Burned up the #2 piston....again (Revisted)

Reggie08

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I apologize for the long post, but I want to give a brief history of this motor and everything that's been done up to this point.

I picked up this motor (1985 'Rude 90hp E90TLCOS) for free from a guy who said I could have it if I rebuilt it for personal use. The motor had burned the #2 piston. It was initially thought the high speed jet had clogged. At the time, the motor had 140hp carbs and exhaust on it. I rebuilt the powerhead and put new rings, pistons, wrist pins and bearings, rod bearings, t-stats, seals and gaskets on the powerhead. I also changed out the block because the original was bored .030 over and had some substantial scoring on the cylinder walls. Current block is bored .030 over on the #1, 2 and 4 cylinders and .040 on the #3 cylinder. Additionally I replaced the 140hp carbs and exhaust with the 90hp carbs and exhaust. Carbs were thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt and the high speed jets were cleaned as well. Spark was strong on all four cylinders and link-n-sync was done as well. Lastly, I've been using the stock Champion spark plugs gapped at .030.

During break-in, I've been running a 25:1 mix (bypassing the VRO). I had about 4 hours of run time on the motor following the rebuild. Up to this point, I've been checking my plugs following every trip for any signs the motor might not be running right. Friday night I checked the plugs and noticed the #2 and 4 plugs were black while the #1 and 3 were a golden brown. I attributed the black/fouled plugs to the higher oil mixture and a carb that was possibly running rich. The motor had been running great up to this point. There were a few hiccups along the way that I was able to fix but overall, I was happy with how the motor was performing.

Saturday afternoon, we were heading back to the boat ramp running at about 4200rpms. We'd been at that speed for approx 60-90 seconds. Prior to this, I'd been running the motor at about 2500rpms for a couple of minutes as we were trying to find our way out of some flooded timber. During this time I was running at 2500rpms, the motor would act like it was flooded. I could throttle up the motor briefly to clear it then it would run fine. Throttle it back and it would act like it was flooding again. About half-way back to the boat ramp, the motor started to lose power. I pulled the throttle back and checked for a pee-stream. It was putting out a strong pee-stream. Pushed the throttle back up but it started to lose power again only this time I heard a knocking or ticking sound. We slowly made our way back to the ramp (doing around 1800rpms), put the boat on the trailer and called it a day. I started pulling the plugs to check for something major. The #1 and 3 plugs looked good. The #2 was caked in aluminum :( Yesterday morning I pulled the head off to take a look inside the cylinder and the #2 piston was burned up. The cylinder walls still look and there seemed to be plenty of fuel/oil mix in the cylinder. The #4 piston was good and the plug appeared to be just fine.

Given the #2 piston burned up (again), I'm wondering if there isn't something else wrong I missed that caused it to do this. Two possibilities that come to me are the VRO/fuel pump isn't working properly causing the #2 cylinder to run leaner or the coil is possibly causing the plug to fire hotter (which I doubt since I haven't heard of that being possible but you never know). Before I replace this piston I need to make sure I have all the bugs worked out first since I obviously don't want to have to replace the #2 piston again every 5 hours :rolleyes:

What should I look for when I start to disassemble this motor again? I'm going to break open the carbs and clean/rebuild them again but what else could cause the #2 piston to burn up again? It did the exact same thing it did to the previous owner.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

if i'm not mistaken you have 2 carbs, one for 2 cylinders, so that would rule out the oil mixture. could be blocked cooling to that cylinder.
 

Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

I do have two carbs. At one point the float in the top carb was mis-adjusted (set too high) but I fixed that problem a couple of weeks ago and since then it ran great.

I'll look into the water cooling as well. It could be possible there's an obstruction somewhere. However, my pea sized brain tells me the entire cylinder would get hot, wouldn't it??

Here are a couple of pictures I meant to post earlier but ran out of time.
 

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Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

One other tidbit of info followed by a question(s).

I replaced some of the fuel lines. When I say "some", I mean I replaced the ones to and from the fuel filter (filter was cleaned out as well with no obstructions). I also replaced the larger fuel lines from the pump to the carbs. I did NOT however, replace the smaller (1/4" od) lines which appear to be vacuum lines. Nor did I replace the clear lines which I believe were for the oil tank. Additionally, I did not replace the small lines coming from the fuel primer.
 

