DC switch panel help.

[The Revenge]

I'm installing a switch panel on this whaler resto I'm doing. The switch panel came with three fuses to switches and then jumper wires to the other switches.
I removed this.
I'm running the wires from a 12 position blue sea fuse box directly to the individual switches. They are all fused at the box. So I figured I could remove these additional fuses going into the panel.

Do I need to add another fuse from the switch to the end item? Between the switch and bilge pump, nav lights, courtesy lights etc..

Also this panel came with the switches reverse of what I want. They have up is off and down is on. There is also a sticker on the side of the switch that says off and on with an arrow.
Can I just swap the terminals or do I need to completely reverse the switches.
Thanks a ton.

 

[NYBo]

Re: DC switch panel help.

Fuse each device separately. Otherwise, a short or other malfunction will (hopefully) blow the fuse for the entire panel, taking out all the devices connected to it.

 

[jc55]

Re: DC switch panel help.

You'll have to turn the switches upside down in the panel, if they are not "keyed".

 

[oldman570]

Re: DC switch panel help.

You'll have to turn the switches upside down in the panel, if they are not "keyed".

It is as jc55 and NYBo states. if the switches are keyed, you can get a small file and file new keys for the switches so they can be turned as needed.
If each switch is being fused at the new fuse panel you should not need to fuse any of the wires running from the switches to the item being run, "BUT" it is best to do so at that unit if the wires are going to be exposed to any metal where they could rub and make contact with what would be battery ground for most boats. JMO
Oldman570

 

[The Revenge]

Re: DC switch panel help.

I'm a little confused.
Here is most of my electrical system right now. It the pic you can see the 12 position fuse panel.
I plan to run individual wires from this fuse panel to each switch on the DC panel. Then from each switch to its item, nav lights, bilge pump etc...

Does there need to be a fuse between the fuse panel and the switch panel?
Does there need to be an additional fuse between the DC switch panel and the item it's powering, nav lights, bilge pump, etc..
Thanks

 

[The Revenge]

Re: DC switch panel help.

When I refer to the wiring example below the radio, GPS, VHF, are all wired straight to the fuse panel, with no other fuses.
Yet for some reason the switches at the panel that has a hot wire jumper to each switch has a fuse at the switch panel also.
Does that mean if those individual items were wired directly to the fuse block no fuses other than at the fuse panel are required?
Thanks

 

[jc55]

Re: DC switch panel help.

Revenge, your layout looks nice. Diagrams show you "HOW" to wire, but they don't show you "HOW" to wire. Please understand that I am not an expert but have scratch wired. Your battery switch will allow you to kill the fuse block power entirely which is good. Now, you want to run a wire from each fused circuit on your fuse panel, to it's respective switch, then out to that accessory. So, yes. Remove the jumpers on the switches that you don't want daisy chained together. A terminal strip below your switches will make for a nice install. If not, wire with lots of slack, and zip tie your wires together in a harness, like this...(random internet pic)

My Baja for instance, doesn't have a fuse panel. The switches or circuit breakers are daisy chained(don't remember which order) then out individually to the accessory.

And yes, only one fuse is required per accy. Wiring is easy...wire routing and circuit planning take 200% longer than the actual install, lol.

 

[Grandad]

Re: DC switch panel help.

Yes. - Grandad

 

[oldman570]

Re: DC switch panel help.

In the diagram you posted of the fuse panel and accessories the fuses on/in the panel are all that is needed. You have to run a 12+ and 12- to each accessory and make sure they are in a protected sleeve anywhere they go thru any bulkhead or near any metal. The use of 16 or 14 gauge wire should be best for the amperage needed to run most all the accessories. Shielded wire might be needed on some accessories to keep stray voltage from messing up some of the incoming signals to the accessory, Chart plotter, Radio, or any thing that the electric current draw might interfere with.
JMO Oldman570