carb issue

[ready4lake]

I just swapped from 3.0 to 4.3 in my 89 bayliner. I got the boat to start, but it immediately dies. I don't see any fuel spraying in the carb. I think the jets are blocked. I get now response from the throttle once it starts. The boat I pulled the motor from sat for a long time so I think it is gummed up(the owner said since late 1990's). Is it worth trying a rebuild on the carb? or should I get a remanufactured one? The rebuild kits are pretty expensive. I don't want to attempt it just to find out it doesn't help.

 

[Bondo]

Re: carb issue

Ayuh,.... Rebuildin' an ole rotten carb is at best a 50/ 50 shot, If ya know what yer doin', 'n have the equipment/ tools...

 

[ready4lake]

Re: carb issue

Ya, thats what I thought. I think I am going to order one tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[JSMoore]

Re: carb issue

I had a similar situation with my '87 OMC Cobra 4.3, and decided to replace, rather than repair. Although it was much more expensive than just installing a kit, it's hard to argue with the results I got.

Replacement carbs are available through iBoats. Just do a search and keep drilling down until you get to your particular application. An alternative source is Flying Fish Carburetors. That's where I got my new carburetor. And, I got great service through them.
Cheers!
JSMoore

 

[ready4lake]

Re: carb issue

Ok, I cleaned the carb out good today, and got the jets going. It still starts then dies. I have no voltage at the + side of coil when key is in ON position, but do have voltage when starting. I am not getting any running voltage I guess. I waiting on a new starter because I just burnt mine up. When I get it on later today I am going to jump BAT to Ignition on the solenoid to give the coil constant power and see if she stays running. Anyone know why this would be? I checked the voltage at the ignition switch in ON position and it is good. I will update in a few hours when I get my starter.

 

[ready4lake]

Re: carb issue

I put twelve volts straight to the purple wire on the starter solenoid and the engine stayed running when I started it, but it would no stop running. I turned the key off, battery switch off , and it still ran. Why is my coil not getting power after starting? Can anyone help me? I have the wiring diagram and the second wire on + side of coil goes to the alternator. Does that mean my alternator is bad?

 

[ready4lake]

Re: carb issue

Ok, I did some wire tracing and found that I get voltage at my ignition switch to the ignition wire (purple) but not at the big harness plug at the engine. I need to make a long test wire to check continuity, but I got the engine to run so I can tune it. I just made a wire with the correct resistance and ran it straight from the ignition switch to the coil. Now I am able to run the engine and turn it off so it is temporarily fixxed until I find the issue with the original ignition wire.

 

[ready4lake]

Re: carb issue

Well I was just looking through some posts and I think I found my issue. I guess there are two ignition fuses in rubber boots that look like connectors. I will check these when I get home tonight. I saw the fuses in the manuals wiring diagram but could not see them, but now I know. I will update in a few hours.

 

[ready4lake]

Re: carb issue

Well it turns out one of the 50a fuses was bad. I replaced it but still have no power to coil. I found that there was no power even going to the main harness connector from the ignition. Then I wanted to beat myself up. Immediately I knew what to check, the lanyard safety switch. Of course it was bad. I will put a new switch in tomorrow morning and fire it up. Hopefully all will be good. I am tired of chasing this stupid issue. Electrical issues suck. I wish it was a carb issue. I would have fixed it faster.

Can I change the title to my thread?