Deciphering Codes, next steps?

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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Morning oh great gods of the boat! Disclaimer, I am not a mechanic, but I claim to be one in my own head. I can take apart and fix anything with the right guidance and mentorship. That said, I am looking to the forum for help with my Sanger V210 (Mercruiser ECM 555)

Last trip out to the lake I code the dreaded "beeping" codes. Got my hands a scan tool and here are the results (I have changed the order they came off the scan tool based on at what "hour" point they were logged.

Boat currently reads having 325.3 hours (interesting because my dash display only shows 318...)

PCM Faults:

94 - Pitot Pressure (Boat Low Speed Sensor) Low: I have had opportunity in the past with my sensors out back getting clogged with crap from the Delta. When this happens the speedo stops working. Clean them and speedo works fine again. Guessing this is not important?

75 - Fuel Level 1 Circuit High: Never had an issue at all with fuel gauge or knowing how much I have? Again, is this even a concern?

119 Steering Position Circuit Low: I currently have the steering helm and cable out - long story, not relevant here...

Freeze Frame Memory:

21 - ECT Starboard Head Temp Overheat (56.8 hours): I bough the boat at 68 hours...given this code is so old is it even something to think about at this point?

3 - Sea Pump / Block Low Pressure (249 hours): 75 hours ago on the boat...that would have been last summer at least? Last year I had my ballast system break while driving and flood the engine compartment. Boat shut itself off, we found it and pumped the water. Ran perfect immediately after. Never thought anything of it till now.

323.9 Hours is the log time on all these....

37 - Sea Pump / Block Pressure Low: I believe this one to be the primary of my current problems. Looking for advice on this one in particular...

19 - Max RPM Exceeded: I went WOT on the lake and that is when the annoying/intermittent "beep" went solid. I immediately shut down the boat. When I restarted it ran perfect but I limped it back to the trailer and started this process of research.

9 - Engine Guardian Limiting Power: Obviously a result of code above.

151 - Fuel Pump Relay Circuit: ???

325.3 (current hours) is the log time on these ones:

75 - Fuel Level 1 Circuit High: Never had an issue at all with fuel gauge or knowing how much I have? Is this even a concern?

94 - Pitot Pressure (Boat Low Speed Sensor) Low: ???

119 - Steering Position Circuit Low: Again, I currently have the steering helm and cable out - long story, not relevant here...

152 - IAC Output: Book says Open Circuit to IAX (Wiring Problem or Bad IAC). What the heck is an IAC?

So that's the story. I believe the only things I am concerned about are the ones I highlighted in red, but I am looking to the experts for advice so I thought it would be good to include them all. Looking for help on next steps (order sensors? If so which one?). I have read about cleaning out the sea pump but not entirely sure where to start on that? Thanks in advance!

Keith
 

alldodge

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Howdy

First what you working on? Its great to know it has a 555 but also need to know what motor and drive, serial numbers are best?

The number 1 failure on these motors is the seawater pressure switch p/n 8M6000623 . Dang thing is expensive for what it is but they don't last. It is mounted on the power steering cooler above the back of the motor.

If this is a 496 (another reason to know what where working on) then 152 - IAC Output is the issue with the Idle Air Control valve. The IAC is what is used to keep the motor at idle when no throttle is applied. Again if this is the early 496 its probably getting hot. The fix is to replace the IAC and most often the pig tail. Reason or this, if the IAC is not replaced and/or the pig tail has a problem then it will take out the PCM
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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Sorry! I knew better and was going too fast this morning to not give the info. It is a 2002 Sanger V210. Has the Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI Tow Sports. Engine Serial number is 0M310050. Velvet Drive Model 10-17-004 (Serial No. 91469). Thanks for the help!
 

alldodge

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Being before 2004 motor I would think the same thing could happen. In most cases the IAC gets hot and throws a code. The heat from the IAC can also damage the pigtail. The fuel pump relay and fuel level is not an issue and normal for motors without digital controls.

Check for 5V on the water pressure sensor pin A the Black/Pink wire. Then check for voltage on the Dark Blue/White wire pin C, unable to say what the reading should be. Manual says to use scanner and it should read 0 and if not it will show the error your seeing. Some times the sender needs to be removed and reinstalled to make a better connection
ECT Water and Oil Pressure.jpg
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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OK. I believe I understand what is said. But please talk to me like an idiot. LOL. One thing I struggle with is identifying exactly what I am looking at on these charts. Are the circles the actual sensors on the boat? And is the 24 pin shown the actual harness itself to the PCM? I get the wire colors, and know how to test them for the 5 volts, etc, but looking at these diagrams sends my brain into spin mode when I try to find the pieces on the boat itself.

