Chrysler 105 and 125 combo Maybe

[alldodge]

Back in 2015 I picked up a Chrysler 105 Conqueror with a 105 hp OB. Well the OB had a cracked block so could not use it. Frank mentioned before his passing that I should look for a pre 1994 Force 120 hp and swap the cowling. In looking I found what I thought was a 140, but might just be a later model 125 because of the ignition.

The 105 has a leg which is 3.5 inches shorter then the 125, and the 125 uses the newer prop and leg.

So today I'm trying to take the 125 apart to look at the water pump, change lube, impeller and see what I have to work with. Removed the prop nut and the prop is seized to the shaft. Removed all the bolts (I think), cotter pin and the leg will not come off. I can wiggle it, but something is holding it. Removed the bolts holding the exhaust cover, but it is hung up in the bottom corners only.

The 125 has trim but pivot pin is also seized. So the 105 is in good shape and could swap the motor to the 105, but then I have the old style leg and hard to find props.

So need suggestion how to get the parts off the 125 and anything else ya'll may think of

 

[jerryjerry05]

You might need a soft blow hammer or make one from a couple pieces of wood?
Hit the rear cavitation plate and hope it comes out?

The 125 is a long shaft 25"and the 105 looks like a short shaft 20"

Pivot pin or kingpin? They both can be freed by using a propane torch and some grease.

The kingpin area, DON"T add grease until you heat the whole area or you can pop the zerks out.
Top and bottom f the kingpin, there should be a bushing, it can handle some heat but can be melted, so not to hot there.
The grease is 35+ years old and probably real hard by now.

I added 2 zerks to my kingpin area. One on the top bushing and one on the bottom.

It helped get grease in and let the old grease out.
Don't install the bottom zerk until the grease gets hot and you can add grease t the top.

Pivot pin: again heat and get the zerks hot.

 

[alldodge]

Have a dead blow and used it a few time but didn't want to hit it much in case I missed something. Will try some more come Monday, going to Mom's for Easter

Is there anything that is keeping the rear shield from coming off at the bottom corner where the hung arrow is?

 

[Nordin]

I think there is a location pin where the hung arrow is pointing.

It is maybe stuck from the white "rust" stuff that all old salt water engines are exposed to.

I am not sure because I have not worked on the 1 piece gearcase so much. Just at some 90Hp Force with dual exhaust style.

Is there a long bolt at the lower housing where the exhaust snout is localized that you not have removed?.

 

[jerryjerry05]

There IS a locating pin in that area.
I see in the pics that your trying to take the cover off.
Tap with a dead blow and pry it off..
Why are you taking that apart?

 

[alldodge]

Is there a long bolt at the lower housing where the exhaust snout is localized that you not have removed?.

Guess it depends on how long is long. Removed a short bolt and the exhaust snout moved to one side. Was another loose bolt real close to the very rear, but would not under the upper section so did not remove all the way. There was another under the snout that I removed which was about 2 inches

Why are you taking that apart?

Started just to see if there was something under it that was holding something. now I know its a non-issue with removing the lower section, I just going to remove, to clean it up and check exhaust boot

 

[alldodge]

The gasket has a lot of silicone all over it, along with what appears a mouse had a nest. The shaft is corroded down low, so will sand that off before taking the pump apart.

Placed the prop shaft straight up and letting is soak with PB Blaster.
Once my new fuel line comes in I'll connect a hose to the tube going to the motor. This way I can turn water hose on and let it keep cool that way.







Anyone ever run AMSOIL 100:1 in these motors?

 

[alldodge]

Did find out the trim pump works but its real slow, I mean real slow. Probably take the pump apart and see if I can get it freed up

If the motor runs good, might take the motor off the lower so I can get everything working correctly, then reinstall. Still thinking about using the 105 lower because it would keep me from raising the height to use this unit. Only big issue is finding a prop

 

[alldodge]

Being thinking some more, if I find a 90's something Force 85 to 120 motor, will my Chrysler 125 motor mount on the leg?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Unless it's past a 95 the blocks should swap.
They started using Mercury style transom clamps in 90
The bolt holes won't line up, the shift linkage changed
about the same time or close to then??


The drives you have won't swap to the other motor.
One's too long and the other would be too short.
Measure the shafts from the base under the pump.

Slow trim pump: could be the tilt pin is seized and making it hard to operate.

 

[alldodge]

Well that was a bit scary

Connected the fuel line and primed it up. Carb was leaking a little fuel out, but it fired up and went to WOT. Could not get it to idle down, idle was set to high I guess because pulling it back did nothing. Pulled the fuel line off and got out of the way.

Didn't take very long but felt like it. Was figuring any moment it was going to come apart, but it started to slow and I got back to it and chocked it down.

The water hose came off when running and it got kind of hot, just hope nothing cracked

 

[alldodge]

Found out why the key didn't turn if OFF, no ground wire attached to the other magneto connection. I should have checked the guys wiring before try to start

 

[alldodge]

Also my bad with the run away, the linkage was not all the way to the rear, just a slight movement goes from idle to wide open. Hey just like a lawn mower. In any case, hooked back up and it has a slight miss in it but I have doe nothing to the motor yet except fire it up. Need some carb work later

 

[jerryjerry05]

A slight miss?? could be the air screws need adjusting.