Carb info 1989 Force 85HP.

59Hustler

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I took off my carbs to clean them and found that they did not have a carb bowl gasket on any of the carbs. What are they made of cork or a rubber O-ring? It is part f in the diagram they were also missing part D.
I ordered 3 rebuild kits but they were damaged in shipment and sent back to the seller he doesn't have any more in stock.
Also there is a black substance on the outside of the carb bowls it is hard and inside the bowls was a similar substance but it was soft any ideas?
 

59Hustler

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The pictures that were lost when a stupid ad disrupted my browser. You can see the black stuff on the no 1 carb. the diagram is from the shop manual
 

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59Hustler

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one more question what does the spring part E and washer part d do. i have worked on a lot of carbs but have never seen anything like it. It is in the emulsion circuit does it just hold the nozzle in place?
 

jerryjerry05

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Not sure what the spring does?? or what an emulsion circuit is/does??

The no gaskets?? the factory installed cork.
Aftermarket kits and some rebuild kits had black rubber/silicone gaskets/washers.
The new fuels and Ethanol and the additives we put in the fuel can melt the black gaskets.
A carb cleaner/soak can melt the plastic pieces or rubber hoses

I'd bet the black gunk is melted gaskets.

They might have the parts here??
If not, ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-FO...363295&hash=item25d7ee8077:g:ffQAAOSwehlZ4Zd4
 

59Hustler

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Jerry, the Emulsion tube in a carburetor is used to maintain the air fuel ratio at all speeds, it consists of a well with main metering jet at its bottom. I figured out what the spring is for. it is to hold the nozzle up into the carburetor throat.on mid 1989 85 HP. models it looks like they redesigned the carburetor and had it screw in like most other carbs I have seen. (85 HP C. models) I went back 50 years and made my own cork gaskets for the float bowls and air box. The air box had only three screws in it holding it to the carbs and was missing 2 screws holding the box together.Now to watch the link and sync in the stickies again, mount the carbs and tune it..
You were right on the black junk it was melted gaskets.
 

59Hustler

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Anybody know an easy way to bolt the carbs back onto the intake adapter? I just lost the no. 3 carbs starboard side mounting nut into 10 feet of water, trying to get it in behind the throttle link. I have cloth under the carbs to catch them but I tweaked a nerve in my thumb and it went shooting out. I was pushing up on the throttle tie bar which gives a little room but not much when working over the fence on a pontoon.
I see the manual says to put the tie bar on after you mount the carbs but that means playing with By Jesus clips (E clips) over the water.. Well I have to go 18 miles into town to get another nut so I may as well buy a handful of E clips as well.
 

Nordin

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I would have done exactly as you did with the cloth BUT do it with the boat on land not in water.

I never work or change parts on the Engine or the boat with the boat in water.
Murphy´s law you know !!!!

If you flip a nut or what so ever, you have a chance to find it at land ...... in water, NO never!!!

BTW The bowl gaskets are still available, you made them your self !!!
That is really good worked.
I try to make most of the gaskets myself but these, NO I would not manage it.
To thin surfaces and it has to fit in the grove in the carb.
 
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jerryjerry05

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The nut's are just a standard 1/4-20(I think).
On the bigger motors they went up in size.

You must be very talented if you can make gaskets from cork for the float bowls :)
My fingers never could do something like that.
 

59Hustler

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Nordin, I agree on taking the boat out of the water, but I have to take the boat 7 miles up the lake to get it out of the water. The local boat ramp closed and my neighbors is to small for the pontoon.
Jerry,The nuts are 5/16 -18 I bought 6. Yes they were a bugger it took me about 4 hours to make the three gaskets, never again. I just want to get out on the lake and didn't want to wait a week for the gaskets to get here. They are on order, with extras.
 

59Hustler

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I got her started with just a quick shot of choke, adjusted idle mixture and speed., checked full throttle carb opening. I then took her for a cruise and had good and bad results.
She still won't go over 4 k RPM even with a 13 p prop, but she went 18 miles without a single hiccup.
I still have to check the timing. I tried it anchored out but she pulled the anchor so I will have to do it while cranking. that will take an octopus and my starting switch.
 

kbh121956

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Timing seldom goes out. Did you sinc the carbs? The "sticky" above show how.
 

