Chrysler Force 75hp auto choke problems

[jd7300]

Hi there,

I need a little info about the auto chokes on these Chrysler engines. I have been struggling to get my engine to start and I have now realised that its because the auto choke isnt doing its thing. I have tested the choke solenoid and it fires ok so I recon it must be a problem with the wiring somewhere.

Now the guy I bought the boat from had done a little fiddeling around with things so I am not sure if the wiring is all ok or not. I need to understand how the choke is meant to work.....as I understand it is as follows:

Turn the ignition key and the as the starter motor engages the auto choke solenoid should fire. The solenoid should then relax when the ignition key is released. Am I right??

If so the solenoid should be conected to the same terminal on the ignition switch as the starter motor - right??

Any info would be great.....

Thanks.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Chrysler Force 75hp auto choke problems

It always irks me when I hear of people selling an engine and not telling the buyer the correct starting sequence. It's not your fault--it's not your engine.

Anyway-----There is no "auto-choke."

Correct starting sequence is: First start of the day, prime the carbs with the fuel bulb. Pull out the silver knob or lever on the Chrysler Control Box. This disengages the shift. Push the handle as far forward as it will go. This is fast idle position. Some Chrysler engines just will not start at all unless for the first start the engine is in fast idle position.

Now, turn the key to start position while simultaneously pushing in to energise the choke. When the engine fires, release the key. Let it warm-up a little then pull the control lever back to upright neutral position. Push in the silver knob and you are ready to go. Quicly move the control lever about 1/3 of the way to engage the dog clutches and put the engine in either gear. DO NOT EASE IT. This is harmful.

Warm starts usually do not require choking or putting the control handle in fast idle position. Warm-up in fast idle position varies from engine to engine. If you take it out too soon, the engine will stall. Just restart it -- probably without choking this time.

If, when you push in the key, the chokes do not click closed, and you will hear them, first check the gaskets on the air box between it and the carbs. They swell and sometimes interfere with the carb choke levers. Then check to be sure that all choke levers move freely. Finally with someone's help, check to see that there is 12 volts at the choke solenoid. If no voltage, look for a broken wire (green) wire disconnected from the "C" terminal on the ignition switch, or a bad switch. If you have voltage at the solenoid, check it for continuity. If it is open or shorted, then you need another. They very rarely go bad so this is the last thing to check.

By the way: Since you have an unknown engine you need to assume that it has some maintenance problems--first and most importantly a worn water pump impeller. Go to The Chrysler Crew and buy a new impeller--cheap insurance. If you decide for whatever reason that you do not wish to change the impeller immediately, with the engine in the water check the two holes in the rear shroud. It should be spitting out plenty of water--even at idle. And for God's sake, be certain that an overheat alarm is installed AND functional. Overheating is one of the primary reasons an outboard is damaged to the point it needs rebuilding.

Secondly, replace the puel pump diaphragm and gasket to ensure proper fuel delivery. They are only a couple of bucks.

Third, change the lower unit oil and inspect the old oil to see if it has water in it. This is usually indicated by a milky color of even free water draining from the gearcase.