So I found the boat I want to buy and am looking for some advice on how I can seriously check out the motor before purchasing it to make sure I don't get a "lemon".<br /><br />It is a 65HP MERC. "650 Four" outboard.<br /><br />The owner drifted into a "clay bar" in a lake and it damaged the prop. The owner then had to drive it all the way across the lake and said it was vibrating. Before I check the motor out - is there any other damage that may have happened from hitting the bottom or driving it with a broken prop? Any physical damage I should immediatley look for on the boat or motor?<br /><br />Since it has a damaged prop, there will be no way to go for a "test ride". I found an aluminum SOLAS PROP here on iboats for $85 which is a good deal considering I was quoted $200 from the local boat shop. <br /><br />I would really like to know what I can do to give the motor a thourogh inspection before I hand the cash over. I have a compression tester and will definitley check compression but don't know what it should be? <br /><br />I was told I should check the fluid? How do I do that? <br /><br />Is there anything else I should/can check? What about spark/electricity etc... Is there a test for that (aside from seeing if it sparks).<br /><br />What other things should I watch out for when buying a used outboard? <br /><br />THANKS IN ADVANCE TO ALL!!!
il mixture ratio, and whether the fuel in the boat is fresh (i.e., less than about 3 months old). If he cant tell you any of this information, he is probably not the principal operator/owner of the boat.<br />Ask if hes got a barrel or large trash can to make up a test-tank for the motor (note: a flush bell is NOT ENOUGH
more on this later).<br />Ask the guy just a few other detail-type questions to gauge his knowledge of and attention to his rig: What is the weight of the boat? The trailer tongue weight? Tire size and suspension type? A true and caring owner should be able to immediately and accurately answer ANY question you can imagine about his vessel.<br /><br />Still on the phone, ask what the boat comes with (i.e., VHF, fishfinder, radio, GPS and/or other electronics; PFDs, fire extinguisher, flares and other safety items; cover, bimini top, paddles, fenders, fishing gear, anchor, etc.). WRITE IT ALL DOWN and stick the list in your back pocket. Do not mention ANY of these items again until after the negotiations. You will pull that list out later and demand these items AFTER you have arrived at a final price for the boat, motor and trailer.<br />Ask the guy if hes got an hour or two to show you the boat (yes, it WILL take that long). An astute seller will now know that you are not just a looky-loo, but are a serious potential buyer. If he says Ive got tee-time at 9:30 or some such thing, set up another appointment for when he WILL have time. Do not worry that he might sell the thing to someone else before your appointment
you wouldnt have had time to properly assess the boat anyway. Remember, you are not in a hurry; it might take weeks (or even months) to find the right boat.<br /><br />Ask the guy if hed be willing to take you out for a water test if you like what you see. ANY HESITATION AT ALL to this request is an immediate negotiation-killerthe guy knows there is something seriously wrong with this boat.<br /><br />Ask him if he would take a personal check; this will put dollar signs in his eyes, and he just might say yes! Dont be insulted if the guy says he will only take a cashiers check (personally, I wouldnt take anything less!). If he says no, counter with would you take one just for a deposit? Most reasonable people would say yes to this; however, if he says no, get ready to stop at the ATM on your way over for about 1% to 2% of the value of the boat (be warned: you might never see this money again).<br />Finally, get the seller to specifically state something to the effect that this boat, trailer and motor is ready for use as is. This could become very important later.<br /><br />Now, find a website (or call an outboard dealer) to see if the motor serial number jives with the model, year and hp he told you it was. Also, find out what the idle and WOT rpms are supposed to be for this motor. Next, go to one of the boat valuation sites (I will not endorse any in particular), to get an idea of the value of the package. If the asking price is way off, this may be a red flagdepending on the motivation level. The best asking price is make an offer; this means that the guy has no idea what the boat is worth; he wants YOU to tell him. Also, he cant get insulted when you lowball him.