boat stalling shifting out of neutral

d_tuck

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I have a 21' 1996 stingray 658zp with 5.7 magnum mpi + engine and bravo 3 outdrive. like stated above when I shift from neutral unless I stab it pretty good the boat will stall out. I replaced the iac valve and cleaned the throttle body that seemed to help quite a bit but I still cant shift out of neutral without looking live ive never drove a boat before. it does it worse once the boat is warmed up occasionally when it is cold I can shift smoothly. from what I have read there are no neutral safety switches on a bravo? and help would be appreciated
 

Bondo

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when I shift from neutral unless I stab it pretty good the boat will stall out.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Have ya examined the Contents of the fuel filter, for anything but clean fresh gasoline,..??
 

d_tuck

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I replaced the large filter/water separator at the beginning of the season. It wasnt bad. The boat did this at the end of last season also. There appears to be a small filter on a fuel line up top i guess is worth a shot. Ill see if i cant get it changed out before the weekend and keep anyone following posted
 

alldodge

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Serial numbers of the motor is always best

Being a 1996 and MPI it probably is a VST, but not 100% sure

There appears to be a small filter on a fuel line up top

Don't know what this filter would be could you post a pic?

When you clean the IAC, did you use soap and water or a non-caustic cleaner?
Did you clean the area where the IAC is installed?

Proably going to need to get the fuel pressure and the rail
 

d_tuck

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I replaced the iac. I cleaned the tb and where the iac mounts and replaced the o ring along with it. It wasnt soap and water i believe i used maf cleaner for the buildup on the tb. Ill work on getting pics. Serial number is 0f798063
 

d_tuck

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Not my engine i couldnt get a pic small enough to post but this looks identical. To the right of the manifold is what i believe may be another filter
 

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d_tuck

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$57 for that thing? Jeez, is it necessary or can i just do away with it and count on the large filter? Im going to see if i can cross reference to something a little cheaper
 

alldodge

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$57 for that thing? Jeez, is it necessary or can i just do away with it and count on the large filter? Im going to see if i can cross reference to something a little cheaper

IMO it can be done away with, but this also will take some new fittings or high pressure lines
 

d_tuck

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Well i poked a hole in it just to see if it makes a difference this weekend ill get new one ordered ebay has them around 35 bucks
 

alldodge

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Not a good idea to poke a hole thru. This can release any loose material into your injectors, and making a hole will also make particals that can clog an injector. The filer stops stuff smaller the a hair and the injector tips are very small
 

d_tuck

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I ended up removing the filter all together. I took it out yesterday and still no change
 

alldodge

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Need to get some fuel pressure readings.
Also try the paper clip and LED to see if there are any codes, doubt there are but need to check.

Go to radio shack or other online and get a 12V resistor LED. They get a paper clip. Install the paper clip and LED in the DLC connector, and turn ignition key to ON but don't start. If no codes you will see 14 flash X (pause) XXXX (pause)

DLC with LED code reader.jpg
 

d_tuck

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I may have some leds in the garage. I will keep you posted hopefully i can test tomorrow
 

alldodge

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The LED needs to be the resister type, otherwise it will pull to much current
 

d_tuck

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I have resistors to put inline with it. I assume it is a 0-5v signal ?
 

alldodge

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I have resistors to put inline with it. I assume it is a 0-5v signal ?

Always heard an read post saying 12V LED, 5V should work so ling as current is limited
 
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