boat identification/omc stern drive help

[bigsnack]

I was recently given a 1985 bayliner. It is a Capri 4v 5.0 Liter. I'm trying to figure out what the model of the boat and the stern drive is. I don't know the horsepower either. The omc stern drive model# is 983488. I don't have much knowledge of boats. The previous owner didn't have the stern drive completely lowered when he applied power. He chewed up some gears. I'm currently in the middle of repairing it, but don't know where to start. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: boat identification/omc stern drive help

Welcome to iboats.<br /><br />That would be referred to as a "Stringer". I believe the Cobras came out in 1987. The one advantage they had was that they swing way up. That's about the only one I can think of, except the steering is gear driven greatly reducing steering wheel torque. Those have ball gears at the transom to transfer the power to the drive. If they're more than half wore out, they need replacing. If you ever remove the drive, you have to make sure the ball gears align the way they were or the cogs wear off very quickly. There are 4 places to put gearlube in those. The upper and lower halves of the drive are separate and need draining and filling separately. There's also a place for gearlube where the shaft passes thru the transom. The fourth is the tilt gearbox on the outside on the portside. That should slip the drive to the Down position once enouth throttle is applied. There's a clutch pack similar to a motorcycle's in there. Water gets in and things rust up.<br /><br />A set of ball gears is going to set you back about 300 bucks. They had two different models as I recall. The 400 and the 800. I believe anything with a V-8 got the 800.

 

[bigsnack]

Re: boat identification/omc stern drive help

Thanks for the information. The previous owner went to install new ball gears but for some reason he couldn't get the transom side one to seat all of the way. Or so he thought. He's not a boat mechanic either. He would try and lower the stringer, but it wouldn't go all of the way down. He said there would be a 1/4" gap by the guide pins. He thought the ball gears might have been machined wrong. That leads me to my next question. When you tilt the stringer down is there space between the upper and lower half or is it flush by the guide pins? I read it some where that it won't seat all of the way until you apply power. I don't know how true that is though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

 

[KaGee]

Re: boat identification/omc stern drive help

Bigsnack....<br /><br />WELCOME TO THE FORUM!<br /><br />That would be a STRINGER 800 you have there. When the drive is down it is seated flush. The two alignment pins should seat into the cups on the intermediate (transom) unit.<br /><br />Both ball gears should be almost flush with the bearing cup. Without a picture it's hard for me to understand exactly what you are talking about. If one or the other gear is protruding out, then someting is definetly amiss.<br /><br />You should probably invest in a manual before going any further.

 

[bigsnack]

Re: boat identification/omc stern drive help

Thanks for the help. If I have the factory service manual should I be able to change the ball gears. <br /><br />Is there anything I need to watch for when I'm changing them?

 

[KaGee]

Re: boat identification/omc stern drive help

The previous owner went to install new ball gears but for some reason he couldn't get the transom side one to seat all of the way. Or so he thought.

I do not understand that one at all. There are two types of ball gears. Pressed on and threaded nut.<br />The pressed on were not used in '85 and are extremely rare. I wonder if he somehow got the wrong gear?<br /><br />Anywhoooo.... The best way to do the job is a) pull the drive, b)pull the "intermediate" unit.<br />Bring both of them indoors and do a replacement of the gears, and a reseal. Kits are available from GLM to do the job.<br /><br />Be careful when pulling both shafts... the shimming is critical. You do not want to damage the shims on the bearing seal cups. You'll need a micrometer to measure their thickness and replace with new ones. <br /><br />The total reseal of upper, lower and intermediate units and ball gear and water pump replacement cost me around $300 in parts (including a new transom seal)<br /><br />Buy the book and review it well before attempting. It is a challenge.