Buying boat, have questions

[Boisebiker]

I am looking at a 1999 Stingray 190RS. It definitely needs carpet and vinyl. I am told that it has not been in the water since a new motor was put in but not much is known about motor. Previous motor had freeze damage. Can anything be gleaned from the photo I have of the engine? Where is the serial number located and what can it tell me? What else should I be looking at on the motor to make sure it was equivalent to the original? Going to look at it tonight.

 

[Scott Danforth]

that is an older motor with the 1-piece bat-wing manifolds. for that reason alone I would look for another boat

serial number on all marine motors is on the side of the block just above the starter

 

[Boisebiker]

What year did they stop making the bat-wing style?

 

[Scott Danforth]

ignore the year, however 1996-1998. that is not of any issue. the batwings are problematic and if they havent leaked causing engine damage already, they soon will

 

[Boisebiker]

I saw other post, 1996-98. That means it was still the vortec right? Why is this version bad? Can they be upgraded? Boat is only $1500 with trailer. I can do seats and carpet then I have much newer boat with bigger motor.

 

[Scott Danforth]

usually boats that have trashed interiors also have rotten stringers and deck. make sure you read this:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...eeding-help-buying-a-boat-a-buyer-s-checklist

yes you can change them. new manifolds and risers are $500

vortec motors have 8 bolts holding the intake manifold in place where the pre-vortec have 12

so if you buy the boat for $1500, add $500 for the manifolds, $2000 for the seats, interior and carpet, then another $500 misc (assuming there is no rot anywhere) if you find rod, add $2500. why not simply spend $7000 or more on a well-kept water ready boat and hit the water tomorrow

 

[Boisebiker]

I plan to do carpet and vinyl myself and we are "feeling" the floor as we go. For me engine and out drive are the big hitters. For me and my 6 kids as long as it floats and pulls the rest doesn't matter and if we keep it low $ then resale does not matter.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If its rotten and sinks taking your kids with it...it will matter. Rotten stringers and floor are nothing to take lightly

 

[Boisebiker]

The stringer point is well taken. We live in a very dry location and boat is stored out of water. We boat on a small lake for a few hours at a time. I did view the boat last night. The block is a salvage yard vortex. What are the differences between an automotive block and a marine block? Floor is not soft but seems to float on top of stringers in some locations. Carpet has to be replaced so can I reattach it? Floor is fiberglass covered plywood.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Hate to keep piling on here, but please know what you're getting into. Boats always rot from the bottom up. A loose deck on top of the stringers or soft spots are symptoms of ugly things below. If it has a ski locker, poke around at the wood on either side. Open all the storage areas. Also ensure that the PO didn't lay a second layer of plywood on top of the original.
You can reattach the carpet but you'll need to get the old glue off which really sucks, trust me. New carpet glue won't stick to it. Also if the back of the carpet is deteriorating, the glue also won't stick.

I encourage you to read the first couple pages of my thread in my signature. My boat looked awesome, but the carpet hid a LOT of ugly.

Good luck!!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Oh, I just read over your post again. Guessing you meant can you reattach the deck. That all depends on the integrity of the stringers. Screws won't hold a deck down if the wood your drilling into is mulch.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The stringer point is well taken. We live in a very dry location and boat is stored out of water. We boat on a small lake for a few hours at a time. I did view the boat last night. The block is a salvage yard vortex. What are the differences between an automotive block and a marine block? Floor is not soft but seems to float on top of stringers in some locations. Carpet has to be replaced so can I reattach it? Floor is fiberglass covered plywood.

No difference between the block itself. Between a full long block, the cam, head gaskets, core plugs and waterpump are specific to marine use

If the floor is "floating" as you put it, its no longer secured. That would indicate a fair amount of rot underneath

 

[HT32BSX115]

Um.....RUN, WILL ROBINSON!!!!

