calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

[sabbath20]

ok, after trying in vain to come up with other ideas on how to fix my 19' water-loo, I've decided to take the advice of all who have responded to my posts and do this right.

I have spent hours going over all these posts and still am a bit confused as to what I will need to get my project done. So much info I am feeling over whelmed. It has taken a few weeks to get the jargon (stringers?!?) down as well as trying to decipher things like MEKP, csm, 5200 and all the other things that make a guy go, huh?!? Not to mention when I first read about 16lb kits of foam I nearly gave up on the whole thing!

With that said, I'm replacing the under deck, hull frame, stringers, etc...(transom is good for some reason, but i'm not complaining! )

I've got the wood bought, and I went to this website http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html (thanks jigngrub) and found the 2lb foam. I figure two 16lb kits should get me done. Other than that, I am in the dark and over whelmed with what I will need to get my project done. I've got gelcoat cracks that need fixed, a nice 6" long grinder hole in the hull to fix, gonna be taking off the rub rail and re-doing the cap-hull connection. I would like a parts list of glues, resins, FG, Safety equipment, PB fixin's, grinding material and anything else you can possibly think of that I can order to get this done!

I call upon the FG boat guru's to once again, help a wayward, FG eatin', poisonous fume breathin', skin scratchin', coca-cola drinkin'-- just wanted to buy a boat to have fun, brother out.

And I wish to express my heart felt thanks to any and all who have taken there time to answer my posts and direct me towards the path I am currently on. Your help has been so appreciated. I remember the sinking feeling I had when I pulled that drill bit from the back of my transom and saw what was supposed to be dry wood but looked more like wet peat moss. Through this forum I now have hope and I have the likes of oops, jigngrub, Yacht Dr., ondarvr and so many others for bringing me hope and showing that it can be done. Yes, there is a light at the end of the tunnel and I'm pumped up! Let's git er done!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

First, Pics really are needed for us to SEE what you See and then give you the correct guidance on how to proceed with the proper repairs and materials. The first link in my signature below has drawings and info on how to fabricate and install your stringers, deck, and transom. If you havent read and studied the Sticky's at the top of the forum you should. You stated the transom was good but then you said your heart sank when you drilled into it and got peat moss. Soo... is the transom good or not? If so, what have you done to confirm that it IS good and solid. I have posted on several threads a "Starting" list of materials. It's impossible to give an exact "Quote" of everything you'll need but the Starting list will get your "Started" and from there, after you've done some "Glassin" you should have a good idea of what you'll need to "Finish" Here's the Starting List.

PPE

Respirator (Full Face Preferred $100) if not then double filtered 1/2 face and Goggles with vents taped over.
Latex Gloves (1 Box)
Leather Gloves 1 Pair
Full cover Hooded Tyvek suit.
Talcum Powder (coat yourself TOTALLY with talcum powder prior to every grinding Session. USE A LOT)

Equipment

Prybars, Hammers, chisels, Putty Knives
Flat tipped shovel to remove foam
Circular Saw
Sawzall
Dremel Tool
Router
Drill
Random Orbit Sander
Rasps, Files
4 1/2" Grinder with Backup Pad and 24 grit resin coated sanding discs
Masking Tape

Product

3 sheets 3/4" Arauco Ext. Grade Plywood

15 Gallons 435 Polyester Resin
10 qts Cabosil
2 lbs 1/4" chopped strand fibers
25 yds 1.5 oz CSM
15 yds 1708 Biaxial Cloth
dozen 1 qt plastic mixing buckets
1/2" x 5" Fiberglass roller
Short nap 6" nylon roller covers
2 dozen 3" Chip Brushes


Get your pics posted and remember that forum rules and guidelines suggest that once you start your project thread, you should keep all of the future posts in the same thread so the members can follow your project easily.

