Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

[twr7cx]

I've had some issues with my outboard, and had to remove a few bolts, which seem to be seized to the point that a few few broke there heads off. When putting back together is there anything to put over the threads of the stainless steel bolts to prevent this happening again?

 

[kaferhaus]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

Sure is, go to a auto parts store and buy a tube of "anti-sieze". It comes in two kinds. Do not get the kind with copper in it, That kind is fine for steel on steel but causes problems with aluminum and steel.

The other thing you can use (and folks used it for decades is just coat the threads with water proof grease.

And you should never turn a bolt hard enough to break it.... a little heat put in the right place usually lossens them up real quick.

 

[twr7cx]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

Sure is, go to a auto parts store and buy a tube of "anti-sieze". It comes in two kinds. Do not get the kind with copper in it, That kind is fine for steel on steel but causes problems with aluminum and steel.

And you should never turn a bolt hard enough to break it.... a little heat put in the right place usually lossens them up real quick.

I've got some Loctite Silver Grade Anti-Seize ( http://www.loctite.com.au/cps/rde/x...redDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=10000009SRI ), so I reckon that should do the job.

I was extremely surprised how easy these bolts snapped. Didn't have to put much effort in at all.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

A stainless steel bolt is usually equal to a grade 5 bolt. They will not take a great deal of wrenching on before they break. The never seize will work fine and if you are concerned ....... use locknuts with nylon.

 

[Shizzy]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

careful with the nylon lock nuts. from what I have heard, they shouldn't be reused and don't take heat very well.

 

[Wee Hooker]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

As an engineer who works for the Navy I can tell you that Anti-sieze is a MUST whenever threading SS fasteners into untreated Aluminum.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

While I am partial to anti-seize, a few of the bass club fellows swear by Vaseline petroleum jelly. Whatever you decide to use, just be sure to coat all surfaces (not just the threads) because stainless and aluminum set up a galvanic potential. I have seen uncoated bolts cause enough corrosion of the aluminum to split engine mounting clamps. (On Force engines where the mounting bolts pass through the clamp body itself).

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

I've been doing a little homework on this issue too. I never used to use thread lube but decided to start.

One of the factors that I became aware of while surfing the net, is that use of lube affects torque values. Apparently, most printed torque values do not take thread lube into account. This is important because the lube makes it easier to tighen a bolt or nut, thus causing an over-torque situation if not taken into account. The information that I found states that, whenever using thread lube, the stated torque values should be reduced by 30%.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

If you read any Johnson factory manual it will say to use a thread sealant or non hardening gasket sealer rather than anti-seize..
I use the Loctite Aviation gasket sealer,the can with the brush in the lid.
I have never had a SS bolt or any others break off using this...

 

[sturdavj]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

In 1971 while working as a parts counter person for a speed and custom auto store (there weren?t very many back then) I had the privilege to work alongside a very experienced Gentleman (today?s words would be senior citizen).

George was a certified Master Mechanic having worked on at that time some of the world?s largest earth moving equipment used to construct hydroelectric dams in South America. According to George they would ship these behemoths by train in multiple crates to work sites located in the remotest jungle areas. The equipment would be assembled piece by piece, used during construction of the dam and after the project was finished the diesel engines would be removed and used for power plants in some of the local villages and the rest was left for fish habitat ( I don?t think they called it that back then..) when the reservoirs filled.

One of the many tip?s I picked up from George was a tip for anti-seize to be used for exhaust headers bolts. If you have ever tried busting one those buggers loose without snapping it off with the fear of having to drill and tap it out then you know what I mean.

The tip was to use Milk of Magnesia for exhaust headers and header flange bolts. I did this for many years and never had a problem; it left a chalk residue on the threads. I now use the high temp product made by Loctite. I have both the silver and copper Loctite in the bottom drawer of my tool box.

One thing to keep in mind about Loctite anti-seize is that a little bit goes a very long way, literally. You may use a small amount on a bolt at 8:30 AM and you will find some on your steering wheel when you go home at the end of the day. IN other words this stuff gets everywhere, even if you don?t.

 

[Woodnaut]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

I've been using HIGH-TEMP Permatex anti-seize for decades. In the '70s I shipped as 3rd and then 2nd Assistant Engineer on steamships (unlimited). When making repairs to flanges on boilers, the studs and nuts absolutely had to have high temp anti-seize on them. If assembled dry, then within about two weeks the only way to get them off was with a gas axe. I've kept a bottle of the stuff in my garage - and used it - ever since. Not only does it prevent seizing, but it also arrests corrosion on just about anything that it sticks to. And as strudavj already mentioned, it sticks to just about anything. Forever.

One note of caution. If you apply it to the external threads of a bolt, and then screw that bolt into a threaded hole, then some of the excess anti-seize is going to get scraped off of the threads as the bolt enters the hole. It will end up in a little mound at the top of the hole. This is no problem because there is still plenty of goop on the threads. BUT, if you are bolting two pieces of metal together that have a gasket in between, such as a cylinder head or water pump, then the excess anti-seize could get squeezed into the same area where the gasket is setting. Anti-seize is just about the last thing you want on a gasket sealing surface. If, however, you're just bolting a couple of pieces of metal together and there is no gasket involved (example, brackets, lug nuts, etc.) then no worries.

For bolts going through a gasket (like cylinder heads), I usually start by chasing the threads with a sharp tap. Then I use a small brush or small stick to shove some anti-seize into the threaded hole. Doing it like this I get the anti-seize into the hole but don't have to worry about contaminating the sealing surfaces or the gasket. I hope I have explained this clearly. - Woodnaut

 

[F_R]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

I hope nobody is using it on lug nuts.

 

[Rocky_Road]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

I hope nobody is using it on lug nuts.

Why not?

My lug bolts (nuts) get salt water...twice per outing!

I have never had one come loose...and I have never had an issue, changing a trailer tire on the side of the road.

But I have seen a trailered boat flat-bedded to a tire store...because the lug nuts were too corroded, to be removed on the roadside.

 

[F_R]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

That's what I get for using a blanket statement. Lug nuts on cars and trucks depend on torque and friction to keep them from loosening. A trailer getting dunked in salt water is another situation.

 

[sturdavj]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

Never on lug nuts,,, but

I have used it on brake calipers and the back side of brake pads where they came in contact with the calipers to eliminate brake squeal on autos that were notorious for squealing. Stopped the noise.

 

[Boatist]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

I use antisize on my Stainless Steel lug nuts every time. If I do not them after about 1 year of saltwater use it is very hard to get the lug nuts off. I also paint the wheel studs with a cold zink rich paint, or zinc rich primer.
I torque the Lug nuts and recheck after the first trip. Never found one loose and never broke a wheel stud.

My OMC I/O manual says to use GM antiseize and gives the part number. It does say in other locations to use a GM gasket sealer and gives the part number. This gasket sealer is one that never get hard and brittle.

 

[KLINDWW]

Re: Coating on stainless steel bolts before putting into outboard

Never seize, never seize. If you want to put something together and may want to get it back apart never seize it. I work in a chemical plant which has a chloride rich environment. It is comparable to working on an offshore platform. If we don?t use never sieve we don?t get things back apart. As far as the lug nuts, I?m with the other guys, I have been using it on lug nuts for 20+ years with never a problem and I have never snapped a lug off either. The comment about a little going a long way is oh so true. Anybody that has ever used this stuff knows exactly what you mean. Many a prank has been played with this stuff in and around the chemical plants.