<br /><br />You now have a starting price, which may or may not be in the same ballpark as the figure the seller is asking. You will make appropriate deductions from your starting price based on what you observe later.<br /> <br />You are almost ready to go look at the boat. Get your tools together:<br />· Tape measure<br />· Flashlight<br />· Bathroom scale (300+ lb capacity)<br />· Battery quick-charger/starter OR jumper cables OR a good battery<br />· Basic tool kit (wrenches/screwdrivers/sockets)<br />· Compression tester (cheap, yet CRITICAL!!!)<br />· WD-40 (in case you need to free something up)<br />· Camera (with film or, better yet, digital)<br />· Checkbook and ID OR ATM card<br />· Shop towel or rags (for wiping your hands)<br /><br />Some optional tools:<br />· Fuel can with a gallon or two of FRESH 50:1 mix gasoline/2-cycle oil<br />· An empty fuel can equal to the fuel capacity of the boat, and some funnels (if you have any reason to believe the fuel in the boat is NOT fresh)<br />· Large plastic trash can/barrel (for the test tank, if seller doesnt have one)<br />· A witness. Good witnesses include a good friend or a sibling. Poor witnesses include children, spouses, significant others, etc. The witness job is to look and listen, and not to speak<br /><br />And wear working clothes; you will be getting dirty.<br /><br />Inspecting the Boat<br />An obvious first check: make sure that the boat is properly represented. If the seller said it was a 115hp but it is really a 75hp, or that its an 18 but really is a 16, be very wary of the sellers capability for honesty
the boat still may be worth buying, but be sure to adjust your starting price accordingly, and that it is still the type/size of boat you want.<br />Does the motor fit the boat? The anti-cavitation plate should be about level with the bottom of the hull when the motor is trimmed fully down.<br />Was the boat really used twice a week, with no problems like the guy says, or has it been sitting idle for years? If any of the following applies, you dont know WHEN the boat was last run:<br />· Seller cant find the plug, keys, or registration/paperwork<br />· Trailer tires are deflated<br />· Battery drained/dead<br />· No fire extinguisher or discharged<br />· No hold-down straps in use (theyve been poached for other uses)<br /><br />A handy tip: if there are flares on the boat, check their expiration date. In the absence of proof to the contrary, assume the boat was last run about 2-3 years before that date.<br /><br />Hull:<br />Check the hull for the proper registration stickers and call numbers. (Note: No call numbers is a potential sign that this boat is stolen!) Get under the boat with your flashlight and check for unrepaired cracks/holes. Look also for repaired areas. Some small repairsespecially along the keel and/or chine line(s)are to be expected; any very large repairs, or roundish-shaped repairs in a smooth section of the underside (i.e., an obvious staving in) and you are GOING HOME NOW because you do not want this delaminating hull. If hes got some of those keel saver doo-hickeys on a boat of this type, they probably are covering up irreparable crush damage. Check for significant hooks and rockers. If you see these, go home
this boat will never handle right.<br /><br />Trailer:<br />Always perform a thorough inspection of the trailer. It is unbelievable how many people give only passing notice to trailer condition when buying a used boat. What are you planning to do, put this 2000+ lb behemoth on your roof-rack?<br /><br />While you are under the boat with your flashlight, check the following on the trailer:<br />· What kind of condition is it in? Does it really fit the boat? How poor a fit is it? If it is only a matter of adjusting rollers and bunk boards, this is no big deal. If it is obviously NOT the right trailer for this boat (e.g., trailer 3 shorter than the boat), OR if it has gaping rust-holes, deduct about $200-$1000 (depending on size and severity) from your starting price, because you will need significant repairs
and maybe even a whole different trailer