 

[oops!]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

I call upon the FG boat guru's to once again, help a wayward, FG eatin', poisonous fume breathin', skin scratchin', coca-cola drinkin'-- just wanted to buy a boat to have fun, brother out.
)

real boat builders drink beer

woody has you covered.......mileage may vary with size of boat.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

Oh yeah, I forgot the most important tool of all...BEER!!!!!! If you get enough in Aluminum cans, You Might be able to make a Boat out of em!!!! But you'll need some REEVITS!!!!!

 

[sabbath20]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

hey thanks woody for all that info! that's exactly what i needed!

I do have have pics posted on the link by my signature. my problem was that I was asking a question and didn't get any response, so i figured i'd have to new post to get a response. I fully recognize that you guys must follow so many of these projects it would make my head spin, so with that i just figured if i need an answer to a question and if i've waited for a few days i will have to post it in the general section for one of the guru's to see it. unless of course, i can pm someone. i've pm'd in the past to oops but only as a last resort and to get me started with my project. I was over whelmed and he calmed me down.

i'll start to post on my original post from here on out. is there a way to tie this posting into my original post?

a friend of mine came over and we made alot of headway.

oh and oops, unfortunately i was one of those guys who when he drank, ended up drinking waaaaay to much! I had to stop myself and did so back in '79. haven't had a sip since then. but i do enjoy a good root"beer", if that counts!

thanks

 

[sabbath20]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

here's some more pics...
so now some questions...it seemed to me and the boys, there would be nothing wrong with re-using the stringer channels. I was thinking that if the channels were cut down to about a quarter to half an inch high off the hull, then ground inside with a dremel tool to expose new fiberglass, then PB inserted and the new stringer laid into the stringer channel in conjunction with completing the hull's frame that the channel would be worth saving to use that way. of course we would lay new FG on the outside and do it proper from there.

Also, the bow end of the stringer only goes about 10 more inches into the bow just under the portion of deck I have left uncut. i should be able to remove enough of the remaining deck to clear out all remaining stringer and foam without having to remove any thing else. the only area of concern is the gelcoat covered flooring joining both sides, the port and starboard sides together in the open bow. could i cut out that fg/gelcoat floor so i have access to the remaining deck then re-FG that floor back so i have it attached again like it was before i cut it out? I wouldn't have to gelcoat it cause i was gonna put carpet back down anyways. what do ya think?

 

[sabbath20]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

almost forgot to answer a question posed by woodonglass,

You stated the transom was good but then you said your heart sank when you drilled into it and got peat moss. Soo... is the transom good or not? If so, what have you done to confirm that it IS good and solid.

what i had originally thought was bad transom when i was screwing in my trim tabs turned out to be bad deck. the wood for the transom in that area is actually about 10 inches higher than the deck. the wood is not FG'd so it is readily visible and definitely not rotten.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

Just so we are all on the same page, you have drilled into the transom with a 1/4" drill bit about 1" deep at several locations on the transom, inspected the drill shavings and they are all light colored and dry? Correct. If not then there is no other true method of knowing for sure it is sound. It is never recommended here on the fourm to re-use the stringer channels. Grind then down flat to the the hull and then grind the hull 3-4 inches on either side of the channels for tabbing in the new stringers. As long as the decking in the bow area is solid you can just remove what's needed and replace as needed. You will be glassin all the wood you replace so it will be waterproofed.

 

[sabbath20]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

my transom wood is in 3 pieces. i didn't drill into any of it yet, but i guess i will so i will know for sure. thanks for the reply.

question...when laying the stringer, i am to assume the edge that will be on the deck needs to be beveled to an angle that is close to that of the hull so the stringer more or less sit flush to the hull?

and lastly...why would a stringer channel not be considered as a good anchor point if it was properly prepared? please don't take me wrong, i'm not tying to be disrespectful, i just look at that channel and see a lot of good with using it. I checked your prior post WOG and really appreciate what you've posted. seems to me the channel would not hinder anything. i started ordering from the list of materials today. thanks for the help.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

question...when laying the stringer, i am to assume the edge that will be on the deck needs to be beveled to an angle that is close to that of the hull so the stringer more or less sit flush to the hull?

