clutch dog

Racewerx

Cadet
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
14
How can you tell when your clutch dog has gone bad? My Force 120 would not go into reverse so I pulled the lower unit and removed the clutch dog. The edges are a little rounded but don't look completely worn out.
 

moparman

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2008
Messages
314
Re: clutch dog

might be something as simple as a cable adjustment. Do you have a service manual?It should be in depth on the shift linkage adjustment, but, in a nut shell, you try to center the shift linkage movement each way ,measuring at the coupler, while trying to turn the prop , this needs to be done in forward ,marking the coupler and then in reverse ,again marking the coupler when the prop stops turning, and trying to center the adjustment so that it is the same both ways . This is not a detailed explanation, just a general how to. By all means consult your manual for your specific motor to do it right and it might be all that's wrong[basically going too far forward possibly]. hope this helps with your issue and keep us posted with what you find. MOPARMAN ROLL TIDE:rolleyes:
 

Racewerx

Cadet
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
14
Re: clutch dog

Ajusting the linkage was the first thing I tried. I would step on the prop in reverse and with some force it would spin.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: clutch dog

Would be nice if you stated the year! ASSUMING this is not a Mercury lower unit, ie before Merc changed the midleg and lower unit:

As you no doubt know by now, the clutch dogs are tapered to ease engagement. IF you try turning the prop by hand in the correct direction, with the engine in gear, you are loading the wrong face of the clutch dogs. NOW, a small degree of maladjustment will cause them to disengage and ride over each other with a clicking sound.

There are three places where adjustment can be made. The first and poorest is at the cables themselves. The control box and cables are designed to supply equal movement in both directions.

The second and best is the two adjusting nuts under the bottom carb. They are the most difficult ot get to but give the best results.

The third is the lower shift rod where it exits the midleg. This in not the best option. I prefer to screw this rod all the way into the lower unit and back it out only enough to mate with the hole for the pin and cotter.

With the control in neutral, spin the prop to be certain the lower unit is in neutral. Spin the prop to be certain there is no clicking indicating that one or the other sets of dogs are too close to each other.

Now mark the rod. Move it to forward and reverse and mark it again. travel should be equal. NOW: if it still does not go into reverse, then you must shorten the upper rod by screwing down (raising the rod) on the two nuts under the bottom carb until the engine goes into both gears. Careful: a little goes a long way.

By any chance, you didn't mess around with the pivot screw in the side of the nose cone, did you? It is the small one with only about 1/4 inch of threads on it. Removal of this screw can cause shift problems and no amount of adjustment will cure it. Disassembly of the lower and resetting the pivot yoke is just about the only option.

As long as the engine does not bounce out of gear at full throttle, the drive dogs are good enough and locking properly.
 

Racewerx

Cadet
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
14
Re: clutch dog

It does help to know what year and model is in question,sorry about that. It's a 1990 Force 120. I have not adjusted the pivot rod and had know idea about the adjustment screw under the carbs. I'll put the lower unit back on and try the adjustment under the carbs and see what happens. Just by looking at the clutch dog it seems fine and goes into forward gear no problem.
 
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