Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

[Kris33]

I have an 89'Evinrude 150. I have no history on the motor except that it ran 3 years ago before it sat in a yard. I just finished cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. My first attempt to turn the engine over was today. Nothing happened. There is a buzz at the throttle assembly. It is not always steady. It dies out after a few seconds. I'm relativley new to boating but something tells me that it may have something to do with the engine not being in neutral?

 

[OBJ]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

Hi Kris.....<br /><br />That buzz may be your warning horn getting ready to die or maybe already dead. This is something you do not need. <br /><br />Check it out like this.....on each head is a temp sensor. A single wire from each goes to the harness and connects to the warning horn through the harness. Look for a single tan wire from the heads. There will be a rubber boot over knife connectors that connect the sensor lead to the harness. Pull the boot back to expose the knife connector. You only need to do this on one sensor lead. Turn the key to on and ground the knife connector to the head. The alarm horn should go off and stay on until you unground the the lead. If the horn fails to sound or chatters or does anything but sound steadily, replace it. This horn also tells you of low oil level in the VRO reservoir and fuel restriction to the pump. It will also tell you of restricted oil flow to the pump. Very important if your still using the VRO. Lastly....if you don't have a manual for the engine, get one. It will pay for itself. OEM's are preferred because of the specific info they give on a given engine. The generics can be gotten from iboats (see bottom of page)<br /><br />For reprints of the original service manuals...see the link below.<br /><br /> http://www.kencook.com/contactus/Contact.htm <br /><br />Keep us posted....thanks.

 

[ob]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

Kris33,In addition the OBJ's comments,insure that you are beginning with a battery that is fully charged.On a rig that has sat stored in a yard for 3 years ,you'll also want to insure that all of the ground lugs on the engine block are clean and tight.Same with both battery terminals.<br /><br />Those controls do have a neutral safety switch that prevents cranking the engine over when the controls are in gear.They somtimes need attention ,but from the sound of it ,I think you have a different issue.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[Kris33]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

OBJ/OB,<br />Thanks for the replys. I will do what you say today to test the horn. Even with a bad horn the engine should still turn over right? The battery is fully charged. I will clean all electrical connections. Should I be able to put the engine into forward, netral a reverse when not running? I know I need an OEM manual.

 

[ob]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

Controls can be shifted through positions while an assistant turns the propeller.This will prevent binding of the shift mechanism.

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

And definitely put a water pump kit in it before you run it...

 

[Kris33]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

Spent most of Saturday troubleshooting with a Clymer manual...too vague. i still can't get the engine to turn over. i have discovered many corroded wires on the harness from the controls to the engine. i will clean and/or replace. i called local part dept for a new harness...$125.00 seemed like a lot. Any foolproof methond to test ignition switch and starter solinod. I just ordered a OEM service and owners manual..Hopefully i well recieve for this weekend activities. Tx,

 

[ob]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

Kris ,you can test the starter solenoid and starter for operation if you have a few basic things.<br /><br />Get a fully charged battery and securely connect a ground cable from its neg post to the engine block ground post.<br /><br />Next connect the pos cable of the battery to the large pos. terminal of the starter solenoid.Not the large terminal on the starter side but the other one.<br /><br />With the ignition switch off,you can then use a jumper wire between where you have the pos. cable connected to the solenoid and jump between it and the small igintion terminal of the solenoid.The engine should turn over.This will confirm that the starter solenoid and the starter are operable and your problem is likely due to corroded or loose connections between the controls/ignition switch or battery cables to the engine. <br /><br />Please be careful around the flywheel area when attempting to crank the engine during this test.

 

[Kris33]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

OB,<br />Got a break in the weather and tried what you said. I must be doing something wrong because I am getting some serious sparks. Maybe you can explain again. My solenoid has two large posts. The top goes directly to pos terminal on battery. The bottom goes to starter. On the front there are two small posts. The top has a yellow w/ red stripe. The bottom has a black wire. <br />Do I perform this test with battery in the boat disconnected? <br />Thanks,

 

[DJ]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

Are we sure this engine is not locked up?<br /><br />With the spark plugs out, you should be able to turn it over-by hand-rotating the flywheel.

 

[Kris33]

Re: Buzz at ignition switch 150 Evinrude

I am sure the engine is not locked. I have removed the plugs and I can turn the engine over with the flywheel.