Chrysler 35Hp info

[Mike722]

Dad has a 355HD serial is either 1654 or 1854, i forgot to write it down. What year is it?

Also, the other night the engine would not go over half throttle and then just quit. I have no spark on either plug. I am assuming, until I can get the flywheel off that the coils are bad. I also found the flywheel was rubbing a black ground wire on the right hand side.

Dad swears that the last time he could not get the motor running he found the heat sensor broke off and the only way he could get it going was to tape the sensor back together. The overheat circuit seems like a simple ground when overheating, to either ground the IGN out and/or ground path for a horn.

Will the engine run without the heat sensor hooked up and does anyone know if and where I can order a different sensor?

Thanks for all your help

 

[AOMRESP]

Re: Chrysler 35Hp info

1975

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Chrysler 35Hp info

355HD was from 1974 according to one listing and from 1972 according to another listing. I am suprised that motor even has a heat sensor. If it does have one it will be connected to the orange wire on the terminal strip on the port side of the motor. My guess is if you disconnect it from the terminal strip that the motor should run without it.

 

[Mike722]

Re: Chrysler 35Hp info

Dad believes they purchased it used in 74. I hope to work on it this week after the day job and will update later.

 

[Mike722]

Re: Chrysler 35Hp info

The serial number is 355HD 1615. I found the old Mississippi title new in 72. I got a service manual, however, it wants you to use an IGN tester. Does anyone know the resistance measurements I can use to test the coils?

When I got the flywheel off, I found that the right coil has a ground wire going from the coil to the engine block was rubbed to the wire and the plug wire was being rubbed, but not thru the insulation yet.

This is the style with the two coils and points under the flywheel.

Thanks

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler 35Hp info

There will be one wire coming off each set of points. they go to the blue and white wires on the terminal block then to the two "M" terminals on the switch. When you turn off the switch, the "M" terminals have continuity and the points are shorted through each other, shutting down the engine. These wires are USUALLY a brown pair that looks like lamp cord. If they are not, it is probable that someone has replaced them-- probably because of the same problem--shorting.

Thus: if one of the wires is rubbed to the core and shorting against the flywheel or some other part of the engine, the engine will not run.

Once you pull the flywheel, check the condition of the points and condensers. These are the most likely culprits. Points tend to arc and pit. With age, the condenser cases tend to crack and short out. Sometimes the condenser wires rub against the flywheel, shorting out. Points and condensers are still available. Set points to .020 at the arrow or mark on the high point of the cam (you will see it.) Be sure to torque down the flywheel nut when replacing. If not properly torqued, these engines tend to spin the flywheel, shearing the key--very annoying. I have not seen many with bad magneto coils, but they do age and sometimes the insulation cracks or the fine wire breaks, so that's another thing to check.

The orange wire is overheat or temp gauge--whichever one you have. Power from the "I" terminal on the switch goes to one side of the indicator. Orange on the other side goes to ground when the sensor closes due to high heat and the indicator will light or buzz only when the ignition key is on. It should be independent, BUT ---If one of the point ground wires is attached to it instead of a power wire, when the sensor closes, the engine will stop. If the sensor is broken off, it should not affect anything if properly wired.

 

[Mike722]

Re: Chrysler 35Hp info

Thanks for the info Frank, I just got back from the lake and the engine is running again.

The wire that was rubbed thru was a ground wire from the top of the right coil armature down to the engine block. The lamp wires were orginal and still good.

When I first looked at the engine, I checked spark by removing the plugs and holding against the engine block. Since the engine was acting like it did back in 93 when the coils were replaced by a repair shop, I assumed that they maybe bad again. They indicated at that time that Chryslers were bad at damaging coils, especially in rough water.

My rookie mistake was forgeting that most problems are the simple things and I should have checked spark with a tester instead of the current plugs. After testing with the spark tester, I found that the plugs were fouled or bad.

The only good thing is that I would not have found the flywheel rubbing the plug wire if I had not taken it off thinking the coils maybe bad.

New plugs, cleaned and adjusted points, and it runs like a top again. I forgot my torque wrench today, so I do need to go back and recheck it.