Changing Water Pump - Gear Case Oil

[hbron]

Guys,

I am now sure servicing my water pump is in order after my boat was not run for 3 years, regardless of stream from tell-tale. I also intend to change the lower gear case oil.

What order should they be done?

It seems to me that I should empty the gear case, then do the water pump, reattach, then fill gear case?

 

[Vic.S]

Re: Changing Water Pump - Gear Case Oil

It matters not.

but it would be good idea to drain the oil early in the proceedings then you will know if there is water in there.

You would not want to complete the water pump job and then find you had to take it all down again to replace the drive shaft seals.

What you propose is the logical sequence.

 

[hbron]

Re: Changing Water Pump - Gear Case Oil

Vic,

Is changing the drive shaft seals major and something to avoid UNLESS there is water in the lower unit?

If it is easy when I have it apart.....and just a few cheap parts...should I consider it?

 

[hbron]

Servicing Water Pump - Gear Case Oil Rude 140

Servicing Water Pump - Gear Case Oil Rude 140

Does anybody have any good visuals on the water pump servicing process...especially for a Rude 140?

 

[itsaboattime]

Re: Changing Water Pump - Gear Case Oil

Glad you decided to change it out.
Try this video. It's not for your exact outboard, but the pump is similiar in it's assembly. Your pump is much bigger and pumps alot more water.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fj1c4oYpHAw

I would drain the oil out of the lower unit before I dropped it outta the midsection.

Then change out the water pump and check all the seals. If any appear to be rotted or chewed up or shot, now is the time to replace them.

Check the waterpump in a tank with a drill like I told ya before. Install the lower unit making sure you get the copper tube into the water pump correctly.

Refill lower unit oil.

 

[jtexas]

Re: Changing Water Pump - Gear Case Oil

Whatever you do, do not, repeat *DO NOT* under any circumstances use any kind of tool at all on the drive shaft splines. (Except the "special tool" made by BRP specifically to fit the splines). Not even a drill with some kind of hose to protect it. That drive shaft is a very expensive precision machined part. Not to mention which, there's no point testing the water pump like that. Once it's off, replace the impeller, grommets and gaskets, and the base pressure plate. They are cheap. If the metal inner housing liner is scored, replace it, too.

yeah, the drive shaft seal is a pretty challenging DIY job. you can't visually inspect it, but you know it's good if there's no water in the L/U.

note that the shift shaft height is adjusted by screwing it in or out, so don't twist it once you have it off, else it won't fit right when you reinstall.

Manual calls for OMC Adhesive M on the joint between exhaust housing and lower unit; that's been superceded by 3m #847, but permatex #2 works, too. It's optional, though a lot of guys just leave it bare. I use 847, it's better to work with and cleans up easier.