Bravo 2 outdrive removal - stuck

skunkedskippy

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Apr 30, 2017
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Trying to remove my bravo outdrive. I removed the the trim cylinders and the 6 nuts. Put a block of wood on top and pulled up on the outdrive but it won't break free. Sprayed some wd40 around the studs and between the mating surfaces but it still won't budge. Any other tips or tricks to this?

I also broke off the head of the torx screw that holds the middle port side washer. What does that do and do I absolutely need to extract it and put a new screw in?

 

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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I also broke off the head of the torx screw that holds the middle port side washer. What does that do and do I absolutely need to extract it and put a new screw in?

Well if you had used the manual you would have learned that is a bonding washer held in place by a screw and does not need to be touched to remove the drive.Drive must be in neutral for removal.
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/11/11a2r5x.pdf
Has the drive been off for any service?
Have you noticed water leaking into the bilge?
Have you ever replaced the gimbal bearing?
 

alldodge

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Put the trim cylinders back on and use the block of wood. Trim up and try to use wood that keeps the drive as far down as possible. you don't want the drive to far up befire the wood comes in contact from both sides
 

skunkedskippy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2017
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I also broke off the head of the torx screw that holds the middle port side washer. What does that do and do I absolutely need to extract it and put a new screw in?

Well if you had used the manual you would have learned that is a bonding washer held in place by a screw and does not need to be touched to remove the drive.Drive must be in neutral for removal.
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/11/11a2r5x.pdf
Has the drive been off for any service?
Have you noticed water leaking into the bilge?
Have you ever replaced the gimbal bearing?

Drive is in neutral.
Don't know if it's ever been removed before.
Have not noticed water leaking (from transom area).
Never replace a gimbal bearing. Never did any kind of sterndrive work.

The manual mentions removing the speedo cable but I don't see it, or know where it is on my drive.
 

skunkedskippy

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Apr 30, 2017
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Put the trim cylinders back on and use the block of wood. Trim up and try to use wood that keeps the drive as far down as possible. you don't want the drive to far up befire the wood comes in contact from both sides

Are you saying to use the trim up to break it free?

Make sense but it's currently trimmed up and won't trim down. Trim motor runs but the drive doesn't move. I figured I'd deal with that after I do the hull restoration and put the engine back in.
 

alldodge

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Are you saying to use the trim up to break it free?

Yes

Make sense but it's currently trimmed up and won't trim down. Trim motor runs but the drive doesn't move. I figured I'd deal with that after I do the hull restoration and put the engine back in.

Don't want to remove the drive with it up, but being you cannot trim down guess you have to deal with what you have. Place a block (maybe a 2x2) between gimbal ring and lower drive. Try to use it and push down with hope it will move

The speed-o tube can be seen with the drive lifted. It will be under the drive shaft
 

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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If the pump still runs and the oil is clean, reverse the 2 lines at the pump.there is a lot more pressure trying to raise a drive under power than trying to get it to lower/
The speedo works by a hose ,not a cable Everything you need is in the link I posted
 

skunkedskippy

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Apr 30, 2017
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Thank you all for your help. I found the speedo hose/tube/line with the extra details you posted.

I have a hard copy of the manual but the picture doesn't show (a newb like me) exactly where to find it. That might beg the question, "am I even capable of a project like this?" Probably not, but I will go through with it. I'll make some mistakes along the way, curse like a drunken sailor, contemplate selling the boat. But some day if/when I get back on the water it will be that much sweeter knowing I did it myself.

I'll try your suggestions and report back.
 

muskyfins

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Jun 7, 2012
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579
You won't see the cable until you break it free. Just a half inch or so and then disconnect it.


Dammit....I was talking about the shift cable. Sorry.

Yes as AllDodge said, the speedo tube is a twist lock into what i would call the "front" of the anti-cav plate. Between the gearcase and bell housing.
 

skunkedskippy

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Apr 30, 2017
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Some actual progress today! Disconnected the speedo and got the outdrive "unstuck" using the block of wood method. Then I had some fluid drip out - gear lube I'm assuming. Should I have drained it first or do I have a leak?

 

Bt Doctur

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/could just be the "dribble valve" you`ll know if you have a leak by finding gear oil in the bellow
 

alldodge

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The lube leak is normal for a little to leak out as the drive is removed while the male/female connector separates. It will leak more if the vales do not completely separate, the vale is held open

b21.jpg
 

skunkedskippy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2017
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Just a quick update FYI. Got the outdrive off and set it on this awesome roller stand I made.

And the "leak" stopped leaking.

 

skunkedskippy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2017
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Uh... not sure what's up with Photobucket but I assure you that my stand is indeed awesome.
 
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