Crack in cylinder wall, need insight....

bjly92

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I find myself coming to these forums a lot for this project. So far I've gotten so many useful answers to fix my issues. However this one seems like its dreadful.

Long story short... I bought my first boat, with my first outboard a 1971 105 HP. Motor had issues getting it started but I got it going and it was a blast. compression was slightly low on #2 so I pulled the head and found deep scoring. I contemplated for a bit then decided it was worth the work. At the time all I could see was damage in #2 towards the top. at the time I could see no other damage but the walls were dark and everything else covered in caked on grease. I cleaned surfaces lightly but I should have cleaned them better to get a more clear view.

I brought it to a local machine shop and he said it was repairable and estimated about 2 weeks time. I waited for 5 weeks and finally got the block back today. When I picked it up he said he found 2 cracks in the cylinder wall but told me not to worry to much as they are on the exhaust side and on the exhaust stroke of the cylinder and the engine should run fine. The crack has gone all the way through the sleeve and into the block.

I believe I can weld the aluminum to keep the crack from spreading while a piston and rings are in the cylinder to keep the iron sleeve from warping under the heat... I am also worried about over penetration in the weld and aluminum getting in between the crack in the iron sleeve, which might make the crack worse under heat from the engine running. I think this can be managed as the aluminum is quite thick. However the crack near the back is in the direction towards the water jacket but hast not reached it yet and I don't want the exhaust getting flooded with water and potentially getting in the cylinders when the engine gets shut off.... but this is just me wanting to follow through with this project that has already bled so much out of me. I am not one to give up on projects but i feel I've gone too far into this one.

The engine rebuild alone is costing me roughly $1700 CAD which seems astronomical. most of the cost was new oversize pistons and boring and honing all 4 cylinders. plus a gasket set and other misc parts that broke during disassembly. Regardless I am going to reassemble the motor and run it. These cracks were probably present while I was going out this year so it does run with them. I just want to know how much I should worry about this or if theres anything I could do to prevent it from getting worse.

Pictures attached....
 

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Nordin

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This is a hard one, I am not very good in welding consequences.
Your argument from welding seams right in my opinion.
As you have put so much money in it I would go on and just run it.
Notice all the time you run it how it act and if it starts to misfire check compression and look for water in the cylinders.
If the crack continue try to stop it by drilling a hole in the end of it and then weld it.
I have repaired cracks in water jackets but not at the hot exhaust side with chemical metal and used the industrial product Belzona 1111.
It is really expensive but it has worked out well.
I have used this product Belzona 1111 to filled out dents in cylinder heads too and it has also worked out well.
Have in mind this is my own opinion and crack in blocks are not a delicate situation.
 

bjly92

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Aug 16, 2023
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This is a hard one, I am not very good in welding consequences.
Your argument from welding seams right in my opinion.
As you have put so much money in it I would go on and just run it.
Notice all the time you run it how it act and if it starts to misfire check compression and look for water in the cylinders.
If the crack continue try to stop it by drilling a hole in the end of it and then weld it.
I have repaired cracks in water jackets but not at the hot exhaust side with chemical metal and used the industrial product Belzona 1111.
It is really expensive but it has worked out well.
I have used this product Belzona 1111 to filled out dents in cylinder heads too and it has also worked out well.
Have in mind this is my own opinion and crack in blocks are not a delicate situation.
Thanks Nordin, first time hearing of Belzona 1111. I don't think I'm going to use it on the crack in the block because I'm not sure how its going to react with the heat. However there will be a time this product will pop into my mind in a future product!
 

Nordin

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Jun 12, 2010
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You can google Belzona 1111 and I think they have a video of their products.
It gives you some information about it.
My father who was manager of a truck/forklift workshop at the swedish steel company Sandvik used this product to repair cracks in heavy duty diesel engine blocks.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Gee, I vote for welding it from the outside. Also, the crack was likely from overheat, so you must make sure that does not happen again. There are no ridges in the bore, right?

Causes of overheat are lean fuel/air mix, water pump issues, thermostat issues, over advanced timing and poor fuel quality.
 

Scott Danforth

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Your current power head is wall art. Get a good used power head
 

KJM

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Comes a point where you are just sinking more good money after bad. It's sometimes hard to see that point when you are in the middle of it. I'd say buy a new (to you) OB.
 

bjly92

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Thanks for the insight everyone. It's as I suspected but as you all mentioned I'm in denial.

There really is no more money to sink into it.... It's all been paid for and just has to be put back together. At this point I am going to make the welds in an attempt to salvage my dignity and hope to get 1 or 2 more seasons out of it.

In regards to all the comments about getting a new powerhead, I have been searching and I cannot find anything. Does anyone know where I can source one?
 

flyingscott

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The problem is the cracks in the sleeve are going to keep getting bigger. There are companies that are rebuilding those powerheads.
 

bjly92

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The problem is the cracks in the sleeve are going to keep getting bigger. There are companies that are rebuilding those powerheads.
Yeah I'm aware of the cracks getting worse. But theoretically, even if they made it all the way down towards the crank I'd still get compression correct? In denial again, however at this point I'd like to just salvage some more life out of it.

What companies? I've searched online and I find a few of these but I'd have to buy an entire boat to get the motor.
 

bjly92

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Wow! Shipping to Canada must be really expensive on top of the conversion rate, but still cheaper than a new motor. Only thing is it takes the fun out of it.

I noticed they sell blank sleeves. Does anyone have any opinions if I weld the block and replace the sleeve in the future? I probably don't want to mess with that kind of repair now, I just want to put it together and see what happens. But hey, maybe theres a small chance its worth the $200... plus the machine shop rates....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Yeah I'm aware of the cracks getting worse. But theoretically, even if they made it all the way down towards the crank I'd still get compression correct? In denial again, however at this point I'd like to just salvage some more life out of it.

What companies? I've searched online and I find a few of these but I'd have to buy an entire boat to get the motor.
And when you are 10 miles from anywhere and the motor grenades. What then. Unlike a car where you can coast to the side of a road, and another comes along in 5 seconds to help. Boating is different

Welding aluminum will shrink the material by 6-8% requiring a rebore and hone
 

racerone

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The repair on this engine block is not the same procedure as welding a bracket onto a manure spreader !
 

bjly92

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And when you are 10 miles from anywhere and the motor grenades. What then. Unlike a car where you can coast to the side of a road, and another comes along in 5 seconds to help. Boating is different

Welding aluminum will shrink the material by 6-8% requiring a rebore and hone
I'm not sure I'd trust myself bring 10 miles into any body of water even with a new engine. Luckily we don't have anything like that around here.

Can you elaborate on why it would need a rebore? The sleeve inside is not aluminum and I'd just be welding the aluminum block.

The repair on this engine block is not the same procedure as welding a bracket onto a manure spreader !

But will the bracket hold? Lol
 
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racerone

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I have done----Silver solder.---Alumium brazing.---Brazing with bronze.-Aluminum TIG welding.----Stainless welding.----Stick welding of course.-----I do not think welding this engine block is a good idea
 

jimmbo

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May 24, 2004
Messages
13,655
The Sleeves also look cracked, so to me, the Block would only be useful as an Anchor. I think it was pretty tacky of the Machinist to say a cracked Cylinder is fine, just to get money out of you.

You will be better off getting another complete used Outboard of the same Model, you would then have a Cache of Parts in reserve
 
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