very soon.<br />· Is the axle bent? If so, deduct about $150-$200.<br />· Springs; if they are cracked, bent, or off the shackles this is about $75 deduction per spring.<br /><br />It is very possible that any of these trailer-related defects may cause you to want to walk. This is OK, and it depends on their severity and just how ready for use you need this rig to be (you do own a boatyard, right?).<br /><br />Get out your scale and verify the tongue weight. Is it appropriate to the size of boat, indicating a well-balanced and well-matched trailer / boat? Can your hitch handle it? If the boat is relatively small, hoist the tongue by hand and move the boat around. Does the trailer feel well-balanced? Are there flat spots on the tires indicating long-time idleness?<br /><br />Get up and check the following on the trailer (note, any problems here also indicate the boat hasnt been used in ages):<br />· Tires, wheels and bearings. If it needs new tires, deduct $25 to $75 per pair. Severely bent wheels and/or seized bearings are worth about $25-$75 per pair.<br />· Hitch. Get the guy to hitch up (his vehicle) to show that the hitch and jack work. A new jack is about $30-$75; a new hitch (including welding) is about $75-$100.<br />· Lights. Get the guy to run the trailer lights from his vehicle. If they dont work, thats another $25-$30. If he doesnt have the right hookup, then you know this isnt his boat OR he hasnt used the boat since he got that vehicle.<br />· Winch. Unwind a few turns and wind back up. Check all positions of the ratchet-locking mechanism. If the winch is busted, thats another $25-$75.<br />· License plate: Is it there? Does it have proper registration stickers?<br /> <br />IMPORTANT INTERJECTION: You will have been at the sellers place for only 20 to 30 minutes by now, and he will already know that you know what you are doing. He shouldnt dare try to BS you from this point forward.<br /><br />Motor:<br />If you have received ANY SIGN that the boat has sat unused, suggest replacing the fuel with what you brought, as the fuel in the boat is most certainly stale. Offer to take his old fuel off his hands (use it in your lawnmower).<br /><br />Make sure battery is good; if not, pull out your jumper cables (or other provision for electricity). Note: if battery is NOT fully charged and operational, assume its trash and deduct about $50 to $75.<br /><br />Take the cowling off. If there are cobwebs and such in there, this boat has sat idle for a LONG time. Remove the spark plugs and inspect them; they should look used (dry, blackish or grayish carbon deposits; a slight tanning discoloration on porcelain), but not fouled (wet, oily mess) or burned (whitish/grayish and/or a corroded look). If they are brand new and clean as a whistle, this is a sign that the seller may be trying to hide something. Look inside the cylinders with your flashlight; make sure there is no significant scoring of the cylinder walls. Check compression on each cylinder. If you dont know how, learn! I say again, CHECK COMPRESSION! You want no more than a 10-15 psi range among all cylinders, and of course you want a significant positive reading on each cylinder (this varies from model to model, but is usually between 75 and 125 psi). If compression is not good, RUN AWAY NOW!<br />If electricity is good but you cant crank to check compression, you might be able to hand crank with a pull-rope. It may be a wiring or starter issue, but you CANNOT buy an outboard without checking compression. If the starter hums or clicks but wont engage, deduct about $100 and assume it needs a new starter. If the starter will do nothing, assume the starter is bad AND that it needs a new solenoid (about $25) AND a new harness ($75-$150).<br />Inspect fuel lines for obvious leaks; if you see any, assume they will need replacing (deduct $25 plus your time). Check carburetors for fuel pouring out of the vent holes
if so, assume they will need a complete rebuild (and deduct about $25-$50 per carb).<br />Check the overall condition of the engine wiring
broken insulation and green corrosion means lots of YOUR time brushing and taping and/or replacing
deduct accordingly. It also means this guy didnt look at the engine much, didnt use water-displacer regularly on the engine block, and probably didnt lube the rest of the boat and trailer regularly, either.<br />A note about the wiring harness: galvanic corrosion is a problem on all boats; any boat over 10 years oldespecially if it has been used in saltwaterwill probably have rolls and rolls of electrical tape wrapped around the battery cables, harness and engine wiring. This is acceptable and is actually a sign that the owner cares!<br /><br />Check the controls
steer hard over full left to right to left again. It should be smooth and responsive, with little play, and a full turning arc to both sides. The steering cable end should show a coating of lube (and no rust!) when exposed. A new steering cable will cost $75-$100 plus LOTS of crappy labor. Check the shifter and throttle. RAM them back and forth with some force (pretend you are in a near-collision at sea, because some day you might be!) and check at the engine that the linkages are good. New control cables are $25 each plus LOTS of crappy labor. If the control box will not move the cables, this could be worth upwards of $150 to$200
