Daft Question

dsc652

Cadet
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
7
Had the upper gearbox of my 290 drive completely refurbished recently.

Can you tell me what size / type of spanner should be used on the two side studs which are recessed into the side of the mid section casting ?

Some seem to see this as a routine removal / replacement to do the bellows etc - is it ?

How do I ensure an airtight seal - dont want water getting in and wrecking the drive.

Many thanks,

Doug
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Daft Question

Takes a 9/16" wrench on the 2 nuts.
Pulling the upper gear box is a LOT easier than pulling the drive. Especially when replacing the bellows. I replaced my bellows yearly when I lived in Alaska, simply because of barnicales on the bellows. I didn't want to be fixing expensive things due to sharp little creatures cutting holes in a part that only costs 65 bucks. Takes a couple of orings between the upper and intermediate, but nothing major.
Install the new bellows per the instructions, and they don't leak. DO NOT over-tighten the clamps, that will cause a leak, and make sure they are positioned correctly (also in the instructions that come with the OEM bellows).
While that may sound like a lot of work, after the first time and you see what is going on, it's a 30 minute job to change the gear lube and replace the bellows. No big deal.
 

dsc652

Cadet
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
7
Re: Daft Question

Hi Don,

Many thanks for your response.

Have tried an open ender on these, but not sure if I have them tight enough.

Is there a special tool, or a special ring spanner ?

I see in the manual that the VP guy in the picture seems to be using some sort of small box headed spanner ?

Should I have put any sealant on the mating surfaces ?

Regards,


Doug


Takes a 9/16" wrench on the 2 nuts.
Pulling the upper gear box is a LOT easier than pulling the drive. Especially when replacing the bellows. I replaced my bellows yearly when I lived in Alaska, simply because of barnicales on the bellows. I didn't want to be fixing expensive things due to sharp little creatures cutting holes in a part that only costs 65 bucks. Takes a couple of orings between the upper and intermediate, but nothing major.
Install the new bellows per the instructions, and they don't leak. DO NOT over-tighten the clamps, that will cause a leak, and make sure they are positioned correctly (also in the instructions that come with the OEM bellows).
While that may sound like a lot of work, after the first time and you see what is going on, it's a 30 minute job to change the gear lube and replace the bellows. No big deal.
 
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