Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

kfa4303

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Hi all. So I've been tinkering with a 3 hp Gamefisher. After getting new s/plug, 50:1 gas, new lower unit oil and general refurbishing I took the little motor out. It ran ok for a bit, but then about every 30 sec. - 1 min. it would then bog down and cut out no matter what speed I was traveling. However, it would always start right back up with one pull.
So I brought it home and rebuilt the carb b/c I figured it was a fuel issue. Thankfully, the carb wasn't dirty, all needles and jets were in great shape. So, I put everything back together (no leftover bits and pieces or anything :) ) and started it right up. Ran better than ever, smooth as butter, so obviously cleaning the carb helped. I could even rev to high rpm in tank and all seemed well. However, after letting it idle for 5-10 min in tank it cut out again:/
I'm 99% sure the fuel system is ok, so I'm thinking condensers. Am I right? I also noticed that the pull start on top of motor is quite warm, which also made me think the condensers are getting too hot beneath the flywheel. Sorry if I making dumb guesses, it's just that I've done just about everything else I can think to do.
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Please post the model no. so we can see which outboard you have.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

sorry about that. The model # is 298-586190. I think it's an early 90's/late 80's model. And I guess it's actually the coils not the condesors that would over heat, right? Thanks for all the help.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

If it helps, I just went out and started it up again. It fired up after a few tries and runs good in tank. Will let run longer to see if I can get it to die again, but don't want to annoy the neighbors right now. Also, what would be considered a "good" idle speed? Should the prop just barely spin, not spin at all, or spin quickly? Thanks again for all the help.
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

you should test the coil but if its failing after it gets hot you might have to get creative, also sears says that coil is no longer available so you might have to get creative to find a replacement or have it reparied...you can use the Doug Penn video to get the testing procedure. someone else here may be allot more help on this than me.
 

F_R

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Just so you know, that motor was made by Tanaka. And that's all I know about it.
 

Tom @ Buzzard Bluff

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

sorry about that. The model # is 298-586190. I think it's an early 90's/late 80's model. And I guess it's actually the coils not the condesors that would over heat, right? Thanks for all the help.

Whether coil or condenser it's a single so there's only one of each. If you're lucky. Otherwise it may have an electronic ignition of some sort with a different coil and an 'igniter' replacing points and condenser. Check out the differences by clicking on the TOB-300 parts book link at <http://www.tanaka-usa.com/index.php?section=129>

You said <However, it would always start right back up with one pull.>
A coil that is failing under heat load normally will need up to an hour of cooling time to get over its temper tantrum. Sounds to me more like a fuel delivery problem. Check and clear everything from the gascap vent to the float bowl before pulling the flywheel. There's far more to a 'fuel system' than just the carb.
 

robert graham

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

I've been running one of those Tanaka 3HP for 25+ years now and your problem sounds like that little fuel tank vent screw needs to be opened more, OR a restriction in that crappy little fuel petcock. I finally replaced mine with an all-plastic unit from the chain-saw section at Northern Tools, new clear yellow fuel lines too, no more restrictions! Fuel flow is probably your problem and a very cheap and easy fix! Good Luck!
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

I think you're right Robert. Glad to hear the pet **** gave you trouble too lol. At least I'm not crazy for thiking that might be it. I've opened the vent on gas cap, even added a few extra holes. The fuel lines are nice and clear and I rebuilt the carb, which was asctually really clean, it has a new spark plug and fresh fuel too. Will even idle at low rpm no problem, but when I give it gas it wants to cut out unless I go slowly. Where should I set the idle screw? Shold the prop spin at idle none, some, or qute a bit. Any hlep would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Robert, do you happen to remember what size/type of replacement petcock and lines did you get (i.e. inline or staggered)? I only ask b/c the metal petcock on motor has a higher inlet and a lower outlet stem, with a plastic fuel filter basket. Does that matter, or can the pit **** stems be inline (at the same level)? Was there a particular brand that you got? Sorry for the silly questions, but I'm a newbie. thanks!
 