and you will have to disconnect the linkage(s) and move them manually at the motor for any further testing.<br /><br />Check the condition of the propeller. A recondition will run $50-$75, and a new aluminum prop will be $75-$125. Stainless steel props cannot be reconditioned
a new S/S prop could range from $150-$500.<br />See if the skeg is broken off; if so, it can be replaced, but this is a $75 to $150 job.<br /><br />IMPORTANT NOTE: Dont be surprised to find that the boat has been found to actually be worthless by this point! At least half of all used boats will make it no further than this point in your inspection.<br /><br />Drain JUST A SMALL AMOUNT (maybe a half-ounce) of the lower unit oil into a paper cup or similar receptacle. If it is dark bluish or blackish, and not foamy, this is good. Check it for metal shavings (NOT a good thing to see!) If it is grayish and foamy, this means there is water leakage in the lower unit
and it might be time to WALK (unless youve got some damn good tools at home and are prepared to spend $300 or more if it needs a whole new lower unit). If the lower unit oil is clean, tan and new-looking, then this, like new spark plugs, is a sign that the owner is trying to hide something (unless he just replaced the lube for winter lay-up
which then turns this into a GOOD sign that the owner takes care of the motor). If there is no lower unit oil (Ive seen this!), WALK NOW
heaven knows how much damage has been done to the entire drive train.<br /><br />Now, break out your barrel and tilt the lower unit into it (a good time to check condition of power trim, if applicable
non-working power trim could be a deal buster, as it could cost thousands to repair/replace); fill with water to a few inches above the anti-cavitation plate and you have a test tank! (A flush fitting is NOT enough
you must put some strain on the prop AND you want to submerge the lower unit to check for leaks!).<br /><br />Prime the fuel system (if bulb wont get hard, deduct $25 for new external fuel lines) and start the motor
judge for yourself how hard or easy it is to start
everyone has their own feeling for what they can tolerate from a cold engine. After about 5-10 seconds, the water pump should spit a good stream of water out the tell-tale
if this does not occur, or it looks pathetically weak, it may simply need a new impeller or a flush with salt-away; however, it is TIME TO WALK
you DO NOT KNOW how long the water pump has been inactive, and what damage has been sustained by the engine in the past as a result.<br /><br />Idle the motor for about 5 minutes. Ensure the motor will shift into forward and reverse (and that the prop follows suit); rev up to check the throttle, but to no more than about 2500 rpmand then only briefly
you dont want to destroy the guys motor! (Note: If the boat has no (working) tachometer, deduct $50
this is a MUST HAVE). Look into the carburetor throats to ensure that the throttles are all moving synchronously.<br />Judge how well the motor idles
this is another subjective thing; however, a severe lope suggests a spark problem
be ready to do a spark test, and to deduct about $50 per bad spark for new coil(s).<br />Shut down and immediately restart
it should start EASY this time. Let the motor idle for another 5-10 minutes, then shut down. Is there a bunch of fuel floating in your test tank (that didnt come from identifiable leaks in the fuel lines)? If so, there could be a carb, manifold, or spark problem.<br /><br />Interior:<br />Let the motor cool for 20-30 minutes as you check the condition of the interior of the boat. You will have to be subjective as to the value of the appearance and condition of most interior items. Do note that boats over 10 years old will invariably have modifications or replacements (especially on wear items like seats, hatches, doors, and carpeting)
