control unit problems??????

dono16

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
76
I recently got a 1970, 35 Hp Wards Sea King Chrysler, with chrysler control unit. for some reason the guys who had it before decided to rip all the wires from the key switch, on the back of the switch there is 6 connection points in a circular pattern. My problem is I have no clue as to wich wires connect where , i dont have a manual. and would the manual even have a diagram of the control unit???? On the back of the key switch it says "INDAK" if that helps any.... I know which wires are for what except the purple and orange ones?? what do those do??? It looks as if the previous owner didnt use them because the ends are taped up.

My second issue is that it seems my shifter will only go in reverse, the shifter will not go forward at all, I havent looked into this much i've been screwing around with the electrical.

Thanks for any help guys


Hey also i was trying to up load a photo of this but i wouldnt let me , it was saying its too big????? any help there to???
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: control unit problems??????

Orange is always to the overheat indicator or temperature gauge. It does not hook directly to the ignition switch. On these older Chryslers, purple is unused. With some electronic systems and with Force engines it is tachometer signal and again it does not attach to the ignition switch.

The terminals on the back of the switch should have a letter stamped next to each one.

I'm almost certain that your Sea-King is magneto ignition so I will describe the hook-up for that, but once you know what each terminal is, you should be able to figure it out for yourself.

First terminal is "C" or choke. The green wire attaches to it. Push in the key while turning the switch to start to choke the engine.

After "C" the next terminal should be "S" for start. Yellow wire attaches here.

Next terminal should be "M". This is magneto and the blue wire attaches here to stop the engine.

Next terminal is "I". This terminal is used to power anything you want to have power only while the engine is running or the ignition switch is in the ON or RUN position.

Next terminal is again "M". The white wire attaches to this terminal. White wire is also a signal source for the tach. When the switch is turned to stop, the two "M" terminals have continuity and short the points together stopping spark. The engine stops. remove one of these wires and the engine will not stop running.

Final terminal is "B". Red wire connects here. This is power into the switch for choke, start, and ignition terminals.

As for your shift problems, remove the control box and look at the back of it. The most forward arm is the throttle arm and it should point straight forward in neutral. The rearmost arm should point either straight down or straight up depending upon which side the control box is mounted. When you try to shift into forward, the throttle arm will move down and the shift arm will simultaneously move forward. When you shift into reverse, the throttle arm will move upward. Notice that in either direction, the control cable moves back. The shift lever will move backward at the same time. I suspect that the shift arm is improperly attached to the shaft. If it is, remove the center screw and washer and rotate the arm on the square shaft 'till it is in the proper position.

If everything is correct with the control box, Then you need to check the linkage. On these engines, if too long a screw is used to clamp the cables to the engine levers, they will bind when you try to shift to forward. If the clamps and screws are OK, then the next thing to check is the linkage adjustment. Back where the water spits out behind the engine there are two side covers held on with six screws. Remove the screws and the right side cover. You will see a long hex nut with a regular hex nut holding it in position. First chech to be sure that there is equal travel in both directions and that the center of travel is neutral (prop spins freely) Next try shifting into forward. If the prop still spins freely, then the linkage is too short and needs to be lengthened a bit. Turn the long hex nut (it is threaded in opposite directions on each side so turning it will either lengthen or shorten the linkage depending on direction..) Do it a little at a time until the prop engages fully. And again check that center of travel is neutral.
 
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