Bravo 1 impeller

johnhenry3

Cadet
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May 14, 2012
Messages
25
Hi All:

I want to replace the impeller on my 2000 Bravo 1, and iBoats lists just one such impeller. I thought there were two different types.

My manual does not state a part number, and I want to ascertain I get the right one. As a little background, I just purchased this boat, and although it seems very well maintained, I thought it a good idea to replace the impeller before any water runs through the closed water cooling system, as I have heard of horror stories of the bits and pieces that can clog the block ports, thermostat and hoses.

Can someone ascertain the correct part #? Thanks, John
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

Bravo drives do not have raw water pumps in them, they are engine mounted. Only the Alpha drives had pumps in the drive.

Look up your impeller KIT (you need the gaskets) for whatever engine you have.
 

johnhenry3

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May 14, 2012
Messages
25
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

Hi Don:

Thank you. I understand that. The pump is on the starboard side, fore. Where do I look up the kit and gaskets (2000 7.4 mpi)?
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Aug 31, 2004
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62,321
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

Hi Don:

Thank you. I understand that.

Silly me, since the title said Bravo I impeller, I assumed you meant an impeller for a Bravo I outdrive :facepalm:

First thing you need is a serial number for your engine. Merc changed pump styles in 2000, and you may not have a 2000 engine.
 

johnhenry3

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May 14, 2012
Messages
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Re: Bravo 1 impeller

silly me, since the title said bravo i impeller, i assumed you meant an impeller for a bravo i outdrive :facepalm:

First thing you need is a serial number for your engine. Merc changed pump styles in 2000, and you may not have a 2000 engine.

l682098
 

johnhenry3

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May 14, 2012
Messages
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Re: Bravo 1 impeller

To put it more succinctly: What link (where do I look up the correct part #)? Is 18-3061 the correct kit (impeller and one O ring) for a 2000 7.4 mpi (#l682098)? Thanks.
 

Pete104

Lieutenant
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Apr 30, 2011
Messages
1,439
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

If your that concerned, why wouldn't you replace the impeller AND housing? 46-807151a14 Don't do SIERRA!

Hey FT, you were watchin!
 

johnhenry3

Cadet
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
25
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

1.If I'm "that concerned"? Everywhere I read it states to replace the impeller annually. Am I reading the wrong posts?

2. Why would I replace the housing is well...I thought only the impeller (and O ring) wears?

3. Why not Sierra...that's what they sell here in IBoats? I would imagine OEM is generally preferred, but at 2-4 times the cost of non OEM.

Please enlighten. Thanks.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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18,150
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

FWIW - The sea water impeller is worth checking every 50 engine hours and replacing at 100 hour intervals (unless it looks really good).

I added a sea water strainer to the intake hose that leads to the raw water pump. It has vastly improved the longevity of the impeller and avoided down stream clogs at the oil cooler, etc.

So at the last 100 hour interval, when I replaced the impeller, that 'old' one looked like 'new'. I keep it as a spare. Also, I would not be afraid of Sierra brand versus OEM on this part . . . I have used both with equal success.
 

johnhenry3

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May 14, 2012
Messages
25
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

Thanks for the reply tpen. That time frame is what is recommended. I have not heard bad things about Sierra...although I have about Teleflex (don't know if it's true...maybe just an unhappy camper).

I just purchased this boat, it has 400 hours, looks very well maintained, has alwys been in freshwater, and will always be in freshwater under my watch. I am at least inspecting the impeller, as I have not run it yet, and if there is some debris there, I was going to clean it all out before water pushes it (if present) into the ports and causes blockage.

Is the strainer just a standard part?
 

tpenfield

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Re: Bravo 1 impeller

Is the strainer just a standard part?

There are some aftermarket strainers that you can Google and purchase online. I purchased a "Sherwood" brand, which I would advise against, as the clear bowl kept cracking. There are some other brands that are more durable.

You will also need to buy the hose fittings & clamps, but you can usually find those locally. The key is to get a strainer and associated fitting that is the same size as the intake hose (coming from the transom assembly to the sea water pump). As I recall, it is around 1" or 1-1/4" , but you will want to measure the I.D. of the current hose to make sure.

I had a tough time finding room for the strainer, as the engine bay on my boat is fairly tight. You may have a similar issue with the 454 engine. I ended up hanging the strainer from the water fitting on the starboard exhaust manifold. It wasn't my first choice, but it works out fine.
 

HT32BSX115

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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

1.If I'm "that concerned"? Everywhere I read it states to replace the impeller annually. Am I reading the wrong posts?

But that's not "everywhere" the rest of us read ;)





FWIW - The sea water impeller is worth checking every 50 engine hours and replacing at 100 hour intervals (unless it looks really good).


Also for what it's worth....... Here's what Mercruiser recommends........ at http://www.mercurymarine.com/servic...tenance/faqs/mercruiser/?category=maintenance

How often should my seawater pump impeller be serviced?

Every 300 hours or 3 years, whichever comes first.


BUT I change mine every 2 years or so......:rolleyes:
 

gator1953

Recruit
Joined
Jul 23, 2010
Messages
4
Re: Bravo 1 impeller

I just finished installing on my 496 mag. I opted for a stainless steel aftermarket pump but the repair kits offered using s/s wear plates work well. The factory pump is brass/bronze and wears (scores) badly which leads to less than optimal cooling. I modified my pump by drilling out the six threaded holes so I could use s/s bolts and nuts . It made it much easier to assemble, at least in my boat. Grade F for the engineer that designed the bolts threading from the rear into the front as it makes it very difficult to remove and install the bolts.Now all I have to do is hold the bolt head with a 10mm wrench and easily tighten the s/s lock nuts from the front.
 
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