if these things were replaced with high-quality goods installed properly, you can be sure someone once cared about this boat; conversely, if it was all done with duct tape and used lumber scraps, you know this boat was treated like a Mustang Ranch worker. Take this time to snap many, many photos of the boat from all different angles, so that the seller cant take things off the boat later and claim they werent there.<br /><br />NOTE: your witness can be taking the pictures while you are inspecting; this can save you some time.<br /><br />Is all the hardware (cleats, railings, windshield, etc.) well and firmly attached? Are the seats good and sturdy? Seats take a pounding and must hold up. Busted seats will cost anywhere from $25 to $200 each to replace, depending on type and function.<br /><br />Is the flooring good and solid all over? Soft, spongy spots in the floor are an absolute deal-killer on a supposedly ready to use boat; it could be that you simply need to replace a few small sections of floor over a weekend
but it could also mean that the entire floor, stringers, subdeck foam, etc. needs replacing (i.e., weeks or months of work, potentially hundreds or thousands of dollars). DO NOT TAKE THE CHANCE!!!<br /><br />Does the electrical gadgetry (lights, horn, radios, bilge, etc.) work? Get up under the dashboard and check out the wiring, as any boat this age will likely have been at least partially rewired due to galvanic corrosion of the original wiring. Does the electrical system use fused switch panels, buss bars, color-coded wiring, proper weather-proof connectors, and wire ties to bundle wiring up neatly (an excellent sign of proper care by the owner)? Or does it look like a big tangle of multi-colored spaghetti (75% of used boats)? Improper electricals is a hassle, because you will constantly be draining the battery with stray currents. It is also UNSAFE because you dont want your navigation lights going out on you, or a fire, or whatever. You must adjudicate a deduction based on how much rewiring you think YOU will be doing (complete, of course! You are an electrician, arent you?).<br /> <br />Things to Re-Check:<br />Now the motor has cooled and it is time to re-check a few items. Are the spark plugs fouled now? If so, this indicates a problem in the fuel system. Drain another half ounce of lower unit oil and check it for foam and metal shavings. These items may not be killers, but they do mean the boat is NOT ready for use without some work (and/or money) on your part.<br /><br />By now, at least four out of every five used boats will have missed the cut.<br /><br /><br />On-the-Water Testing<br />There is one very important thing you dont yet know
will it float? This is what your witness is really for; again get the seller to reiterate that this boat is ready for use as is. This way, if the boat goes straight to the bottom (or explodes, or etc.) during your on-the-water test, you (with your witness) will have a good case when you are sued in small claims court by the seller.<br /><br />It is best to take your on-the-water test immediately; however, if scheduling dictates that it must wait for another day, offer a small, nonrefundable, token deposit in an attempt to hold the boat until then. Few boats will interest you enough for a test drive
dont let one slip away to save 20 bucks.<br />If at all possible, take your test in the place where you anticipate using the boat. If you are planning to ride the chop of a windy bay or the rolling ocean, do not be fooled by the smooth ride of the local lake.<br />Note that this is not a course in piloting or boat safety. I am only going to discuss transaction-related things to look for during your test spin.<br /><br />It is OK to bring guests on your test. In fact, I recommend it. If you will be sometimes boating alone, but sometimes with some fishing buddies or family members, it is best to test the performance of the boat both lightly and heavily loaded. Just be sure that, like the witness you brought to the inspection, they keep their eyes and ears open and their mouths shut.<br />That goes for you, too, potential buyer
the seller may want to start buddying up now because he feels a close coming on, or simply because he enjoys boating, or because this may be his last sentimental voyage on a favorite vessel. Dont get all emotionally clouded now
youve still got your most important work ahead of you!<br /><br />Before launching, get the tongue weight again, with no one aboard and with all gear stowed on the boat. Make a mark with a pencil where the bow roller/stop touches the bow, so that you can ensure the boat re-loads to exactly the same spot (you will check tongue weight again later).<br />Does the boat unload safely and easily (another check that the trailer is well-matched and properly adjusted)?<br />Does the boat have proper idle rpms? If not, there may be a fuel or spark problem, or the idle may simply be set incorrectly.