robert graham

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

That @#$%petcock has a little rubber piece in it and if it's not lined up with the holes in the aluminum handle it will retrict the flow. To test this out, maybe just bypass the petcock completely and see how she runs. Another item to check is for carbon in the exhaust ports, just unsrew that muffler cover, remove 2 big screws from exhaust manifold to get access to the exhaust ports,clean carbon out of ports with a pin knife or file, also remove 4 big phillips screws to remove cylinder and check for stuck piston rings, if stuck, carefully free up with some carb cleaner, rotate rings in grooves until they're nice and free. This motor is dead easy to work on. Good Luck!
 

robert graham

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

The replacement petcock from Northern Tools is just an in-line plastic unit with no screen, after I installed mine with the new, clear yellow fuel lines, I secured the new petcock with a tie-wrap just to keep it from jiggling around. When you go to Northern Tools, take your old petcock so you can match up the petcock and fuel line diameters, it's real simple to do. I imagine there's at least several petcocks at Northern Tools that might fit this application, but I believe mine was in fuel hose, fittings section.
 

robert graham

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Just set the idle with the little phillips head screw on the side of the carb, I just set mine until it sounds about right, usually at idle the prop don't turn, since there's not enough RPM's to engage those centrifugal clutches.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Bingo! I think you got it Robert. I also noticed that the barrell shaped, rubber grommet, inside the chamber where the forked brass pitcock goes, had shreded due to years of turning the pitcoc. I cleaned out all the bits I could at the time and helped to reopen the holes by gently twisitng an 1/8 drill bit by hand, which fit perfectly. That helped some, but it still wants to konk out at high rpm, so I thnk it still needs a bit more/freer fuel flow. I live in sunny Florida, so no "Northern Tools", or anything else around here lol, but gonna go to a small engine shp to see it they can have what I need. Thanks again to all who've helped! I'll post an update ASAP.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Gotcha. That's what I thought idle means idle, not moving. Just wanted to be sure because when I have it set so prop doesn't spin it sounds a bit weak and on the edge of konking out probably due to weak fuel flow b/c of crappy pit ****. Gonna go get new pet ****, fuel filter and new clear lines. Will let y'all know how it goes. Thanks again! iboats is awesome!
 

robert graham

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Northern Tools is like Home Depot or Lowe's, they're all over the USA, including Florida. Just Google: Northern Tools, Florida, and it gives all their locations in your state. The petcock is just a plastic, generic item that could fit on anything. Hope this fixes your problem!
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Eureka!!! I think it's fixed! (no jinx) I went got a new plastic pit **** and installed it in place of the old aluminum one and after a few pulls and a bit of tweaking to the idle screw, she runs better than ever. I made sure to hang it with a bi of coat hanger so the plastic can't touch the hot engine and melt too. There's no fuel trap/filter or screen, so I'll have to be extra careful that no debris gets into the gas tank, but otherwise I think I'll be ok. I let it idle for 10-15 min. with no probs, and held it at half throttle for another couple min., then opened her up full bore and she ran like crazy, but in a good smooth way. I don't think she ever ran this fast in the past. I think the slightly larger inlet and outlet stems on the new replacemtn pet **** helped increase the flow of fuel too. Can't wait to get on the water again and see how she works underload. I'll try to help out others with any thing I can. I've learned a lot by just diving in there and having at it. Thanks again everyone!!!
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

congrats and whew! it wasn't a coil, but you really need filter in that line...just sayin :)
 

kfa4303

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Re: Carbs vs. Condensors on 3 hp gamefisher?

Yup. That'll be next. Hopefully, when I get one it won't impeded the flow of fuel. I'm glad it wasn't the coil too. I actually tried to get the flywheel off, but couldn't do it. I actually broke off a piece of the metal basket the pull start sits in on top of the motor. I think it would've taken a harmonic balancer/flywheel puller, which I don't have and haven't used, so I'm glad it was something easier to fix. thanks again.
 
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