I have no idea how this little 35 ran at all. '82 35ELCND Grounds were fried into tatters, the 20 amp fused circuit to starter solenoid was fried-fuse intact, choke solenoid circuit smoked, a red lead on the starboard terminal block tattered. a grey wire to the same terminal block was the same. When cleaning this up, every wire that had broken insulation, down to the last one was badly corroded, even 1 to 2 feet back of the break. I wire brushed as much of the corrosion off as I could. The copper inside was brittle, crumbled to the touch. When I did get back to solid but corroded wire, even after appempting to clean the wire, rosin core solder wouldn't take. I had to use paste flux to get the solder to bite. The choke solenoid is burned up, melted plastic inside has encased the rod return spring. Now I've got 3 wires left that were burned or corroded in two and I'm not sure where they go. I bought this motor used, as is. It ran and ran well, I'm still not sure how. Under the cowling it's clean with hardly any wear anywhere. But the zerks haven't seen grease since the Carter administration. The guy I bought it off of had pretty much stuffed it onto a bass boat then gave up on the project. He had just put a new OMC starter switch on it, claims the old one quit. From what I've seen, it looks like some terminals got crossed at the starter switch. My problem is two-fold.
Seloc (not the most helpful publication as pertains to wiring, no schematics, no color code charts) states that the electric choke should activate when the starter button is pushed IN. Right now, there is 12 volts current to the choke solenoid with the switch in the ON position, not in the crank position, just ON. That might explain why the choke solenoid died. It also might explain the tattered wiring.
I need to find which of the 3 parted wires feeds this solenoid. I think it's the purple one. Yay?? Nay?? Then I need to find which lug on the 6 lug switch is hot when the switch is pushed in. I've got an old solenoid from a 35 parts motor that ohms out right, will test it tomorrow. How much voltage does this solenoid get? I was trying to find the hot lug with button pushed in and came across a lug that supplies 5 volts. Is this for the gauges? Also, the OMC tach is disconnected. 3wires coming out of the back of it. Again, Seloc is no help here. What do I need to hook the tach to to get it working again? I got the boat, motor and trailer cheap. Now I know why. I'm confident I've got a solid little motor once I get this wiring cleaned up. I haven't started it since we test ran it at idle, I wanted to get it home and check it out first. Should be able to run it tomorrow, put it in the river by wednesday. Help with these 3 last wires is appreciated. They thread down the lower starboard side of the motor, not up into the the igniton, one is grey, one is purple, one is red. I'm pretty sure the red one goes on the terminal block with another red. I looked at Ken Cook's site. Jeez, 90 bucks for a manual? But, I may be forced to do just that, this Seloc book has a lot of good stuff in it, but nothing on wiring. Thanks in advance. KR
Seloc (not the most helpful publication as pertains to wiring, no schematics, no color code charts) states that the electric choke should activate when the starter button is pushed IN. Right now, there is 12 volts current to the choke solenoid with the switch in the ON position, not in the crank position, just ON. That might explain why the choke solenoid died. It also might explain the tattered wiring.
I need to find which of the 3 parted wires feeds this solenoid. I think it's the purple one. Yay?? Nay?? Then I need to find which lug on the 6 lug switch is hot when the switch is pushed in. I've got an old solenoid from a 35 parts motor that ohms out right, will test it tomorrow. How much voltage does this solenoid get? I was trying to find the hot lug with button pushed in and came across a lug that supplies 5 volts. Is this for the gauges? Also, the OMC tach is disconnected. 3wires coming out of the back of it. Again, Seloc is no help here. What do I need to hook the tach to to get it working again? I got the boat, motor and trailer cheap. Now I know why. I'm confident I've got a solid little motor once I get this wiring cleaned up. I haven't started it since we test ran it at idle, I wanted to get it home and check it out first. Should be able to run it tomorrow, put it in the river by wednesday. Help with these 3 last wires is appreciated. They thread down the lower starboard side of the motor, not up into the the igniton, one is grey, one is purple, one is red. I'm pretty sure the red one goes on the terminal block with another red. I looked at Ken Cook's site. Jeez, 90 bucks for a manual? But, I may be forced to do just that, this Seloc book has a lot of good stuff in it, but nothing on wiring. Thanks in advance. KR