 

[Boisebiker]

Baylinerchuck, I seem to be in the same boat as you(in more ways than 1). I have a decent 1988 Capri(2.8l) that works for us but we want something bigger. Although I would be buying this boat with no pre-conceived notion that it is in good shape. I read through your whole thread on your rebuild and it feels a little scary thinking I would have to do this, but I have tackled tough projects before. Your thread and a whole series of Youtube videos of a similar build have provided an immense amount of examples to help me understand what I could be getting into. I just have to decide if the deal is good enough. Automotive block, single cast exhaust risers, floor issues, bad vinyl and no history from previous owner, this would be a project boat for sure. Are the Stingray boats worth the effort?

 

[Boisebiker]

I meant a Capri with 2.3l. Just trying to get a feel for the value of the Stingray vs other well known boat brands. I have kids ranging from 17 to 4 and they are only getting bigger. More hp will be a must as we progress in the art of water sports.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Problem with purchasing a total fixer upper is you will be spending all your time grinding and glassing and not on the water. As well, in the end you will have spent more than a boat you can be out playing on instead of working on. Admittedly, you have a running boat now, but consider selling it and putting that towards a new hole in the water instead of a mega hour project.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Baylinerchuck, I seem to be in the same boat as you(in more ways than 1). I have a decent 1988 Capri(2.8l) that works for us but we want something bigger. Although I would be buying this boat with no pre-conceived notion that it is in good shape. I read through your whole thread on your rebuild and it feels a little scary thinking I would have to do this, but I have tackled tough projects before. Your thread and a whole series of Youtube videos of a similar build have provided an immense amount of examples to help me understand what I could be getting into. I just have to decide if the deal is good enough. Automotive block, single cast exhaust risers, floor issues, bad vinyl and no history from previous owner, this would be a project boat for sure. Are the Stingray boats worth the effort?

Thank you for the compliment in reading through my long winded thread. Honestly I've only been around one stingray and it was a 16' outboard model my buddy had. It was a good boat, but not really sure it was heads and tails better thanmy 86 16' Capri. Chaparral is a good quality boat, and you can see what I got into.

Bottom line in my opinion in dealing with boats is how YOU feel about it. You already know it's gonna be a ton of work, a ton of time, and lots of money. Is it worth it to you? Do you like the boat that much to sacrifice yourself for it? No one can answer that but you. That boat will cost you money as long as you own it. You'll never sell it for what you put into it. You know most of the issues with it. Are you willing to deal with it and put it back together? Again- only you can answer.

Good luck on making that decision.

 

[Boisebiker]

I can appreciate that point of view. I will never make the boat a show piece. It would be meant for family fun playing on a small lake. I have looked at many boats and do like the nice shiny ones with perfect seats and carpet but I just can't afford one of those. I have always kept my toy expenses low by buying used and doing all the work myself. I have built my own cars and do all maintenance on my house, 5 cars, RV, 8 dirt bikes, 5 snowmobiles and a boat. I can make the motor work and repair almost anything mechanical. I just have yet to do any fiberglass work and very limited vinyl work. I think I can be on the water for less than $2k and can spend time as needed to patch it back together. The hull is sound, motor/outdrive run and all the parts are accounted for, what else is an absolute show stopper? Floor/stringers, carpet and vinyl can be replaced as needed. How often are the engine mounts and transom bad and how can I tell? I can be talked out of it but I looking for more than opinions. Still waiting for titles to be gathered up so I have more time to sort it out.
As always thanks to everyone who post their knowledge and opinions as both have value to me and all that stumble on here to find help.

 

[revkev6]

The stringers are NOT something that gets fixed as you go. It is imperative that the wood is solid before anything else is done. Saying the hull is sound with bad wood is incorrect. You cannot have a sound hull if it is rotten. All of the motor and outdrive structure fasten to the wood. The stringers keep the hull straight, attach to motor mounts, etc. Extremely important.

It's a big job to replace all that. My uncle did it a couple years ago with a 1996 crownline. Not a first time fiberglass project.

Given everything you mention I wouldn't buy it for more than the value of the parts.

 

[Boisebiker]

"Given everything you mention I wouldn't buy it for more than the value of the parts." Probably the most useful advice I have heard yet. How do I value the parts of the boat that are still good? Motor(automotive block), outdrive, power steering, windows, controls/gauges, trailer and hull.