Decarb, different twist this time

[Texasmark]

Peace Bro's<br /><br />Been reading about the decarb thing since joining the site and seems that I missed something in my initial analysis. Maybe it's the wedge shaped piston rings with the nowadays popular loopers that makes it necessary whereas it wasn't when I was boating before with primarily cross flows....dunno.<br /><br />So yesterday I happened to be in AutoZone and there was some Sea Foam on the shelf. I was impressed as we don't have a local marine dealer and there's not that much boating around here.....lakes too low. But you guys did say that autoparts places handle it and shonuf. Bought a can.<br /><br />So I then go to NAPA to get a filter for my tractor and see a floor display of SeaFoam and Deep Creep. Read the accompanying brochures and bought a spray can of Deep Creep. Now I am officially ready to decarb. Grin<br /><br />First of all my engine is "hard wired" to my fuel tank with no removable connector. So I either buy a set, or do something different.<br /><br />Everyone posting has referred to the "shock" treatment where you use a 2 gallon tank with a real concentrated mix and do your thing. No one has mentioned just adding it to the fuel tank and over time letting it keep things cleaner than the oils alone can do.<br /><br />So here's the question: Why not just add it to the gas and let it "maintain" the level of decarb desired? Nothing on the can said to do that and I was concerned that the stuff might eat up my plastic or rubber in the fuel delivery system. It did however say that doing that would keep fuel fresh. Just wondering why they didn't go ahead and talk about the decarb aspects.<br /><br />Comments certainly welcomed.<br /><br />Course Marvel Mystery Oil is a solvent also, been around longer, and I use it in all my farm diesels to keep the injectors clean and all. Don't add it to my gas powered road vehicles as I figure there are enough detergents in the gas we buy nowadays to take care of that; but not enough to keep 2 cycle engines clean....I guess.<br /><br />Thanks,l<br /><br />Mark

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

If your engine is running fine now it makes perfect sense to run SeaFoam in the fuel all the time. I have for years. I also use 1/2 can in every other tank of fuel in my car and truck.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

Boy that was quick. My keyboard hasn't even had time to cool down from the post. Grin.<br /><br />Thanks, That's what I figured.<br /><br />Now, having done that, do you do the "shock" treatment also and if so, why? What kind of rig are you running and how do you run it.....if your answer is yes.<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Mark

 

[BillP]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

If a motor is kept in tune and running temps are normal, decarbing is almost a non issue. 500 hrs later it won't have even a little buildup. If the motor is loose, out of tune and runs cold it might get crud built up in 500hrs. <br /><br />It isn't a secret that solvents are the killers of soft parts so it shouldn't be a surprise to anyone who has problems running SeaFoam full time. Regardless of that, some time ago walleye/kenny posted when working as an ob tech he found motors with gooked up fuel systems were running SeaFoam all the time. <br /><br />If you want a real eye opener, take a capfull of MM Oil and let it sit long enough to evaporate away (I've done it and it takes months). What is left in about a year is a hard plastic like residue. The residue eventually dries to a hard plastic substance similar to a bowling ball. Remember STP? It has the identical results. <br /><br />Me, I would never run solvents full time in any of my motors, unless the motor mfg said to do it.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

Thanks. Maybe the right answer is to put it in every once and awhile. Heck I dunno.<br /><br />Mark

 

[Major Woods]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

It's nice to do a full blown decarb to set a baseline with the motor.<br />After 300 motor hours I did the decarb with seafoam to see how much smoke (carbon cleaning) would be produced. <br />Only had 15 seconds of barely visable smoke during the whole process. Now I know my motor is carbon free and did not have have a carbon problem to start with.<br /><br />I will continue to run a maintenence level of carbon guard to keep the motor clean.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

I'd be interested in knowing the age of the engines in which solvents attacked soft parts. I'll bet it wasn't solvents but rather the corn squeezin's we call ethanol. Even that's not a problem in newer engines as they are designed to handle the stuff. Every engine in my inventory gets a shot of SeaFoam with each fill up. Even my ice auger (ice drill for you southern fisherman) hadn't been used for five years but was treated regularly with SeaFoam. It started and ran perfectly this winter. Ethanol has a tendency to loosen debris and crud build up in any engine regardless of age so it is not surprising that states that now mandate the stuff see an initial rash of fuel system problems. Here in the midwest we've used corn squeezin's for years. It is no problem once your fuel system is clean. Just use SeaFoam and you won't have to deal with carb or carbon issues.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

How much do you gusy figure you spend on additives for fuel every year?

 

[Chief101]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

If you are not counting oil, I use one dose of stabil if the weather gets bad and I get stuck landlubbing for a month but that seldom happens. I'm not even sure that's necessary Mark. <br />I like to tinker with my boats but with old 2 stroke engines there just isn't much to do, maybe I should buy a 4 stroke motor, then I can get my tinkerin' bug satisfied.

 

[Capn Mike]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

I did the Sea Foam "shock" treatment a few years ago on my 200 Johnson, and sure enough, big clouds of smoke. After the treatement, switched plugs, per the advise. Couple of weeks later, I pulled the new plugs, and they looked just like the ones I'd replaced.<br /><br />The dealer mechanic recommeded Evinrude/Johnson Carbon Guard in each tank of gas. It's at least $10/per small bottle, so add that to the price of gas. But I've been running it for the last 3 years, and my engine does seem to run smoother. But also, I use Evinrude XD30 for oil, even though it costs more than most, so maybe that's why. <br /><br />I know, I know, I'm probably foolish in doing both. But what's the cost of oil and additives compared to a new engine? So I justify it that way.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Decarb, different twist this time

Chief 100 I am LMAO at your comment. Very cute. I'll admit after-market additives are expensive and you would tend to say why waste your money.<br /><br />Well "laddies" (not my caption but I'm pleadurizing it anyhew) OEM now offers goodies that just do some of the same things; so must be something to it.<br /><br />I think the problems with OEM's is that every after market hootus has to be tested. They don't test them for let's say financial reason's so they can't endorse them.<br /><br />So it's not that they are bad or not effective, just that the OEM hasn't spent money to investigate them.<br /><br />Whadda you think?<br /><br />My 2c<br /><br />Mark