Clicking / pulsating noise and won't turn over

[Shade Tree boy]

1995 Four Winns Freedom with a 4.3 liter OMC.
OK so its spring and I wanted to take the family out for a day at the lake but no dice. Uncovered the boat,cleaned her up, and the engine won't start. Won't even turn over. Just a clicking noise..sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't even click. I put the batter on the charger. 100% charge so it's definitely not that. What could this be? solenoid? Starter? There aren't too many possibilities. All input is appreciated!

 

[MikDee]

Re: Clicking / pulsating noise and won't turn over

Clean those battery terminals Good! Then put some diaelectric grease on them. You'd be surprised how much power you lose through dull looking, or corroded terminals.

 

[triscadek209]

Re: Clicking / pulsating noise and won't turn over

Yep and check your grounds. they get nasty over the winter. Go with the starter first you may need to take it to autozone and have it tested for free. Mine was kinda doing the same thing but was a seized upper unit. If it turns then click click click click its a voltage or starter issue. Also, when u crank it, make sure the pulley for the fly wheel is at least trying to turn so u know the motor isnt seized. you might try hooking it up to/jumping it off a vehicle with a high amperage alternator also to see where that gets u. Diesels are the best since theyre typically 130-160amps plus two batterys.

 

[triscadek209]

Re: Clicking / pulsating noise and won't turn over

Another thing is it could just be the battery. This last week on my motorcycle I can put it on the charger all day, pull it off and the battery shows 12.4V but when I hit the starter it wont start the bike. Jumper cables cranked it over slowly off my Dodge Ram. Definitely the battery. Even though It shows 12V off a handheld volt meter when I crank it it was dropping to 6V and clicking. The battery may seem charged but is just so far gone it wont hold amperage.

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: Clicking / pulsating noise and won't turn over

if you're going to put dielectric grease on the cables that's fine as a protective layer after they're clean, but don't put it on the bare connections or terminals pre-assembly.
Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity.
Most regular grease conducts but I like clean and dry. Same way OMC did it new.
p.s. Do not use anti-seize compound. How something with flakes of copper in it can insulate so well I don't know but it's also very much an insulator.

 

[gm280]

Re: Clicking / pulsating noise and won't turn over

I had much the very same issue with my lawn mower this spring as well. And I too thought battery, but a new battery did the same thing (I just didn't replace the battery, it was bad and would not take a charge anymore). So even with jumper cables, it still was slow trying to start. So again I took off the starter and reworked it as well. And I also took the starter solenoid off and ohmed it out and energized it with a power supply and meter too and took readings. It all tested good, but still a problem after much trying to start. I even reworked all the cable ends until they were bright and shiny too. But is still clicked and occasional would spin the starter and fire up.

I scratch my head for a while and decided to remove the starter solenoid and open it up. That was the problem. The contacts inside that solenoid were charcoal black and so even though they would read correctly with an ohm meter and pull in when energized they wouldn't allow huge amounts of current to flow. After wire brushing all those contacts inside the starter solenoid to bright shiny surfaces and reassembling it again, I get instant start every time now. I can't turn the key without it starting now...

I know I could have bought a simple replacement solenoid, but I just cleaned the old one to like new condition and it works great... So a good lesson learned on my part! :joyous:

 

[Shade Tree boy]

Re: Clicking / pulsating noise and won't turn over

Clean those battery terminals Good! Then put some diaelectric grease on them. You'd be surprised how much power you lose through dull looking, or corroded terminals.

Thank you MikDee. That is all it took. I got my wire brush and some sand paper and popped the top on samuel adams. 10 minutes later I had shiny battery cables and good clean battery terminals. Coated the terminals with the diaelectric grease, tightened down the wing nuts to the battery and bam! She started up as soon as I hit the key. Was as if she never went to sleep for 5 months. I'm sure the new spark plugs at winterization last fall played a part in facilitating the nice easy start.
I don't consider myself a rookie handyman, but I sure didn't realize how much power loss can result from dirty electrical connections. Having the battery removed from the boat all winter, collecting dust in the garage, while the battery terminals inside the boat battled condensation and oxidation all combined to create a circumstance unlike what we generally see in an automobile that gets regular use. Also, I am not used to disconnecting a battery for months at a time. That in itself is what allowed the oxidation to compromise the connection. Great and humbling lesson, and it didn't cost me a dime in repairs.. (knock on wood) Anyway..my family finally got that boat ride yesterday under a bright warm Tennessee sun. Thanks again and have a great season!