Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

[geedubcpa]

2 questions

If I am making an aluminum patch - what thickness of aluminum should i use as compared to the area I am patching, and second question - is there any good links to purchase closed end pop rivets online in smaller quantities like 100 or so.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

Fastenall with local distributors seems to be the best for pop rivets. There are a few others but that is where I got all of mine.

Pics would really help to determine what is needed for the patch

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

I buy all of my rivets and rivet tools from Jay-Cees online:

blind rivets, pop rivets

They've got any kind of rivet you'll ever need and quick shipping.


iboats member efdog did a good patch job on his boat and documented it for others to see:

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/tracker-hull-damage-lots-536250.html

 

[jvanhees]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

I buy all of my rivets and rivet tools from Jay-Cees online:

blind rivets, pop rivets

They've got any kind of rivet you'll ever need and quick shipping.


iboats member efdog did a good patch job on his boat and documented it for others to see:

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/tracker-hull-damage-lots-536250.html

That is where I bought mine from, like $26 for 100. Got my extra large HD rivet gun from harbor freight too.

 

[geedubcpa]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

That was a really good link for making the patches - I am getting a few areas welded but am worried about them cracking in the future - I think this is a good backup plan - I have 4 small cracks similar to what he has.

 

[jvanhees]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

can anyone provide an example of a patch on the center of the keel, one that would have to be bent to match the hull?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

can anyone provide an example of a patch on the center of the keel, one that would have to be bent to match the hull?

Sent you a PM

 

[Watermann]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

That was a really good link for making the patches - I am getting a few areas welded but am worried about them cracking in the future - I think this is a good backup plan - I have 4 small cracks similar to what he has.

A lot of guys shy away from welding as they say it can weaken the surrounding material not to mention if too close to a seam melt out the rubber seals. Sig used a patch of what looked like 1/16" aluminum, bolts and 5200 to seal up a flat area that was cracked on his transom skin. My hull had some welding done on it by the PO in 2 spots what must have been over 15 years ago and I haven't seen any cracking or problems due to the welds. I know that welding on the transom skin will cause it to warp severely due to the heat as I've seen on some threads here. I guess you will have some mixed reviews on welding from the boat restoration threads.

I wouldn't use standard all aluminum rivets through the hull. Bullfrog makes aluminum blind rivets with a steel mandrel so you get a tighter pop. The soft aluminum mandrel rivets break too easy and are not very tight. I would only use them for decking or putting interior pieces together. I prefer using stainless blind rivets with the large flange, they are super strong and very tight when they pop. I also put a dob of 5200 on the shaft and in the hole after popping to seal the open end rivets up.

Bull Frog ~ Wolff's Marine Products, Creators of Bull Frog Rivet Aluminum Boat Repair and Trollin' Fins, the ultimate product for slow speed trolling!

Blind rivets, Closed end (sealed), Dome head, Stainless steel - Stainless steel mandrel - Bolt Depot

 

[jvanhees]

Re: Closed end pop rivets and patch question.

A lot of guys shy away from welding as they say it can weaken the surrounding material not to mention if too close to a seam melt out the rubber seals. Sig used a patch of what looked like 1/16" aluminum, bolts and 5200 to seal up a flat area that was cracked on his transom skin. My hull had some welding done on it by the PO in 2 spots what must have been over 15 years ago and I haven't seen any cracking or problems due to the welds. I know that welding on the transom skin will cause it to warp severely due to the heat as I've seen on some threads here. I guess you will have some mixed reviews on welding from the boat restoration threads.

I wouldn't use standard all aluminum rivets through the hull. Bullfrog makes aluminum blind rivets with a steel mandrel so you get a tighter pop. The soft aluminum mandrel rivets break too easy and are not very tight. I would only use them for decking or putting interior pieces together. I prefer using stainless blind rivets with the large flange, they are super strong and very tight when they pop. I also put a dob of 5200 on the shaft and in the hole after popping to seal the open end rivets up.

Bull Frog ~ Wolff's Marine Products, Creators of Bull Frog Rivet Aluminum Boat Repair and Trollin' Fins, the ultimate product for slow speed trolling!

Blind rivets, Closed end (sealed), Dome head, Stainless steel - Stainless steel mandrel - Bolt Depot

I can vouch, as I contacted Bullfrog. They do use the steel rivets for a better POP...vs the aluminum. I read on another's forum, that with the 5200 covering the mandrel hole after popped, the likeliness of corrosion inside the rivet is decreased as well.