdrive takes on water. More importantly, when at rest, she starts to flood (bilge pump doesn't work either!). When I pulled her out last Friday, the bilge drained through the exhaust baffle. I've read here that it's possible (although not recommended, with possible dire consequences) to run without an exhaust baffle altogether. Which leads me to believe that I have a leak in my exhaust manifold? Yet, I've read elsewhere that disconnecting the exhaust baffle can sink a boat.
So I'm currently facing the dilemma of making the necessary repairs and covering the upholstery so she's not as embarrassing, and getting some use out of her this summer, with a potential floor and upholstery restore this winter, vs. parting her out on ebay and craigslist, and finding a "not-quite-so-project" boat. If an exhaust manifold is on the "must repair" list, that may just be the tipping point. But I have yet to figure out how big of a project that is.
I believe I already need to pull the engine for good access to the primary bearing, so perhaps it's easy to fix the manifold leak while I'm at it?
Arugh, decisions! She's an unbelievably fun boat for what I paid for her, but there's an awful lot of work to make her sea-worthy and presentable (plus, if the stringers ARE rotten... well then forget about it!!). I've got no shortage of projects either. Seems like funding a better boat by parting this one out may be the fastest and best way back onto the water.
Thoughts anyone?
 

Bondo

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I'm currently contemplating parting her out vs. restoration.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...... Use the money from the parts to buy a boat that doesn't have the Volvo motor in it,......

Like a Chevy powered Volvo,..... or a Chevy powered Mercruiser,......
 

Family runabout

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Huh, so your saying Mercruiser is made by Chevy? That gives me a lot more confidence in Mercruiser! AND... there are Volvo branded motors built by Chevy? Which ones?
I haven't spent much time with this one, just enough to know that parts are expensive. Is that still true for the ones that are Chevy built?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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No, he said get a mercruiser or volvo penta with a GM motor, vs your obsolete volvo motor in your volvo-penta setup

Your old bayliner is most likely needing a full restoration. The floor is always the last thing that rots, and 99.9% of all 80s and 90s bayliners will be rotten.

Tapping means nothing. Either get a moisture meter or make some test drills
 

Family runabout

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Ah. Yep, I totally misunderstood that post.
Boy, you all sure don't sugar-coat things around here! But, I guess I came here for a kick in the right direction.
Thank you though. I imagine your advice will save me from a lot of headaches.
So I guess I'll be in the market for a cheap used runabout or ski boat, soon hopefully. You say 99.9% of older Bayliners are rotting, do other brands tend to hold up any better? What's your recommendation for a "best buy" boat?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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if you want sugar coating, go to facebook or your local donut shop. you wouldnt want the doctor to sugar coat anything, would you. why would you want someone to sugar coat information on your boat

the "best boat" is one that isnt rotten. preferably under 10 years old. well-kept aluminum boats are a good buy. if the transom wood rots on an aluminum boat, it usually can be fixed in a weekend.

you may want to read this: https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...52-perspective-of-fiberglass-boat-design-life

things to stay away from:
OMC anything
Ford powered anything
volvo motors
80-90's bayliners

and unless you want a project, stay newer than the design life of the product. yes, there are some boats that have no wood in the structure, for these, your looking at boats manufactured in the last 15 years or less. also, any fiberglass boat under $10k should be considered a project...... and under $5k, should be considered a starting point for a restoration

you dont run out and buy a 30 year old kia for a daily driver and rely on it...... same goes for a 38 year old Bayliner

However should you decide you love the boat and want to rebuild it, we will help

start here https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information and read link 14 in its entirety and watch all the video, then 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b

Then you pull the drive, then pull the motor and fire up the tools

the hull restoration will be between $2500 and $3500
if you have interior work, assume $2000
then for the motor, assume $1500 in parts and for the drive a minimum of $500 for seals, etc.

or if you want to buy a new to you older boat, here is a checklist https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...eeding-help-buying-a-boat-a-buyer-s-checklist
 
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