CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

[alcan]

I have a 1990 40hp evin. mod.# E40TEESR ser.#G02508599. It has the CD2UL ignit. system. I am just not getting the performance I feel I should. It dosn't feel like it's turning up full RPM. I don't have a test tack. I've gone over this motor several times in the past year. Fuel system,cooling system,jet pump,ignit. I've checked the sync. I also disconected (don't use) the vro. My question concerns this S.L.O.W. feature (speed limiting overheat warning)mode. Is it possable that the ignit module is stuck in slow mode. The cooling system is fine, motor dose not overheat and never has. I don't have an OEM manual for this late a model so I am reling on an after market copy and it dosen't cover any test procedures reguarding this. I assume the ignit. module gets a signal from the heat sending unit and drops rpm? Compression tests good also.

 

[clanton]

Re: CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

When S.L.O.W. is engaged it reduces rpms to app 2000. One test is to ground the tan temp sensor wire to block while running full throttle, if SLOW is working the rpm will drop to app 2000. You can also unplug the tan wire to power pack, which will bypass the sensor. I would check the pack wires to coil, try a different coil. Sparkplug wires must be good condition. Charging system must be in good working order. A flakly system that was changed I think in 1994. Repair has something on this system, I will look later today.

 

[clanton]

Re: CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

Check the black roller that advances the timing arm, and the one that advances the carb linkage. These rollers have a clear plastic sleeve over the black plastic, the clear plastic splits and come off of the roller. The ones I have checked loses about 4/5 timimg degrees at the full advance, and the carb plates may not be opening fully. Final timing should be check at 5000 rpm while engine under load.

 

[alcan]

Re: CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

Thank you Clanton<br /> I've done a serch on SLOW on the board here and have been reading some of your previous posts on the subject. My charging system is in good order and batteries are fairly new. I will try disconecting the tan wire to the heat sencer. I won't be able to test until this weekend, as I don't have a tank large enough for a high speed test. My plugs,plug wires,Ignit. coils are all in top shape. When I unplug the tan wire and the rpm indeed comes up then I have a bad sencer? If nothing happens, can I get a new pack w/o the slow feature. I agree a flaky system.

 

[alcan]

Re: CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

Sorry clanton <br /> you'll have to bear with me as I don't know how to type, I'm slower than this motor. But yes, I have checked the throtle plates and they open full. The sync is fine. I did try to advance the timer plate a little (made no differnce). I will look into the plastic sleves on the rollers.

 

[Bear]

Re: CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

The 1994 OMC Quick-start Info sheet

 

[alcan]

Re: CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

Thank you Bear<br /> Iam going to eat some dinner then test my heat sencer. I am willing to bet it's fine. From what I understand at this point, I have to replace the power pack with the same lame system.

 

[alcan]

Re: CD2UL ignit. S.L.O.W.

Thanks Gentlemen for the help. I tested the heat sensor and as suspected it's good. I replaced the power pack, problem solved. I found the keeper clip wire that holds the pin plug together for the killswitch had shorted out to the terminals on the bus bar. The plug was tucked neatly up under the bus bar. Burnt one end completely off the clip and melted the rubber plug. Fortuneatly the rectifier and charging system are fine. Lucky, all I would have needed is some good fuel vapor and I could of had a rocket ship instead of jet boat.