changing stator on 1970 1150

[johnnyrudeinator]

I picked up a new stator the other day and do not have a manual...I want a "real" manual and they are VERY hard to come by. The question is I read on another post that you could access the stator by pulling the small fine thread bolts and not the large nut holding the flywheel on. Is this true? If so can the stator be changed without removing the flywheel? I was under the impression that you had to remove the flywheel. Is there a way to do this without the flywheel puller?? I have some pullers just not the Merc puller. Thanks for you help. This is an awsome site. Its the reason I didn't make this engine a "black anchor" as I was told to do. It'll push my 330V 40MPH with a 19 pitch prop! Heavy boat.

 

[Jimmy70]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Johnny
Yes this can be done as I just done it myself.
1. Remove the plugs and get #1 top dead center, you can turn the engine over by hand.
2. The pointer should be aligned with a dot or dots on the side of the flywheel.
3. Get a black marker and mark the top of the flywheel to the pointer.
4. Now those 8 fine thread bolts are put in with some lock tite so they are hard to break loose so you will have to hold the fly wheel someway or other. I used a air impact wrench to get mine loose, much easier that away.
5. Once you remove the bolts you lift off the fly wheel, but don't drop it as it will mess up the magnetic field, so they say in the book.
6. Remove the 4 bolts holding the stator in place and replace unit.
7. When replacing the fly wheel be careful as the field is strong so you don't want to ding the wires on the stator.
8. Put the fly wheel back in the same place with the marker aligned with the pointer and you should have it aligned correctly as long as you did not move the crank. If so make sure the markers on the fly wheel are aligned with the pointer again.

Good luck
Jimmy70

 

[johnnyrudeinator]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Thanks alot!! Now I don't have to find a puller...the wiring is bad on my old stator...stator is fine I think..I'm going to pull it and resolder new wires on it and have a spare...now I'm going to get a radio shack rectifier and hopefully not have to hook my charger up to the boat before I go everytime and spend my time charging the trolling motor.....lol Thanks again!

 

[glowbox]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

1. Remove the plugs and get #1 top dead center, you can turn the engine over by hand.
2. The pointer should be aligned with a dot or dots on the side of the flywheel.
3. Get a black marker and mark the top of the flywheel to the pointer.
4. Now those 8 fine thread bolts are put in with some lock tite so they are hard to break loose so you will have to hold the fly wheel someway or other. I used a air impact wrench to get mine loose, much easier that away.
5. Once you remove the bolts you lift off the fly wheel, but don't drop it as it will mess up the magnetic field, so they say in the book.
6. Remove the 4 bolts holding the stator in place and replace unit.
7. When replacing the fly wheel be careful as the field is strong so you don't want to ding the wires on the stator.
8. Put the fly wheel back in the same place with the marker aligned with the pointer and you should have it aligned correctly as long as you did not move the crank. If so make sure the markers on the fly wheel are aligned with the pointer again.

i have a 75 or 76 merc 1150. inline 6. s# 4395892. (can someone verify that year?)

i am curious if this same procedure can be done on my rig. also, cant you skip steps 1 and 2 and just start with step 3 and just make sure not to move the crank?

too bad for these old merc wires

 

[Chris1956]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Glowbox, The procedure is the same for your distributor ignition, inline six. You can skip steps 1+2, if you mark the flywheel properly. If you mess up, go back to step 1.

 

[glowbox]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Chris1956, thanks for the info man. im trying to decide weather or not to replace the stator or solder new wiring to it. after reading a thread about engine fires due to silver stator wires being spliced to copper i think i may just bite it and spend the money on the stator. $306 bucks. dern.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Solder them on. That stator has so little current(max 6A @ 12ADC), it is nearly harmless.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Sorry that should be (Max 6A at 12VAC). 72Watts

 

[glowbox]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

so then as long as the wire i solder on is the same gauge it should be just fine huh? im hoping when it pull this sucker off that there will be enough 'good' wire coming from the stator to use. the length that runs down the side of the engine just turned to dust and fragments right when i touched it. didnt look to be silver to me but then again it could have been discolored due to oldness and heat etc.. preesh the advice to solder it chris1956. prolly just saved me a couple bonus checks.

oh, another thing.. is the current so low cuz it only is charging the battery? and is s#4395892 1975 or 1976 model? or does it matter?

 

[Chris1956]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Yes, That stator only charges the battery.

The original wire was marine-grade wire. Marine-grade wire is copper stranded, with more strands then in non-marine wire. Each strand is tinned for corrosion resistance.

 

[glowbox]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

i dont seem to have any marine-grade wire around. if the gauge is the same can i get away with standard wire or will it get too hot?

 

[Chris1956]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Regular wire of the same gauge is fine

 

[ajgraz]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

Don't bother trying to solder those old stator wires. With the corrosion that's likely on them, it just won't stick. Use some adhesive heat-shrink crimp-on butt connectors instead.

At least use copper, multi-strand wire, like you might find at NAPA for auto chassis wiring. 16 AWG would be perfect. And make sure the ring terminals you crimp on are also adhesive heat-shrunk. You want to be sure no un-tinned copper wire is exposed to the air.

 

[glowbox]

Re: changing stator on 1970 1150

i found some 10 gauge multi-strand in the shed. i gently scuffed the old wires with sandpaper and soldered the new wires on and finished by heat shrinking the length of both with new ring terminals. bout to take it to the ramp and try it out.