Also, I am assuming the key should be on to do these tests right?

Again, thanks for the help!
 

alldodge

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The one with the [ b ] is the water pressure sensor. The sensor is located above the rear of the motor, between motor and transmission. In the link below see item 4 in the box, this is the pressure sensor

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31602/7752/250

The sensor looks like this

Pressure Sensor.jpg

The other wiring on the pic in post 4 is not of issue right now, just letting you know where they go, and the rectangular connector is one on the 555 PCM
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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Check for 5V on the water pressure sensor pin A the Black/Pink wire. Then check for voltage on the Dark Blue/White wire pin C, unable to say what the reading should be. Manual says to use scanner and it should read 0 and if not it will show the error your seeing. Some times the sender needs to be removed and reinstalled to make a better connection

Black and pink gives .008v. Blue and white is
1.670v
 

alldodge

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The Black/Pink (5V for all sensors) should be 5V, and with Blue/White being 1.6V then there must be an issue with measuring the Black/Pink. The Gray wire is ground.
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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I'm not sure how to adjust. I had direct contact with the wire and a good ground. Key was on. Only other way I can think of is to either ground the grey wire and/or actually start the boat? I even did it three times with three different ground spots
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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OK, here is the weekend update. I found 5 volts on black/pink. Good to go there. Also found a loose connection at the PCM, after spending several hours tracing and looking, I solved that (Pin was ever slightly loose in the harness-all fixed).

So, now with 5 volts feeding, I am getting 3.1 volts from Blue/White wire. If I am understanding this correctly from above posts, I should be getting 0? Does this mean order the sensor?

Second current issue...I cleared all codes from the boat to get a fresh start. IMMEDIATELY (I mean, as if they were not erased) It had the following four codes still.
- 75 Fuel Level 1
- 94 Pitot Pressure
- 119 Steering Position
- 152 IAC Output

Then Within a few minutes I get code 37 Sea Pump Block Pressure Low again. (that one seems to clear and need to cycle in order to come back.

Finally, interesting note that while running with the scanner, the scanner says the Lake/Sea Temp is 221 degrees C!!! Umm, I am not sure I buy that one as that is about 425? F...I think it would have exploded LOL...or at least been steam coming out the exhaust.

Any ideas?
 

alldodge

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The only codes I would pay any attention to is the 37 and 152, the rest are normal because you don't have those sensors installed. Any one of the sensors which effect the 5V sensor circuit can pull enough power to cause some others to show an issue.

You appear to have the water pressure sensor problem. Can try to remove it and reinstall to see if it will clear and start working again, but I'm figuring it probably needs changing.

Does the motor idle steady and at correct rpm?
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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That is pretty much what I was thinking. I am going to order the pressure sensor today. I have removed it and it looks pretty gunky inside. I would guess that SHOULD resolve code 37. I am still kind of unclear on what code 152 means...unless it is a byproduct of 37?

Motor runs perfect. Idle is at 620-630 (600 is ideal). Boat is normal as can be except the codes and beeping form the dash.

Any thoughts on the temp thing? The pressure sensor isn't a temp sensor as well right?
 

alldodge

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Since the pressure sensor is gunked up, clean it up and see if that makes it go away. The 152 is the IAC and others have had it with some beeps. The last guy tried other things but did replace it to fix. I would go one at a time just to make sure one is not causing issues with the other. Now if the IAC is getting real hot, it needs to be replaced.

The high temp is because you don't have the sensor so I would ignore it. The pressure sensor does not have a temp side to it
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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Makes sense. Thanks. Back to talking to me like an idiot ;), can you point me in the direction as to where the IAC may be located, or what it looks like. Also, the link you shared above is the sensor I need for pressure right? Just making sure before I order. I am over this, rather put a new one in that try to clean it up on a 15 year old boat.
 

kstrongsyj

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May 23, 2006
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All fixed. Both sensors needed replacement. Swapped the pressure and cleared the codes and never came up again. However the IAC immediately came back again. Replaced that that and cleared one last time. Now it runs perfect with no codes. Thank you AllDodge very much for your help. Saved a ton of money on this with your help.
 
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