59Hustler

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KBH 121956 Thanks for the reply. Yes i followed it and performed the sync on the carbs.including the full throttle part.
I am hoping it is timing other wise it just leaves the ignition or the reeds.
This engine is new to me so I do not know its history. I should have left the good running 40 HP Force on it but wanted to pull my grand kids on tubes. It has 150 psi on all 3 cylinders so the compression is good. I have my octopus made so I will time it this evening if it doesn't Thunderstorm..
 

59Hustler

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Well I checked my timing it is at 28 degrees on the starter motor at full advance. However my adjustment linkage looks funky. I didn't touch it as all was well. It looks like someone put it together backwards. the screw to adjust it is toward the crankshaft. although at full throttle it is toward the starter. Now to figure out what is really wrong with this motor. The carbs needed cleaning.
Do you need to order gaskets to clean the recirc system? I cleaned out the airbox part and the valve in the airbox.
 

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jerryjerry05

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The linkage is correct.
Your getting 4K and running right??

The load, and prop is where you should look now.
Too much stuff and the wrong pitch is what you need to look at

Your prop aluminum or stainless?
How much junk you carry?
 

59Hustler

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I think she is running right. but I may be lean.
I just read the second link and sync in the stickies (iwatched the videos before and read the manual) and saw where Frank said not to adjust less than 3/4 turns out. I set the idle by the manual that said to start at 3/4 turns out then turn in 1/8 at a turn until it pops then back out 1/8 turn.

Jerry I am running a 13.75 X 13 P composite (Pirahna) prop now.

The 20 ft boat is empty except for the Fortrex 112 lb thrust trolling motor and her three batteries,. a 30 lb anchor in the bow., a 12 lb anchor in the stern a live well a couch and 4 fishing seats..
The 40 pushed her to the same speed 18 mph GPS at 5000 rpm with an 13 x 11 p stainless prop although not with the same authority if any wind it was 14 mph.
Shouldn't an 85 hp be able to push a 2 P higher prop?
The 17 P pushed her to a slightly higher top speed 19-20 mph but at 3600 RPM. on the 85.
 

59Hustler

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today cylinder #3 started kicking in and out again. ran great to 4k rpm for 9 miles then started hiccuping. I checked to see if I had spark on all 3 with my timing light and it was there but pulling plug wire 3 showed no drop in RPM. I am at a loss now. I am running fresh fuel in a new tank mixed 50:1 with Pennzoil premium tcw3 I have a new water separator filter on it.
For a little while it was running on no 3 at an idle
When it was running on all 3 it had a great hole shot pulling fast and cleanly to 4 grand..
 

jerryjerry05

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Check the trigger leads.
The shrink wrap on the connectors can hide a broken lead.
Try tugging on the skinny, tiny leads and see if one comes loose??
88/85 had an intermittent miss, only at an idle????
Then it became constant, I knew the trigger lead was bad.
I replaced ALL the wire connectors (sop) and the prob. solved.

Pull the plugs and check for water.
Do a compression test., the same 88/85 had a miss.
Pulled the plugs, nothing.
Did a comp test all at 145#
Tried running again, still missing.
Pulled plugs again and noticed a TINY, TINY, TINY spec of water on #2
Bad gasket.
 

59Hustler

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Jerry I hope I have it now. No.3 trigger leads went from 50 ohms to infinite when wiggling the leads. They didn't pull apart. I cut stripped and installed new connectors on both leads. I am going to replace the leads on all of the trigger leads They tested good(checked using ohm meter and wiggle test). I just need to give it a good running test, they are calling for severe thunderstorms so I will wait.
I need to find the right connectors the standard red spade connector 22-18 are really too large for these wires. I am looking for some of the spring terminal clips like they came with. Mouser has them but $9.12 for 20 of them and $7.99 for shipping..
Thanks for the help.
 
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jerryjerry05

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Radio Shack was where I used to go for the good gold plated connectors.
Find a place like that or Grainger.
 
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