Carolina skiff Hull repair question

[Bassmaster229]

I have a 2000 Carolina skiff 1965 V series with damage bellow the bow eye. Iooking for repair advice. First thing I noticed is behind the damage in the hole there is some pretty thick woven fiberglass. It’s hard to see in the pic but if you zoom in you can kind of make it out. Aren’t these things built with a chopper gun? So if there is woven glass could this area have been repaired before? I started to grind out the damaged glass. As I tried to feather the edges out I hit an open area towards the bottom of the hull where the V shape starts. My first thought was delamination. But all that’s behind it is that woven fiberglass and it’s flat. Not V shaped. Could i be seeing the floor behind the hull? How thick is the hull in this area. Final question. I know epoxy repairs are stronger but I want to be able to gel coat. So would the polyester resin work for this repair? What repair process would you use for this? Any advice is appreciated. I’ve done a little fiberglass before but never on a boat.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

The hull is made from the gelcoat out. They spray the mold with whatever release agent, then the gelcoat layers. It looks like yours was then chop, and hand laid roving in the bow area and possibly keel.

The bow hook is normally a heavily reinforced area, mine went through a wood block on the inside. The block had layers of roving on top of it.

If I was repairing the hole in your picture, I would want to see how damaged that roving was on the inside. If no damage, grind out all the cracks on the outside, then fill with shortstrand fiberglass filler since it’s above the waterline. Keep the filler slightly lower than the finish surface. Get a gelcoat repair and fill the rest of the way, sand, done.

 

[Grub54891]

Its pretty typical on boats to find hollow spots under the gel on sharp bends and curves. They spray that chopped strand in and it don't get into the corners often. If they followed with a roller it would be better, but that's cutting unto the bottom dollar.

 

[Chris1956]

That is a minor gouge. Spread some marine poly putty over the gouge and let her harden. Sand and gelcoat.

When you reinstall the bow eye, make a block out of wood to fit the vee on the inside of the fiberglass. This will add surface area to the pull of the eye, and a lot of strength. This has nothing to do with the repair, it is just a good idea, as the OEM did the minimum to reinforce the bow eye.

 

[Bassmaster229]

Its pretty typical on boats to find hollow spots under the gel on sharp bends and curves. They spray that chopped strand in and it don't get into the corners often. If they followed with a roller it would be better, but that's cutting unto the bottom dollar.

That makes sense how not rolling it would allow separation in the corners. So my next question. If you were repairing, would you grind down the keel till you find an area not separated? It would be safe to assume it’s that way all the way down the edge of the keel. That a lot of work for a small area of damage. Or would you just repair the damaged are. The woven glass had no damage just outer layers of chop strand. What I did last night was I ground out the loose and broken glass. Then I went over the woven glass with a thickened resin to give an even surface to apply a few layers of new glass and I packed some thickened resin down into the separation of the outer layer glass and the woven. It was supposed to rain last night. Didn’t want any water making its way down in there. Figured if I was wrong in doing this it could easily be ground down again. Can I go ahead and lay a couple layers of glass to start the repair or so you recommend grinding till I find an area not separated? I attached a pic of the area after I applied a skim coat of thickened resin. If it’s safe to continue the repair I will sand it then start applying a few layers of chop strand, fair, the gel coat.

 

[Bassmaster229]

The hull is made from the gelcoat out. They spray the mold with whatever release agent, then the gelcoat layers. It looks like yours was then chop, and hand laid roving in the bow area and possibly keel.

The bow hook is normally a heavily reinforced area, mine went through a wood block on the inside. The block had layers of roving on top of it.

If I was repairing the hole in your picture, I would want to see how damaged that roving was on the inside. If no damage, grind out all the cracks on the outside, then fill with shortstrand fiberglass filler since it’s above the waterline. Keep the filler slightly lower than the finish surface. Get a gelcoat repair and fill the rest of the way, sand, done.

There was no damage to the roving

 

[Bassmaster229]

The hull is made from the gelcoat out. They spray the mold with whatever release agent, then the gelcoat layers. It looks like yours was then chop, and hand laid roving in the bow area and possibly keel.

The bow hook is normally a heavily reinforced area, mine went through a wood block on the inside. The block had layers of roving on top of it.

If I was repairing the hole in your picture, I would want to see how damaged that roving was on the inside. If no damage, grind out all the cracks on the outside, then fill with shortstrand fiberglass filler since it’s above the waterline. Keep the filler slightly lower than the finish surface. Get a gelcoat repair and fill the rest of the way, sand, done.

I also have and area on the chine that is damaged and very similar to this. The outer layers are damaged about the size of a nickel and I can see woven glass behind it. This is below the water line obviously. What repair procedure would you recommend for this area. I will be tackling this next. I figured I would start with the repair above the water line before as kind of a practice before I did anything below the water line. I can get a picture of this area later

 

[Grub54891]

That makes sense how not rolling it would allow separation in the corners. So my next question. If you were repairing, would you grind down the keel till you find an area not separated? It would be safe to assume it’s that way all the way down the edge of the keel. That a lot of work for a small area of damage. Or would you just repair the damaged are. The woven glass had no damage just outer layers of chop strand. What I did last night was I ground out the loose and broken glass. Then I went over the woven glass with a thickened resin to give an even surface to apply a few layers of new glass and I packed some thickened resin down into the separation of the outer layer glass and the woven. It was supposed to rain last night. Didn’t want any water making its way down in there. Figured if I was wrong in doing this it could easily be ground down again. Can I go ahead and lay a couple layers of glass to start the repair or so you recommend grinding till I find an area not separated? I attached a pic of the area after I applied a skim coat of thickened resin. If it’s safe to continue the repair I will sand it then start applying a few layers of chop strand, fair, the gel coat.

Thats a loaded question. I've seen open chines that would go on for a few inches or a few feet. Possibly you could take a chunk of fishing line and see how far it goes in? Just shooting fish in a barrell here....

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I also have and area on the chine that is damaged and very similar to this. The outer layers are damaged about the size of a nickel and I can see woven glass behind it. This is below the water line obviously. What repair procedure would you recommend for this area. I will be tackling this next. I figured I would start with the repair above the water line before as kind of a practice before I did anything below the water line. I can get a picture of this area later

Same basic procedure, grind out the damage, fill. 3M Marine high strength filler or other below the waterline epoxies would work well.