Deadspot/Backfire Off Idle

eldplanko

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
86
Hi All, hoping for some good suggestions.

Background:

1974 Mercruiser 888 (Ford 302), original block, heads. MC-1 outdrive, same vintage. FWC, no water in oil. Compression definilty on the "worn out" side (100-110 psi, spec 140). Over last season, I tore it down to the longblock, as the valves were leaking. After replacing 1 burnt valve and a poor man's valve job (griding), put it all back together. New Holley marine 2BBL carb (old one leaking at throttle shaft). Holley carb has a 6.5 in power valve, pink accelerator pump cam (same as on the old one), 0.60 jets, and 0.28 squirters. These look the same or similar as the old carb. Accelerator pump pumps a good stream when the throttle is pumped. New coil (old oil filled one overheated), new engine electerical and ballast resistor, new points distributor (Mallory marine, with stock mallory marine advance, old one had rusted advanced springs). New plug wires, new plugs, triple checked correct firing order (13726548, cam is 351 on the 888, confirmed by sequence of lifters when the valve cover and manifold was off), new fuel pump (diaphram on the original pump blow and leaking gas into the sight glass). Fuel system checked (new filter), fuel line to gas newer aluminum gas tank, removed and inspected correctly function antisiphon valve, removed and inspected intake fuel pick-up and metal screen, removed and blew through (with no resistance) fuel tank vent. New 87 octane gas (10% etoh) w/ marine stabil.

Starts fine cold and hot, has never idled well below 800-900 rpm w/o load (on muffs) or w/load in water in gear. I'm assuming this is because the engine is old and worn out, and there are slight imballences in the compression between the cylinders. I'm forced to leave it at ~1000rpm, else erratic surging at idle (up and down 800-1200). Base distributor timing at 10 BTDC, the advance on the mallory marine distributor is not as steep as the original merc, but the max advance is the same (24 advance to 34 total). From what I can tell at 1000 rpm, the distributor hasn't started it's advance yet, as if I set the idle lower (into the erratic 800-1000 range) it stays at 10 BTDC. Ilde screws are set about 4 turns out, set using vacuum gage for max vacuume at lowest rpm (w/o erratic idle). Vacuum at idle is steady 13-15 in.


Problem:

Will idle around fine in gear and slightly off idle. If I slowly increase the throttle at ~1500 rpm (in gear under load) it dies. Same spot, everytime. If I punch it to WOT from idle or off idle, it overcomes the dead spot (with a single backfire), and revs up to the correct max RPM at WOT (4000 rpm at WOT). Before someone says lower shift cable, it's definitley not, does the same thing with the ground disconnected on the shift cut out switch, plus, I'm allready in gear.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 

RogersJetboat454

Commander
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Messages
2,964
Re: Deadspot/Backfire Off Idle

Any thoughts or suggestions?

You may be expecting too much out of a worn out engine (100 PSI is dismal).

You say you did a "poor mans" valve job by "grinding". Was this grinding on a valve grinder, grinding on a bench grinder, or lapping the valves with compound?
 

eldplanko

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
86
Re: Deadspot/Backfire Off Idle

It did it by hand with the compound. Was mostly to remove the majority of the crap that was keeping the valve "really" leaky. I didn't want to go overboard and seal up the head when I knew the rings were also leaking. I plan to replace the block next offseason... this was just to get me on the water till I saved up the $1500 for rapido.
 

RogersJetboat454

Commander
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Messages
2,964
Re: Deadspot/Backfire Off Idle

It did it by hand with the compound. Was mostly to remove the majority of the crap that was keeping the valve "really" leaky. I didn't want to go overboard and seal up the head when I knew the rings were also leaking. I plan to replace the block next offseason... this was just to get me on the water till I saved up the $1500 for rapido.

I see...
All the tricks and tweaks in the world won't make up for a clapped out motor. Idling your engine at 1K rpm just to keep it running will shorten the life of your outdrive exponentially.
 

eldplanko

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
86
Re: Deadspot/Backfire Off Idle

I know.... outdrive is allready on the list to replace also, (as there is a big crack in the lower unit (near the prop, but not deep enough yet to get to the oil, no water in the gear oil), a pin hole in the water pocket in the upper unit (make a nice tell-tale for the water pump to see a small stream shooting out the back), and the water hole between the outdrive and bell housing is coroding almost bigger than the o-ring (patched up with aluminum epoxy). Plan to replace it with an alpha 1 when I do the long block. I've allready switched out the entire gimbal assembly to the alpha 1 (it took some interesting grinding on the 888 transom plate to get the bolt holes to match up.

So is the consensus... just live with it untill I get the new motor. I can do this :).
 

John_S

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2004
Messages
4,269
Re: Deadspot/Backfire Off Idle

Well, you certainly have your work cut out for you. I am not familiar with your holley carb, but if you can increase the accell pump shot, you might try that. If running it with choke partially closed improves the issue, you are going lean for some reason. Could be your engine is so worn, than the vacuum that the carb sees is considerably less than normal.
 
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