Buying my first boat - question about starting on land and what to look for

[dmanmtl]

Ok, so I am getting close on my first "real" boat - found a guy with a 2001 Bayliner with a mercury 3.0L 135 HP motor.

I am wondering if there are any specific things I should be looking for when I buy this - I am pretty mechanically inclined and have worked on car motors all my life. The obvious things are...well obvious (hull damage/repairs, engine sound). I assume if an engine is leaking oil it will leak down into the sump. And if the leg seals are gone there will be oil signs around them. I will also look for the obvious signs of potential trouble such as warn hoses or belts... Any advice would be appreciated.

Second question: The guy does not want to start the boat up without it being in the water - I know full well that the leg must be in the water as the engine coolant is the lake water. In the past I have always used "muffs" on outboards to give them a fresh source of water - is there something similar for a stern drive such as this (Alpha). Someone told me there is usually a garden hose attachment somewhere...The seller does not seem to know anything about this and I don't want to drag the thing to the lake to find out it runs like crap...(obviously before I make a final decision, I will insist on a test drive).

Thanks in advance!
D

 

[enginesilo]

Re: Buying my first boat - question about starting on land and what to look for

I'm probably about the same level of mechanical inclination as you so i'll share some things I check.

Compression, check what the original specs are ,and then check all cylinders. Rule is that they should be within 10% of each other

YES, you can start the I/O with the exact same muffs that you used on an outboard. If the seller doesn't trust those, bring it to the lake and run test it. You'll want to do that anyways so you can do the same checks while at the lake.

Good Luck.

 

[Don S]

Re: Buying my first boat - question about starting on land and what to look for

Lots of engines sound and run good on muffs, but put them in the water and they won't even start.

The water test is what you want. Listen for bad sounds, watch for overheats, make sure it gets full WOT rpms, and don't believe the ole "Just needs a different prop" if the rpms are over roughly 4 or 500 rpm low. It probably isn't the prop.
Also make sure it doesn't overheat, even at WOT it should stay the same as cruise rpm.
Check the trim sound of the drive and engine should not change when you trim up or down or steer left or right. If it does growl or rumble you can expect water in the bellows.
When shifting, the engine should hesitate when coming out of gear because of the shift interrupt system, but not going into gear. That would mean shift cable or drive problems (usually lower shift cable).

 

[Don S]

Re: Buying my first boat - question about starting on land and what to look for

Don't be surprised if the seller won't let you start taking things apart for compression tests etc. I wouldn't allow someone I don't know to put a wrench to anything until he owns it. He can authorize a certified Merc tech to do the tests, but that's it.

 

[ziggy]

Re: Buying my first boat - question about starting on land and what to look for

I am wondering if there are any specific things I should be looking for when I buy this

imho, wood rot would be the most spicific thing i can think of.it's a real deal killer. a soft floor is usually the starting sign that things may not be well. if a soft floor, stringers and transom follow. wood rot is hard to find though. look to see if there's anywhere ya can poke a probe into that might penetrate wood. maybe at the back of the sole? or maybe look at anything attached to the transom. ie, ladder, sonar, speedo pitot etc. check these screws for tightness or another sign of water penetrating the wood would be a dark brown stain running down from these screws. a dark brown stain running down from the garboard drain plug hole might indicate such. another item that is telltale would be a center window that closes crooked or not at all.
i remember when i bought my boat, i did a compression test on the engine + to help convince me the drive was good i did a pressure test on it. to do the pressure test on the drive ya gotta remove the gear lub. inspect that too on it's way out. inspect the initial draining by feeling the lub for metal fragments, then inspect the drained lub in the pan for water intrusion. if the drain plug has a magnet on it, metal fragments may be stuck there.

The guy does not want to start the boat up without it being in the wate

maybe he don't want ya to here it run. i would really wanna do a compression test if seller is adiment about not wanting to start the engine as your correct. no problem starting a boat on land.

note, water exiting the prop and pee hole and idle relief ports up by the transom. this is where water should exit my old mc-1, i'd assume the genII would be similar.

The seller does not seem to know anything about this and I don't want to drag the thing to the lake to find out it runs like crap...(obviously before I make a final decision, I will insist on a test drive).

sounds like the seller is lieing. which would be the norm for anyone selling a boat. never trust the seller, they have motivation to lie sometimes... and your correct on the test drive too. insist on one or no sale.
look the whole boat over from bow to stern. every fastener ya see. check to see if something is supposed to work, that it in fact does.

 

[stonyloam]

Re: Buying my first boat - question about starting on land and what to look for

Ok, so I am getting close on my first "real" boat - found a guy with a 2001 Bayliner with a mercury 3.0L 135 HP motor.

I am wondering if there are any specific things I should be looking for.......

Yeah, IMHO you should be looking for a good boat surveyor, and pay him to tell you exactly what you are getting into Hull motor and outdrive). The money will be well spent.