cork floats 1971 40 HP

circle hook

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do cork floats go bad even if they look good I set the float level at the spec. called for but still keep having the carb flood out it has a new needle valve & seat, also the fuel by all right should shut off. and the high and low speed needle valves look good and are also set to starting spec, 1 turn on the low and 2 turns on the high. and she still floods. what could be the problem Thanks Bob
 

F_R

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

do cork floats go bad even if they look good I set the float level at the spec. called for but still keep having the carb flood out it has a new needle valve & seat, also the fuel by all right should shut off. and the high and low speed needle valves look good and are also set to starting spec, 1 turn on the low and 2 turns on the high. and she still floods. what could be the problem Thanks Bob

If it floats and looks good, chances are it is ok. No way to tell from here what is goofed up with the float valve.

The preliminary settings for the needles is 5/8 on the high speed (lower one) and 1 1/2 on slow speed (upper one). If you have the high speed open 2 turns, no wonder it floods!! Even 5/8 is probably too much and will have to be adjusted leaner when you get it running. But first you gotta get all that extra gas out of there and get it started.
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

Hmmmm, I would change out the float with a newer one, because they often give troubles with soaking up with gas and losing bouyancy.:cool:
 

circle hook

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

I going to replace the float, but the paper work that came with the rebuilding kit said one turn for the top needle and 2 turns for the bottom needle I will try what you said after I get the new float, I tell you i am learning a lot about this engine the screws under the carb the hold the starter to the block one now just striped and the only way to tap the hole is to weld a tap to a rod so that you can reach all the way in to the hole, before long I will run out of problems with this one thanks guys Thanks Bob
 

JasonAych

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

I have sealed 4 different cork floats with a product called "Seal-all" because it is supposed to be resistant to ethanol when fully cured. It is more of a glue then a coating. However, I have noticed if you work with it in the cold (oddly enough) it goes on kind of goopy then thins out as it cures. I sand the cork to get rid of any rot (if any) and to clean it up and blow it off with compressed air. I had to let one dry out for a few hours. I then use a brush and brush on the Seal All. It starts to dry to the touch quickly. Once it does not seem tacky anymore (within about 5 minutes), I kind of knead out the lumps with my fingers. I then touch up spots that are not shinny to make sure it is completely sealed. I let it fully cure for 24 hours to be sure.

So far so good, but I can not attest for the test of time yet. I have had 2 of them apart since 10% ethanol fuel was run through them and they still look the same. Also, the engines and carbs are all functioning as they should in regards to the float.
 

JasonAych

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

Just to give you some background on what made me choose to try the Seal All.

1) It's fairly inexpensive.

2)Thier website does not really mention ethenol. It just says it can be used to seal gasoline tanks and specifcally mentions carb floats. However if you go to and reach the technical data sheet. It only mentions MEK as a solvent for uncured. In my experience MEK is expeinsive, quite potent, and usually a last resort but at time the only thing that will dissolve some things. It mentions nothing as a solvent when cured. I have also read in other forums that it seams to be resistent to ethenol.

Use at you own risk :)
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

I going to replace the float, but the paper work that came with the rebuilding kit said one turn for the top needle and 2 turns for the bottom needle I will try what you said after I get the new float, I tell you i am learning a lot about this engine the screws under the carb the hold the starter to the block one now just striped and the only way to tap the hole is to weld a tap to a rod so that you can reach all the way in to the hole, before long I will run out of problems with this one thanks guys Thanks Bob

it's actually 1 1/2 turns for the top screw and 1/2 to 3/4 for the bottom, but then again, I never saw a motor as late as yours with two jet needles.:confused:

What's the model number to that engine?
 

circle hook

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

i am going to replace the float I boat store has them for like 11 bucks and they look like they are made of plastic instead of cork, and I will check the serial number on the block and see if it matchs the one on the engine frame.
Thanks Guys bob
 

JasonAych

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

Yeah if plastic is an option, that is what I'd do. It's not an option for the ones I used the Seal All on.
 

F_R

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

1946Z, check it out, the thread is titled 1971 40hp. A 1971 40hp does indeed have both a high and slow speed needle valve.

circle hook, I think you are in for a surprise. I don't believe the iboats float will fit your carburetor. Now, I have been told, but don't know that it is true, that the new cork floats are coated with something other than what the old ones were. The old ones were coated with shellac, and alcohol is the solvent for shellac. The new ones may be better, I can't say for sure. At any rate, you have to get new ones from a dealer.
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

by gollie they did put adjustable needles back in the 40's I never thought they would have done that, after having fixed orifices in the 60's motors. In 72, they went back to the fixed orifice. My mistake, but then again, I didn't ask what year, I asked what model number.:D:D
Sometimes we make mistakes when we post the years of our motors.:cool:
 

circle hook

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Re: cork floats 1971 40 HP

guess what guys the float won't work the metal tab comes out from the middle of the new float, where the cork float it is mounted on the top of the float, that makes the float level totaly wrong, I am thinking of removing the metal tab from two floats and switching them, gee this motor is getting more exctiing ever day. I will repost as soon as the storm passes and I can shovel my way to the garage Again Thanks Bob
 
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