Crash course for buying an inboard

[codyandamber]

I have had several I/O's over the past few years and have been unforunate enough to learn a few things about them. I know, basically, what to look for before purchasing a used one. A true inboard, however, is a different story. I am looking at buying an '89 mastercraft prostar barefoot. I have not yet ran it. I am meeting with them this week to do so. <br /><br />What things do I need to look for while testing the inboard that are different from a sterndrive boat?<br /><br />Does the packing swell after a certain amount of time? Should it leak a little after you first put it in the water.<br /><br />I know nothing about the transmission...So feel free to talk to me like I am a child. I just want to know.<br /><br />Thanks for your help,

 

[airman]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

I don't know anything about your xmission but I can tell you that the stuffing box packing will last a very long time in a pleasure boat, unless it is overtightened. It MUST leak a little, all the time. One drop every 4-6 seconds with the engine off is perfect, more won't hurt it but less will. Underway it will leak more, a splash guard will help keep the spray off things. That water must be there to cool the flax packing. If you tighten the stuffing box too much there will be no cooling and the flax will melt. I'm assuming a normal stuffing box here, not one of the newer dripless styles.

 

[snapperbait]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

ok.. here goes.. <br /><br />Any vibrations... If you feel any, note the rpm and speed at which they occur... Could mean one or more of many problems like bent shaft, bent or poorly balanced prop, engine mis-alignment, worn out cutlass bearing, and sometimes transmision bearing problems... Sometimes the tone of the exhaust can cause the boat to resonate which can feel like a vibration..<br /><br />Packing... couple different types so can't give definate answer.. Traditional packing should leak a very tiny amount like a drop every couple minutes, if it does not leak you can overheat the packing and wear down the area on the propshaft where the seal is... Packing can also use up all it's lubricant and dry out.. Some new types advertize that they don't need to leak at all (ceramic, teflon, ect)... Change the packing out once a year on the propshaft and every two years on the rudder is plenty sufficiant... It's an easy job.. cheap too...<br /><br />The shaft may have a seal rather than a traditional stuffing box which should not drip at all..<br /><br />The rudder also is sealed the same as the propshaft, so with reguards to packing, the same basics apply... With traditional packing on the rudder, you can tighten it so it does'nt drip at all because the shaft is'nt spinning fast enuff to overheat the packing...<br /><br />Transmission... Probably a Borg/Warner 71c or 72c... There about as simple as a transmission can get.. Listen for any noises.. Sometimes reverse will whine a little.. Check the fluid level (with the engine warm, not running), smell (does oil smell burnt), and color.. It may be filled with either oil or automatic transmission fluid (ie. dextron 3 more likely)... Look for any large metalic particles or any signs of water... <br /><br />Good luck...

 

[scamper]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

When the stuffing box starts leaking too much, all you have to do is tighten it. You will see two large nuts on your stuffing box. You will need two wrenches to tighten the gland. Turn the bottom nut, locking nut, down. This will allow you to turn the top forcing the stuffing to compress. Once you have achieved the proper drip, tighten the bottom nut back locking the two together. If your not dripping enough, reverse the sequence. To add more stuffing, unscrew the top nut all the way off the gland. Have your new stuffing already cut to the size of your shaft. When you take the nut all the way off water is going to start coming in depending how much of the old stuffing is still in there. It will probably will take a couple of wraps Put the wraps around the shaft. I find a screw driver helps me force the stuffing into the gland and tighten the top nut.

 

[mrom1234567]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

What about jackshaft models like on Albemarle?<br />Are they problematic?<br />Michael

 

[elpaso]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

When buying a 1989 inboard - single or twin ?<br />The least of your problems are the shaft log.<br />And how many drips per minute.<br /><br />Get a local marine mechanic to check boat<br />out. He can tell you more in 1 hour, than<br />you think you know from 20 years of owning<br />boats. Cost $100 possible savings $5000. up.<br /><br />You don't need a survay - just a man you trust.<br />Stories I hear every week - for 20 years- from people that just that bought a used boat-<br /><br />1. I thought 190 degrees was normal ?<br />2. An engine miss - new plugs will solve problem ?<br />3. Just a "little " oil in water behind boat ?<br />4. Risers are rusty - just a little paint ?<br />5. Starter turns slow - charger has not been<br />pluged in ?<br />6. Oil dipstick looks normal - oil fill cap<br />on valve cover- milkey - don't worry - just condinsation ?<br />7. Vibration at 3200 rpm - just a dinged prop ? <br />8. What smoke ?<br />9. Risers were to hot to touch ?<br />10. 12 volts on volt meter - alternator must<br />be charging ?<br /><br />Thank you for letting me " vent "

 

[salty87]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

there's nothing magical about an old inboard. if you've dealt with an older car (carburated engine) and an i/o, you've probably dealt with most of the problems you could encounter except there's no outdrive on an inboard. the tranny is different but basic, check the fluid- should be a nice reddish and not burnt.<br /><br />all you've really got is a v-8, 351 windsor probably? nothing really tough there, do a compression test and the usual engine inspections (fluids, etc....)<br /><br />take it for a spin and bring your ski/wakeboard/feet...whatever you intend to use it for. i wouldn't buy without seeing how well it pulls someone up. any tranny and driveshaft problems should be obvious at speed. a surveyor is definitely best for that but not entirely necessary.<br /><br />check under the seats for rot, lots of wet vests getting thrown under seats in ski boats, that's not good. give the engine bolts a turn with a wrench, if they spin freely and don't grab you might have some stringer rot.<br /><br />check the price against www.nadaguides.com<br /><br />can't think of anything else.

 

[flashback]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

C&A, If you get this boat, please be careful, you will have to learn how to drive all over again, it is totally different from an I/O. I envy you though, they are a lot less trouble and a lot more dependable, and cost a lot more too.. Good luck

 

[John Carpenter]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

I have owned several I/O's and now have an inboard with the same type of setup you are looking at. All of the sterndrives have had problems of some sort, whether Merc or OMC (never had the pleasure of a Volvo). The straight inboards are trouble free in comparison. Go for it! They say to never say "never"...but I will never own another gas powered truck or a boat with a sterndrive

 

[paragod]

Re: Crash course for buying an inboard

I agree with last thread I love Inboards they are simple and inexspensive to work on verses the i/o the tranny rebuild is a cake walk for velvet drives I have had 4 inboards in the last 3 yrs and they were great Chris Craft Penn Yan and Shamrock and now Century engine alignment is the biggest saver in Inboards if its out of align it leaks water mess the tranny shafts and struts and they soud good in the water