Does anybody out there have gunstock/pistol grip checkering experiance?<br /><br />I have the master set from DEM-BART with tool numbers c-1, F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4 and S-1 in 24 lines per inch.<br /><br />What I need to know is what steps (in order) that I need to start to get this right.<br /><br />I have been practicing and I can do it....but it does not come out CLEAN like I want it to.<br /><br />I know that it has to be the steps I am doing it in from the start that is comeing back to bite me in the end.<br /><br />It comes out with a differant problem every time....Uneven depth or broken dimond tips, some times my lines are just slightly uneven (I HATE THAT....I am a perfectionest when it comes to artful things) or sometimes its all of the above.<br /><br />The more I try to fix it as I am going....the worse another problem gets.<br /><br />I found out that Cedar wood is not a good practice blank to work on....too soft. I have one walnut pistol blank left to work with (it's just a scrap left over from a set of grips I put on a 45 acp awhile back.), after that is gone I have a small piece of cherry to work on and then I'll have to hunt down some wood.<br /><br />The wood I will be putting on my next pistol is Paduke....pumkin orange and slightly grainy when raw, but turns a nice color of plum wine when oiled....I don't want to mess it up with a bad checkering job.<br /><br />No offence guys, but if you can't do this cleanly you wont be able to help me.<br /><br />To date I have: Started by doing my borders to depth and then doing all of my vertical lines, finaly doing my horizontal lines to finish....each one to depth.<br /><br />I tried to correct by not doing my vert. and horiz. lines to depth....but instead outlineing them with the space cutter....that did not work as well as I thought it would, maybe I'm still cutting to deep.<br /><br />I think I might also benifit from a guide of sorts....not sure what I could use for that though.<br /><br />Thanks in advance!<br /><br />checkerwood.