Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

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I have no idea how this little 35 ran at all. '82 35ELCND Grounds were fried into tatters, the 20 amp fused circuit to starter solenoid was fried-fuse intact, choke solenoid circuit smoked, a red lead on the starboard terminal block tattered. a grey wire to the same terminal block was the same. When cleaning this up, every wire that had broken insulation, down to the last one was badly corroded, even 1 to 2 feet back of the break. I wire brushed as much of the corrosion off as I could. The copper inside was brittle, crumbled to the touch. When I did get back to solid but corroded wire, even after appempting to clean the wire, rosin core solder wouldn't take. I had to use paste flux to get the solder to bite. The choke solenoid is burned up, melted plastic inside has encased the rod return spring. Now I've got 3 wires left that were burned or corroded in two and I'm not sure where they go. I bought this motor used, as is. It ran and ran well, I'm still not sure how. Under the cowling it's clean with hardly any wear anywhere. But the zerks haven't seen grease since the Carter administration. The guy I bought it off of had pretty much stuffed it onto a bass boat then gave up on the project. He had just put a new OMC starter switch on it, claims the old one quit. From what I've seen, it looks like some terminals got crossed at the starter switch. My problem is two-fold.

Seloc (not the most helpful publication as pertains to wiring, no schematics, no color code charts) states that the electric choke should activate when the starter button is pushed IN. Right now, there is 12 volts current to the choke solenoid with the switch in the ON position, not in the crank position, just ON. That might explain why the choke solenoid died. It also might explain the tattered wiring.
I need to find which of the 3 parted wires feeds this solenoid. I think it's the purple one. Yay?? Nay?? Then I need to find which lug on the 6 lug switch is hot when the switch is pushed in. I've got an old solenoid from a 35 parts motor that ohms out right, will test it tomorrow. How much voltage does this solenoid get? I was trying to find the hot lug with button pushed in and came across a lug that supplies 5 volts. Is this for the gauges? Also, the OMC tach is disconnected. 3wires coming out of the back of it. Again, Seloc is no help here. What do I need to hook the tach to to get it working again? I got the boat, motor and trailer cheap. Now I know why. I'm confident I've got a solid little motor once I get this wiring cleaned up. I haven't started it since we test ran it at idle, I wanted to get it home and check it out first. Should be able to run it tomorrow, put it in the river by wednesday. Help with these 3 last wires is appreciated. They thread down the lower starboard side of the motor, not up into the the igniton, one is grey, one is purple, one is red. I'm pretty sure the red one goes on the terminal block with another red. I looked at Ken Cook's site. Jeez, 90 bucks for a manual? But, I may be forced to do just that, this Seloc book has a lot of good stuff in it, but nothing on wiring. Thanks in advance. KR
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

the ken cooke manuals are worth the money, wish i had the correct one to scan for you, but i don't. something major cause that problem. must have been a wrong fuse. i know a guy years ago, blew a fuse on his truck in the woods hunting, used a nail, burnt the truck up, on the highway coming home.
 

rebuilt

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

The only fuse I found was a 20 amp buss style shortie, in a factory, waterproof boot. It was intact. Maybe one problem led to more? I don't think the choke solenoid should stay hot. Seems like it should release when the starter button is released. The 35 is a thrown on motor to this Mongoose bass boat. He had a 70 on it at one point. From some other booger rigged stuff I've seen on this boat, this guy didn't care much about details. I do. I plan to use this motor to get some serious fishin done off the coast of NC. With family aboard, and a couple of miles out, "I thought I could get away with that" won't cut it. Seatow is not how I plan to get home. I plan to strip the Mongoose and build up my little Hurst tri-hull. The Hurst is 150 lbs lighter, and has some other features I like better that the bass boat. I'm debugging the motor and controls, so when I switch over, I won't have any problems. Thanks. I've read zillions of posts, and your name keeps coming up as a reliable source. You've helped me quite a bit. Not to puff you up, just credit where credit is due. KR
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

i've never hit this problem, is why i'm so interested. something had to go really haywire to burn everything up. the 20 amp fuse is the ingition circuit. and i don't have a manual for it. going to the marina today i'll ask there. the only other thing i can think of is it ran really hot and melted the insulation. have you check compression with a pull rope. might be a good idea, before you put anymore into it.
 

rebuilt

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

Hey TD! I found it. At least part of it. Turns out there are two purple wires to the ignition switch. One has a white tracer on it. The other is straight purple. The purple wire is hot when the switch is on.He had the two crossed. The trace wire is the real choke wire. The purple wire goes to a non functional connector in the harness main connectorunder the cowl. He had hot to the choke solenoid all the time. I just put it back together, put it on the muffs and it runs great. Idled for about 10 mins. Filled a cooler with water and slid it under the prop, it just did cover the water intake. With the muffs on, and the cooler full, I ran it up to wot for a couple of seconds. (That's all it took to empty the cooler). Seems all is well. Hope to get it in the water by Wed. Thanks. 'Prolly be hearin from me again. KR
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

you never know what somebody else did. congrats. now order an impeller and get it in it, before you burn it up.
 

rebuilt

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

Impeller ordered. I just ran the compression on it. I was shocked. 170 upper
176 lower. Engine warm, both plugs out. This little jewel was mistreated at some point, as regards the wiring. It's basically new. Doin a seafoam decarb now. Then run compression again. I am tickled. KR
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

that seems high, but the higher the better and close is even better.
 

rebuilt

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

I thought it was kinda high myself. After seafoam decarb, an ounce or so in each cyl, let it set for 15 min or so, a couple of oz in a spray bottle, the rest in about 3/4 gal gas, run it for about 15 mins, periodic sprays in the carb throat, it evened dead out at 176 each. My compression gauge is a Milton, so I trust it. Looks like this motor did a lot more sitting than running, for an
'82. Looks like I've lucked into an almost new motor someone else had given up on. I ordered the impeller and a couple of Champion plugs from Laing's. That should do it. Now I'm gonna get ambitious and run 2 35's on my 15' tri-hull. It oughta be a hoot. Spanish, Kings, Blues, Trout, Reds, winter Stripers off the cape, I have waited soooooo long to get off of the bank and go get'em. Thanks again. KR
 

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Re: Burned, tattered, corroded wiring.

Those numbers are high. I double checked to compression guage. I guess that last fall off of the fender did it. Even a Melton can only take so much. It zeros at a 14lb reading. So take 14lb from the 176. 162. Much more believable. There was another site I used to like a lot when I built my computer. It was http://www.tomshardware.com/
A shameless plug. Fantastic forum. Knowledgeable people-(after a fair amount of reading to find out who is who). Much like this one. Thanks again tashasdaddy. KR
 
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