Nope, it does not have to set right against the hull, actually just the opposite, there should be a little gap between the stringers and the hull, some here you PL adhesvie to bed the stringer in, other use what ever is lying around the shop to bring them up a little, (pop stick, match stick, slivers of wood, most anything is fine as the fiberglass is what provides the strength to the hull..

CW

 

[sabbath20]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

Thanks for the info CW, greatly appreciated. Another mystery that I had put to sleep!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

The first link in my thread has drawings and helpful info on how to fabricate and install your stringers, deck and transom.
As for the channels, CW has it correct in that the strength of the stringer is in the glass. Leaving the walls of the old channels will make it difficult for you to obtain good adhesion of the glass to the hull and stringer. Many here on the forum but have soon discovered that even though it LOOKS like a good idea, they only get in the way. If you look at the drawings, I think you'll see why.

 

[sabbath20]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

Great drawings WOG, really detailed.

My question then would be; in the drawing you have the stringer sitting on the flat surface of the hull. on my boats hull, the stringer would sit on an angled part of the hull. so that brings me to this question; once the PL adhesive is laid on the hull, then the stringer placed on the PL, due to the angle of the hull, there will be a wide gap on the side of the stringer (side located closest to keel) when the stringer is erected vertically. I would assume that this area would have to be built up from the hull to the bottom of the stringer? I had seen in my minds eye that re-using the old channel (the side walls of the old channel would be no more than perhaps a quarter inch high) would facilitate keeping the PL adhesive contained so the bottom of the stringer would rest squarely on top of the PL adhesive which is now a thin layer towards the top of the hulls angle and a thicker layer on the low side of the hulls angle. Sooo, without the channel, how is this accomplished? How do you ensure full contact of PL adhesive to bottom of stringer without some sort of containment for the PL adhesive?

thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

I f you read the instructions and look at the drawing you will see a Coved Fillet that takes care of the transition between the bottom of the stringer and the angle of the hull. You can, if you want, cut the angle on the bottom of the stringer but it is not required. You will need to make a stringer support system, something like this...

to keep them vertical. As RR stated and the instructions state too you use 1/4" dowels, popscicle sticks, scrap strips of wood, Pieces of foam whatever, to suspend them off the deck approximately 1/4" so they do not "Squish" out all of the PL or PB whichever you decide to use. If you use PL bear in mind it will take 3 days for it to cure and you cannot start to tab the stringers to the hull using resin and CSM before the PL has cured. If you use PB you can start to Tab them within an hour or so.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

Also don't get real bent out of shape if the PL doesn't contact perfect everywhere, again the strength comes from the cloth and resin. If you run a fillet along the side of the stringers that'll take care of any "gaps" you might have incurred. The fillet makes a nice looking job and is the best way to go, but even that isn't absoultely required. I've never seen a fillet from the factory on any restore I've ever done. Just stringers set in the hull and glassed...20 years down the road, still hanging in there.

Oops! has said many times....this ain't rocket science..

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

Yeah, if it was I sure as Heck couldn't do it!!! I'm just an...

 

[sabbath20]

Re: calling FG guru's!...I'm gonna do it right!...can I get a parts list please?

well thanks gents, i was wondering about that 1/4 " stuff, scratching my head trying to figure out what you were getting at WOG? so the stringers are suspended a quarter inch ABOVE the hull...NOW I get it! As you may have guessed I am a visual learner so the illustration really helped! I did order PL but can see that mixing PB seems the way to go. Cadwelder is spot on with the fillets, it does make for a great looking "finish" on the job and I was planning to do that as well.

Ok now that my questions have been satisfactory answered, i'll be grinding down to the hull. thanks for the help with getting me to understand.:redface:

i'll commence with grinding when my filters and tyvek suit come in next week.