Closed cooling system

Dunaruna

Admiral
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
6,027
I'm hoping for some advice on an overheating problem that I inherited a couple of years ago. 302w (1976), 280 vp, closed cooling system, 14" long X 5" diameter heatexchanger (oil cooler built in) with 3 gallon tank, Johnston 3/4" raw water pump. Up to 2000rpm runs constantly at 180F but as soon as revs increase the temp increases quickly, slow down to 2000rpm and temp quickly falls. The list of replaced parts is extensive. No leaks, very clean raw and closed sytems. I probable over thinking this and someone will come back with an obvious solution (hopefully). Thanks in advance. Aldo
 

navigator336

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 27, 2003
Messages
270
Re: Closed cooling system

One common cause of the overheating you describe is pieces of an old raw water pump impeller lodged downstream in the heat exchanger or transmission cooler. You get enough flow around the pieces during low rpm's to keep it nice and cool, but not at higher rpm's. Could also be a partially clogged raw water strainer if your boat has one. It could also be a lot of other things, but I'd start with these first, especially if you replaced a damaged impeller (one missing some lobes) and didn't find the broken off pieces.
 

MrBill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
710
Re: Closed cooling system

Virtually all closed cooling systems tend to 'cool' best when at idle. The engine is not under load and it is producing heat at the lowest possible level. Rarely do cooling systems (boats particulary) proportionally disperse or exchange heat at the rate produced by loading and increasing engine RPM. A properly designed system should, however, maintain adequate cooling throughout the engines operating range. Extreme summertime conditions can often impact optimal cooling but in most instances, adequate circulation and flow rate dictate cooling capacity. The flow rates of both the raw and closed sides must be adequate to maintain proper cooling, it sounds like one or both must be impeded. If you've replaced the components that drive circulation (impeller, water pump) the next obvious issue lies in restricted flow. Don't assume this can only happen on the raw water side, although it is less likely. When running on muffs, is the exhast water really hot? If so, the flow restriction more probably lies on the raw water side. If cool or cold, the restriction more likely lies on the closed side.<br /><br />Navigator336 brings up a good point that often causes restriction in flow, and you can also consider that an exhaust flapper could have lodged down in the lower outdrive. I would dismantle the raw water components of the cooling system (heat exchanger, hoses, etc.) and make sure no restrictions exist. Then check exhaust risers, connections and elbows for restrictions. Remove thermostat and check flow through engine block by pumping (running) coolant (water) through the closed portion of the system. Coolant should flow easily through the system, obstructions are also potential problems in the closed portion of the heat exchanger, you'll need to check the inside of the closed coolant tube that runs through the exchanger. It is obvious that the exchanger at idle is doing the job at that rate of heat production and flow, but can not keep up with the increased production of heat. Flow is simply not increasing adequately or at all, to keep up with the increased heat load.<br /><br />I'm assuming that at one time, the system worked adequately, even though a 14" long exchanger seems small. On a smaller engine (224cid) mine is about 26 inches long at 4" diameter. The same engine, for some years outfitted with a 3" diameter exchanger, did not adequately cool at high end operation.
 

Dunaruna

Admiral
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
6,027
Re: Closed cooling system

My mistake with cm to inch conversion - total heatexchanger length is 17" with a 5" oil cooler built in. Looking at other V8 boats in the marina my exchanger looks adequate in size. Both sides of the system are clean (dismantled exchanger, flushed block etc.) Water flow from raw pump at 1500rpm is approx. 4 gallons every 20 seconds. Manifolds near new and spotless. Water exits freely from exhaust. I live near a freshwater lake so rarely run on muffs - but it doesnt make any difference to the temp. The raw water pump size is my next target, I think the flow rate is o/k at 1500rpm but maybe inadequate at high rpm. Is there a performance scale for these? It has been suggested that it may be spinning to fast! 6" pulley on engine - 3" pulley on pump, at 2500rpm the pump is spinning at 5000rpm. This weekend I'll try and do a flow test at higher rpm. Thanks. Aldo
 
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