<br />Does the boat shift and accelerate properly? Does it get up on plane OK? Does it have the kind of speed you expect? If not, it may be under-powered, weighed down with 800lbs of water trapped under the flooring, or under-propped.<br />Are the WOT rpms right? If high, the boat is under-propped. If low, the boat is either over-propped or the throttle cable is not adjusted properly.<br />Is the boat stern-heavy (porpoises), bow-heavy (digs in) or listing badly to one side? Does it turn and handle well? Can any of these problems be corrected simply by shifting some things around inside the boat? Or by fiddling with tilt and trim? If these problems cannot be easily corrected, this is a sign of a poor (or at least, inadequate to the task) boat design, a mismatched motor, water under the floor in one or more spots, etc.<br /><br />Really put the boat through its paces. Does it handle the way you expect? Does it take wake and waves OK? Is the comfort level acceptable? Do you see anything that will prevent you using the boat the way you envisioned (e.g., inadequate storage areas, stern obstructions that prevent good fishing room, no place to securely fasten a trolling or kicker motor, nowhere to put a ski tow, sits too low in the water to go offshore, etc.). This is the point where youand only youhave to decide, is this boat truly right for me?<br /><br />Be sure to keep the boat out for at least half an hour
you need time to see if the boat takes on water. Check the bilge pump
one day it will save you or your boat.<br /><br />Does the boat re-load onto the trailer safely and easily? After re-trailering the boat (remember your pencil mark), and draining anything you can out of the bilge area, get the tongue weight again. Any significant increase suggests that water was taken on in a place it cant easily escape from (e.g., under the floorboards).<br /><br />Few boats indeedperhaps one in tenwill make it far enough for the next step
<br /><br /><br />Making an Offer, and Getting Whats Yours<br />You have ensured that the boat is appropriate for you. You have fully inspected and tested the boat, motor and trailer. You have made appropriate deductions from your starting price based on all the things you found wrong. Surprisingly, the boat is still worth money.<br /><br />Now, offer the seller 5% to 10% less than the lesser of: your properly-deducted starting price OR his asking price. This gives the seller bargaining room, yet ensures that you are gettingand offeringa fair deal. Dont worry about offending the guy if your offer is 25% (or even 50%) less than the asking price. This isnt personal, it is business. If he wont sell for around your offer, then look elsewhere; you will find a better deal.<br /><br />Youve negotiated the final price. Youve made your offer. You and the seller have bargained to an appropriate price. Now, if the seller has stated he will accept a personal check, write it out, but dont hand it over yet
NOW is the time to get all that extra stuff from the list in your back pocket. If the seller hems and haws over this, remind him that he said over the phone all that stuff was included
after all, its not YOUR fault he forgot about that stuff during price negotiations. This could be quite a treasure trove of nickel-and-dime stuff that you dont want to buy at new prices. Besides, unless the guy has a fleet of other boats to absorb this stuff, hes going to have no use for it anyway.<br /><br />NOTE: If the extra stuff amounts to a couple of moth-eaten PFDs and a broken oar, dont break the deal over it.<br /><br />If the seller will only take a cashiers check, then hand over a deposit (usually 1-2% of the value), preferably a check but cash will do, to hold the boat. Get your cashiers check (this might take a few days, depending what day of the week it is); then demand the extra stuff before handing that over.<br /><br />Finally, dont leave until you are assured that the title looks legit and has the sellers name on it. If you take possession of stolen property, you could be in big trouble.<br /><br /><br />After the Close<br />IF there is ever a time to buddy-buddy with the seller, it is now. This is when you find out about all those little annoyances that escaped your eye (I forgot to tell you, the light bulb on the speedometer is burnt out). Also, you get some good tips (I used to take this rig off to such-and-such a secret spot just before high tide and catch monster stripers on this-or-that). You might even get really lucky and get more than you bargained for (heck, I havent gone fishing since the kids moved out
why dont you just take these rods, too).<br /><br />Now, fix up those minor problems and get out there and enjoy your boat!