Crack in aluminum

[JimMachinery]

In doing the leak test on the Naden, I discovered this ugly little crack at one of the stringers. There is no easy access to the inside (without taking part of the hull apart). I'm not sure how to proceed. I guess I should drill the ends to stop it from spreading.

From there I could either: A) Cut a groove along the crack with Dremel, prime and apply JB Weld. or B) Use a product like HTS-2000 that one of those aluminum repair products you apply with a torch.

Any suggestions appreciated!

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Crack in aluminum

Get it welded. No question and absolutely the best repair for that.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Crack in aluminum

again agree.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Crack in aluminum

Go to weldingweb.com and see what the folks over there say.

 

[jeeperman]

Re: Crack in aluminum

Before welding, what is on the other side of that crack?
It appears that whatever it is, it is moving around a bit maybe (paint is broken around each rivet).

 

[JimMachinery]

Re: Crack in aluminum

There's a stringer on the other side of the crack. Due to some minor damage to the stringer, I think it was more of a one-time incident than anything else. There's a dent but the stringer is solid.

The stringer just behind this one has some cracking (far less) at the rivets as well. I'm going to take everyone's advice and have both sites welded.

 

[HHH1]

Re: Crack in aluminum

There's a stringer on the other side of the crack. Due to some minor damage to the stringer, I think it was more of a one-time incident than anything else. There's a dent but the stringer is solid.

The stringer just behind this one has some cracking (far less) at the rivets as well. I'm going to take everyone's advice and have both sites welded.

Hi Jim , I have a similar problem on an older Starcraft Islander ... did you have any luck with the repair either welding or .... ? Thanks

Harry

 

[JimMachinery]

Re: Crack in aluminum

Harry:

I actually checked out several sites and ended up diong the repair myself with HTS 2000. This stuff is as strong as the aluminum when applied properly - metal must get hot enough to melt the rod, not the flame. Tinning is essential with supplied brush.

I experimented with scrap aluminum until I got comfortable with the process.

I also used damp rags around the repair as a heat sink to keep the aluminum from deforming. I'm happy with the result, but time will tell...