Chrysler 105 Charger

[JCNailen]

Little history first... I bought this boat/motor for $75! Yep, you heard right, $75. I already sold the rack and pinion steering for $80, so I'm $5 ahead. The guy said the motor is really, really hard to start, but once it's going, it will start all day long. Turned out to be a broken wire at the choke. He also said the trim motor only goes down, not up. You guessed it... a broken wire at the plug on the trim motor harness.

While I was taking the motor and controls off the old boat to mount on one of my boats, I found this unusual device that was wired into the controls box. Anyone know what it is? I'm thinking it is some sort of signal device - perhaps an over temp buzzer? I thought about taking off the wires and running 12v across the connections to see if it buzzes, but if it is something other than that I don't want to burn up some device that I really need.

I will be testing the compression in a few days, but everything seems fine so far. Does anyone have any insight into this motor for me? The model is a 1055HB and serial 1341. From what I can find so far, I think it is a 1976 model. But what significance is the "Charger" logo?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Chrysler 105 Charger

Overheat buzzer.probabably a 75/76 year. Charger is just a name.Makes it sound FAST!!!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler 105 Charger

View attachment 84368

Yep! Overheat buzzer, and from the looks of it, it will not work, so replace it as a matter of course.
Chrysler used the name "Charger" on several engines, notably the 105 and later the 4 cylinder 90. They also used the name "Skier" on the 75 for a while. Simply graphics and marketing.

Your engine has the later 2 piece lower unit so yes, it will be somewhere between '76 and '78. In 1979 they developed the one piece lower unit.

Your 105 has the small 1 5/16 venturi diameter WB carbs. This engine was rated at the powerhead and really only delivered about 90 horses at the prop. Indeed, in the early '80s, it was derated to a 90 and called the 90 Charger.

Since ALL four cylinder blocks were substantially the same, it is possible to squeek out a couple of horsepower by changing the carbs. I know, I know! I am one of the ones that says you can't just change carbs and increase horsepower. However, in this case, the size of the replacement carb venturis is so much greater that yes you can gain a COUPLE of horsepower. Make it a good solid 90 and it is relatively cheap. It only takes about 1/2 to 1 hour of easy work. No matter what you do, read the post in FAQs at the top of the page and set and synchronize the carbs and timing. Timing on your engine is 32 BTDC at wide open throttle.

Simply remove the WB carbs and manifolds., Find a blown Chrysler 120 or 140, OR a Force 120 or 125. Remove the manifolds and TC carbs and install them on your 105. TC carbs are 1 5/8 dimeter venturi and will pass much more air. If you use your original reeds and Vee blocks, open up the reed stop plates about 1/16 more. That's my 105 in the avatar and here are a couple more photos. The red carb covers are actually on a 140 but as you can see, the blocks are the same. The other photo is of a typical manifold and reed plate although the reeds are later Force square reed petals which are just a bit less durable than the Chrysler reeds.

Incidentally, the props for the two piece lower unit are becoming a bit difficult to find. You can not have them repaired since hubs are no longer made for them and you can not buy a new one. If you search ebay you can find a couple but they tend to be expensive. You can also find props at old Chrysler dealers such as franzmarine.com, but again, they tend to be expensive. FORCE props and Chrysler props after 1979 will NOT fit. Your prop shaft is 18 splines with a thrust pin (5/16) in the front of the hub. Prop it to run as close to 5500 at wide open throttle as possible. Correct operating range is 4500-5500 at WOT with rated horsepower developed at 5000, but they like to run fast.

Your engine has the two wire distributor so although it does not say "electronic" on it, it will have an electric eye inside. This is just a little more precise than points signaling the CD box. The Motorola CD ignition is relatively trouble-free although they do sometimes fail. Do not set the distributor drive belt too tight! This will cause problems shifting in and out of gear. Correct tension is set when a .010 feeler gauge pressed into the center of the belt deflects the belt about 1/8 to 3/16 inch before bending.

I suggest that you replace the water pump impeller before you run the engine on the water and check then change the lower unit oil. replace the fuel pump diaphragm and you should be ready to go. These parts are still available. Try a site like old outboard parts or franzmarine @aol.com

The 105 is a nice, simple, yet rugged engine. Set the carbs correctly, keep 50-1 gas to oil in it, don't run over any rocks, change the water pump impeller regularly, and she may very well outlive you.