Re: Carb Rebuild V6 135HP 1988
BTW, you do set idle, and if the "advance" module is still on it, you disconnect it for timing settings.
Right behind each carb is a block of reed valves, 10 per carb. Once the carbs are of, ten more bolts, and some bleed lines, and the reed plate is off. There's a maximum relaxed opening spec in the book for the reeds. Normally they are all laying comletely flat to the reed blocks. Look for that, and any cracked or chipped reeds. If you inspect them you'll need a reed plate gasket. Do not try to re-use it.
If the engine idles on all 6, you can rule out bad reeds.
As long as the carbs are off and they are easily accessible, it's a good idea to inspect all the bleed lines, the bleed line check valves, and the bleed line routing. I just put a small hose or straw on each check valve. It should allow air flow out from the reed plate, but block it the other way.
I'm changing mine out because they are 22 years old, and when they fail, they usually do some damage going through the engine. They are very tough and long lived, but there has to be a limit somewhere. Also, fiberglass reeds idle better because they are more sensitive and accurate in their operation. I'm putting in a set of Chris Carson Marine sport reeds.
