Bottom painting while on a REALLY nice trailer with a zillion rollers

crazy charlie

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Got a nice Grady Adventure last year.Previous owner went for his lungs on the trailer.Really nice trailer,really nice wheels,really nicediamond plate fenders,a zillion really nice rollers,upright side guide bars with built in led lights,custom airbrushed logo spare tire cover.Waaaay nicer and Waaaay more expensive that I would ever have purchased.Now Im gonna need a way to bottom paint and 1- get the bottom actually painted since most of the bottom is covered with rollers 2-keep this Waaaay nice trailer paint free.Im thinkin crank up the tongue high and insert a 4x4 across with blocks and then crank the tongue down and see if it gives me exough gap to put a tarp over trailer and paint.Dont know what to with stern.Puzzled....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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take boat someplace where they pull it off the trailer to paint your bottom. last bottom job I helped someone with, it was actually less money for the marina to haul-out and paint than it was to buy the paint. (they get a volume discount)
 

JimS123

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Been there, done that. No way to properly paint on the trailer.
 

dingbat

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Painted my Grady 208 on a 24 roller trailer for a number of years.

Loosened up the winch and let it roll back 18”. Painted what I could. Waited for the plaint to dry then winched it back to the stop and painted the rest.

Used a roller so little to no drips.

My current boat, Grady 226 is easy. Never seen paint. Lives on the lift when in the water.
 

crazy charlie

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take boat someplace where they pull it off the trailer to paint your bottom. last bottom job I helped someone with, it was actually less money for the marina to haul-out and paint than it was to buy the paint. (they get a volume discount)

Time for you to invest in a good thermometer.Sounds like you have a fever and are hallucinating.
 

crazy charlie

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Painted my Grady 208 on a 24 roller trailer for a number of years.

Loosened up the winch and let it roll back 18”. Painted what I could. Waited for the plaint to dry then winched it back to the stop and painted the rest.
thanks Ding,I thought of that way too.I dont think I would be comfortable rolling it that far with a 200hp on the back.I assume you had motor down with skeg on the ground or on piece of wood to stabilize??
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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I dont think I would be comfortable rolling it that far with a 200hp on the back.I assume you had motor down with skeg on the ground or on piece of wood to stabilize??
Nope. The boat is front heavy. Just hooked the trailer to the truck. Isn’t going anywhere.

in reality, you only need to roll it back the diameter of the rollers plus a bit for good luck. A foot would probably do
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Time for you to invest in a good thermometer.Sounds like you have a fever and are hallucinating.

last time I went to help my buddy with his sailboat, the 3 cans of bottom paint and a tub of VE putty were $750 and the haul out was $280. however for $1000 the marina does a haul out and bottom paint. that is $30 less for the marina to do it.....and we didnt have to be covered in paint.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Easy solution. Drop the trailer tongue, and loosen winch rope. Put cement blocks under the transom, topping them with wood, say 1X4 or better. Lift tongue, and blocks will accept weight of transom and most of boat. Now put cement blocks under keel a few feet back from bow. Use a hydraulic jack behind the bow block, and a block of wood to jack up keel and block it with wood.

Adjust trailer tongue until boat is suspended above all rollers. Line rollers with plastic, tape waterline of boat and have at it.
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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Easy solution. Drop the trailer tongue, and loosen winch rope. Put cement blocks under the transom, topping them with wood, say 1X4 or better. Lift tongue, and blocks will accept weight of transom and most of boat. Now put cement blocks under keel a few feet back from bow. Use a hydraulic jack behind the bow block, and a block of wood to jack up keel and block it with wood.

Easier said than done with Grady SeaV2 hull.

Constant variable dead rise. ~ 45- 22 degrees. No horizontal surface on the entire hull. Can be done with adjustable boats stands, but not as simple as stacking cinder blocks and pallets.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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That hull doesn't have corners at the transom? It doesn't have a vee at the center under the bow?

gee, you could always cut vee blocks and block the center of the transom, plus the two outside corners< I would think....
 
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