Re: Bogging out
Check your fuel tank for trash, also the gas pickup tube in the tank, make sure it's not clogged up.
Tighten the clamps on your fuel line and make sure there's not leaking air.
Check the fuel line connectors on each end of the gas line for air leaks and finally make sure the primer bulb in the gas line is staying pumped up when hooked to the engine.
If the primer ball in the gas line is staying pumped up with the gas line disconnected from the engine the check valve in the primer bulb is malfuntioning and the primer bulb would need replacing!
Next I would recommend rebuilding the fuel pump, it's not expensive to do!
Disconnect the battery (FOR SAFTEY!).
Remove the fuel bowls from the carbs, one at a time with the gas line disconnected from the motor, there will probably be some fuel in each bowl so be prepaired to catch it in a little container.
Check for trash in each bowl, notice each float and inlet needle to see if they are moving freely and not sticking, push the float on each carb up with your finger, when closed the floats should be about level. While your there check the throttle and choke plates in the carb barrels to be sure there not sticking and are opening up properly.
If the float and inlet needles appear to be funtioning properly close up the carbs for now.
Clean any gas spills from removal of the carb bowls and wait awhile for the fumes to disapate!
While waiting check all engine ground wires and tighten, and any other wiring to be sure all connections are tight.
(WHEN THE GAS FUMES HAVE CLEARED), clean the battery posts on the battery and battery cable terminals. Connect the battery.
Make sure the battery is fully charged so the engine will crank over acceptablely.
Test each spark plug for a crisp blue spark! Follow the instructions in your manual.
Remember the flywheel is out in the open and rotating during the spark test procedure and you will want to keep you hands, clothing, hair, etc. clear of the flywheel!
The next step would be to test fire the engine and see the results of any repairs made following this procedure.
If started on the trailer make sure there is a good water supply to the engine and that the motor is pumping water well before continuing!
When test running the boat on the water after changing the lower unit oil check the lower unit oil for water when you get back in!
Keep the first test run short in case you are getting some water in the lower unit!
Always use new washers on the flat head screws that go in the lower unit when changing the lower unit oil and use removable lock tight on the allen head screw in the bottom of the lower unit so it can be gotten out later! And never remove the pivot shaft screw!
These are some of the things I check each year as regular upkeep on my engine and it doesn't take a lot of time!
Hopefully there will be something here that will help you or at least point you in the right direction. Good Luck!
