Couple of more questions, PCV?, circ pump?

[JJJ]

96 Cobalt 4.3 4 bbl

Ok, due to rust in the block/head (only use the boat 1-2 times a year), I cracked a cyl. head (rust plugged circ. port in head to block) and took on some salt water then fresh water while flushing. Only hydrolocked while trying to crank - no apparent cyl or piston damage.

I am going to a full closed system to help with corrosion.
Ok here are the questions
A. Minor blow by at idle - but not sure if more than previously - doesn't seem excessive and diminishes as the engine warms up.
Q. Can I and(why not if I can't) add a PCV system - drawbacks???

Also circ. pump on engine has a slow drip and squeaked on startup - sits dry most of the time.
Q. Since I am going full closed system, will an auto water pump work? Again if not why or can this one be rebuilt?
Just trying to save some $$$$.

manifolds and risers don't appear to leak and are still fairly thick to the eye (I know how accurate that is) so I will go new on those when I install the closed system.

On a plus side, set the timing today to about 8 deg as per the manual and it seems to idle nice and rev nicely (on the trailer). Which is good since yesterday was the first starting of the engine since taking on water in JUNE.

Thanks
Jeff - learning slowly LOL

 

[180shabah]

Re: Couple of more questions, PCV?, circ pump?

A few things:
First what do you hope to accomplish switching to PCV system?

Second - and this is big - if you are not replacing the entire engine DO NOT switch to FWC yet. you will be continuously plugging up your heat exchanger. Corosion in the block has already started, that rust scale will continue to break loose.

Third - in a FWC system you can use an automotive circulation pump, BUT the backing plate will not be SS so in a salt water environment it will still only last a few years. Use the marine pump, it will be cheaper in the long run.

Fourth - initial timing needs to be exactly 8* btdc no room for ish here.

 

[JJJ]

Re: Couple of more questions, PCV?, circ pump?

PCV just for low rpm fumes, the flame arrestor system works, just used to a PCV system.

Plan on putting strainers inline to the exchanger for rust debris - already thought of that. I did blow out most of the loose rust already but yea you can't get it all.

On the water pump, is the stock one rebuildable? Is there much difference in $$ between marine and auto pumps and/or could I use my current back plate?
Are they the same rotation????

Not trying to nickle and dime but if you can save some $$ to use elsewhere it always helps as well as availability.

I had the idle low so the timing jumps around a little bit, if anything I'm slightly on the low side. Was trying to stay out of the curve so was idling at about 600 rpm or so.