Dhadley

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

What did you set the timing at? What spark plugs are you using?
 

BeerMonkey

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

i dont know much abou tboat motors but i had a similar problem on my snowmobile i rebuilt the motor from a melted piston i repaced almost everything and same thing happend again it ended up being a bad crank seal and it was and it was leaning out the end piston, do boat motors have a similar setup
 

Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

What did you set the timing at? What spark plugs are you using?


The throttle advance timing was set at 4 BTDC and the WOT timing was set at 24 BTDC using J. Reeves' method. I wasn't able to confirm the WOT timing with the motor in the water since I was still in the break-in period. That was something I was planning on doing once I was thru the break-in period. Spark plugs were the recommended Champion spark plugs (QL77JC4's I believe but I'll have to double check which ones exactly when I get home). I know they were the ones recommened in my OMC service manual :redface:
 

Willyclay

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

You replaced the original block, carbs, pistons and exhaust tube and it resulted in the same damage to #2 using double oil. As I read your post, the only things left from the original powerhead are the front crankcase half, reeds, transfer covers and cylinder heads. This is a puzzlement since it is the identical problem with what amounts to a different powerhead!
 

Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

That's pretty much it in a nutshell.

The front crankcase half was replaced however. What it essentially amounted to was I replaced the front and back halfs of the crankcase but reusing items such as the flywheel, intake manifold, bypass covers, powerpacks, etc. The crank and rods are from the original motor but the bearings, wrist pins, pistons, rings, etc were all replaced.
 

Dhadley

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Good choice on plugs. You'll need to verify the timing before you put it on plane. Be sure to check timing on #2 since the problem seems to stay there. Since the motor still runs I'd do it now before putting in another piston.
 

Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Will do. I'll get a new plug tonight and start it up on the muffs. What should the timing be set at exactly so I know what I'm looking for?
 

Dhadley

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

You'll need to back it down the ramp so you can check wot timing. Check #1 first then see if #2 is different. If you set it statically it should be about right. You don't want to go over 28*. #1 & #2 should be identical.

#2 may not be marked on your flywheel so you'll have to find top dead center and then measure for 28* and mark that. If I remember correctly the space between teeth is 2*. But double check that. I usually mark out TDC, 24, 26 & 28 degrees.
 

Dhadley

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

In fact, while you're doing it mark all 4 cylinders and then when you run it check all 4. Number each TDC line (2, 3 and 4). As you check each one make sure only that number shows with the timing light. If you're checking #2 and you see another number you know you've found the cause.
 

Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Just curious, but is there any chance I can damage the motor worse than it is now by doing this? :redface:

Thanks for the info as well! Probably a stupid question but I'll find TDC for each piston using a piston stop tool and the same method for finding TDC for #1, correct? :confused: (I'm learning as I go :redface: )
 

Dhadley

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

If I were doing it I'd probably move the timing stop screw in about 4 turns. That will lower the timing about 4*. We're really just going to run it long enough to see what the timing is.

You probably won't have to find TDC for #1 since you just did that when you set the timing pointer after the rebuild. (you did set the pointer, right?) We're only looking for TDC on the others because they aren't marked on the flywheel. You'll end up with 4 TDC marks 90* from each other.
 

Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

I did set the timing pointer when I did the link-n-sync per the OMC manual instructions :)

Since I'll turn the timing stop screw in 4 degrees, I'll be looking for 24 degrees WOT then, correct?
 

Dhadley

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Yes, but we're not looking for any specific number. We're looking to see if there's a difference. The reason for backing off the timing is so we don't cause any further damage. We're looking for what caused the piston damage. The piston damage is a result, not a cause.
 

Reggie08

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Gotcha! I'll have to get to it tomorrow since my wife wants to run some errands this evening. I'll post the results though when I get them
 

reeldutch

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

you by passed the vro system. and used 25:1 premix. did you cap of the oil inlet airtight?

when you unplugged the Vro did you check your overheat alarm was still active?

did you replace the waterflow deflectors in the block?
they swell up and do cause waterflow restrictions.

just a thought
 

SKEETR

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Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

Re: Burned up the #2 piston....again

After the first two hrs of break in you can hit WOT for a few mins at a time. Long enough to get the timing dialed in at the ramp after a warm up.
 
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