Breaker Points Adjustment on a 1976 Evinrude 15HP

[chevysam41]

Hello All,

I decided to do a full ignition overhaul on my 76 Evinrude 15 (since everything on the motor is still 40 YO OEM...:lol. I think everything else is good to go, but I'm having difficulties getting the points set correctly. I initially installed the points and set the gap to .020 with the breaker shoe at the "set" mark on the cam. Put the flywheel back on and checked the timing with a volt meter. Timing was off on both cylinders, so I adjusted the points to make sure the points were opening between the marks on the armature plate (with the motor in forward gear at WOT). This timing corresponds to "8" on the cam. Timing is now fixed.

The problem is, as the crank rotates and the breaker shoe is aligned with "set" on the cam, the breaker gap increases from .020 around 0.025", which is too large. I've done a bit of research online and it looks like most points on older outboards have two screws securing it to the armature plate (an anchor and an adjustment screw). However, the ones for at least 1976 only have one screw securing it to the armature plate. If I loosen this screw and adjust the breaker to a .020" gap, then it throws off the timing, and vice versa.

My question is once I've adjusted the timing, how do I set the point gap without throwing off the timing? The only other way of adjusting this that I see is a spring tension screw on the side of the breaker...which I thought was supposed to be left alone. Am I wrong?

Also, I see there is a piece of fiber that is supposed to keep the cam lubed and prevent premature breaker shoe wear. Mine is dry as a bone - what is everyone using to re-saturate this? Standard motor oil?

I can post pictures if needed. Thanks in advance!

Sam

 

[F_R]

How are you setting it with a meter? Are you using the flywheel or are you using the timing fixture? Whatever, the whole purpose of using a timing fixture is it is more accurate. Setting them at .020" will get them "close enough", but using the timing fixture gets them right on the money. That may of may not result in .020" gap. But remember, you are trying to improve over the gap method. So whatever the timing fixture says is correct, not the measured gap. After using the timing fixture, leave them alone. Resetting the gap undoes what you just did.

Yes, there is only one hold-down screw. As for the wick, the best lube is what a new one is pre-saturated with. Otherwise a drop of oil will work. Do not over oil it.

 

[Mohawkmtrs]

Setting the points with a feeler gauge gets the timing "in the ballpark", using the meter gets the timing exact.

If you used the meter method, just set and forget.

I use 3-in-1 oil for the wick.

 

[chevysam41]

F_R:

I have been using the marks on the flywheel to adjust. Sounds like I misinterpreted something. If I understand correctly, it doesn't matter what the gap is at "set" as long as the points open up within the gap on the armature plate?

 

[F_R]

That is correct

 

[chevysam41]

Thank you very much! This forum is very helpful!