Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Paul Bell

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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
66
I thought I would get ambitious this year and repair a soft spot in the deck.
The surprises lurking underneath have been shocking as I started by removing the carpeting and pulling up the soft wood.This boat is kept under a canopy on a lift and stored inside for winter since birth.The sealing of the floor was clearly compromised in a few areas where water penetrated and probably stayed since it got there.
I have cut out the entire deck and the foam although looking dry is saturated.
The wood supporting structure bracing has ample rot present.This project obviosly took on an entire new meaning as I am removing the saturated foam and bad wood from a boat that has been kept relatively dry except for the in and out skiing and swimming.This is a beautiful and well maintained boat but not at this moment.
A question that I would really appreciate advice is why would this be built in a way where water retention boxes are fiberglassed in to best hold water without any drain capability?
Once all is removed and replaced how is the best way to allow drainage?
 

Bondo

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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

why would this be built in a way where water retention boxes are fiberglassed in to best hold water without any drain capability?

Ayuh,....

Something to do with Design Life...

Btw,...
They put all that Foam in there to capture,+ retain any water that might possibly want to Drain out....

Welcome Aboard Paul,.... You've found the University of Boat Repair....
I believe the Dean of the College of Rotten Hulls,+ Fiberglass Repair... Oops,...
Will be along in a short while to show you the way back to Happy Boating...:)
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Unfortunately there is much about production boat building, that doesn't make sense for longevity, such as putting carpet over a wood cored deck with unsealed holes, and pathways through which water can get into the flotation foam. Many production boats from that time period were made the same way. You can rebuild it better than it was from the factory, if you want to put in the effort and feel that it's worth it. The problem is, the rot you see when you first pull up the old deck, is usually the tip of the iceberg, there is usually a lot more lurking in that nice damp dark place that rot fungi love to inhabit. Start reading, I had to do about the same to mine, I did re-install the foam because the manufacturer felt that it was needed for structural stiffness. I did have the deck 'glassed in non skid gelcoat, no carpet at all on the deck to hold moisture, and all seams and screw holes were filled with 3M 4200. Should last as long as I have it, the original poorly done one lasted about 15 years before it got bad. Carpet on a wood cored deck, esp if the screw holes are not sealed, contributes to rot at least as much, if not more than flotation foam in my opinion.
 

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Paul Bell

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Nov 22, 2008
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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Thanks for the advice and encouragement.I plan to follow most of these recomendations to do it right.Most of the foam is now out.I plan to replace almost all exposed wood that shows signs of damage from moisture including the stringers and using newer type foam that is not supposed to hold water.

One remaining question I have is
Does it make sense to create a small drain opening to allow any moisture an exit toward the bilge and possibly an air vent up into high up into the gunnel to allow circulation of air to the underside?

I have loved this boat for many years and think I will love it even more once completed knowing it is better than originally designed. Certainly the decking will be sealed far better than original. I will have to investigate a better and more functional material than carpeting
I think a few new captains chairs instead of the original folding type seats will be my reward.
 

Bondo

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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

One remaining question I have is
Does it make sense to create a small drain opening to allow any moisture an exit toward the bilge and possibly an air vent up into high up into the gunnel to allow circulation of air to the underside?

Ayuh,... Absolutely...

Limber Holes should be wherever they are needed to drain All areas of All water....
Ventilation is Always a Plus too....
 

oops!

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Oct 18, 2007
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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

hi...... welcome to i boats.......

the drainage holes and the vent holes are the best things you can do for the longevety of the new deck....there are other things as well but lets get you where the fun can really begin.

as you are rip and stripping the hull.....take lots of pictures....and take lots of measurements.......the thing is to duplicate what was there....only make it better

if you can......please post pics so we can help spot some problematic areas that one set of eyes might miss....if you need instructions to do that....there is a set in the non-boating technical forum........

as you repair/replace the stringers......you have to make sure the hull is properly supported......if not....when the new stringers go in ...the hull might twist.

that will get you started.......remember .....read read read....those links td gave you are fantastic.

cheers
oops
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Ayuh,....

Welcome Aboard Paul,.... You've found the University of Boat Repair....
I believe the Dean of the College of Rotten Hulls,+ Fiberglass Repair... Oops,...
Will be along in a short while to show you the way back to Happy Boating...:)


heh heh heh......somehow bond-o......i think you can still build circles around me ! ;)
 

Paul Bell

Seaman
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
66
Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Nice job on your deck!
What did you finish yours with?

Kind of like the classic cars of the 70,s and 80,s.
Some beautiful boats were built then.
 

Paul Bell

Seaman
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
66
Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Limber holes. I need to learn the lingo.
Thanks for the advice
 

Bondo

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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Ayuh,...

If you've got a couple of Hours,....

Take a read of Oop's thread titled " hull extension in progress with picks "......

Lots,+ Lots of Good learning in there...As well as the rest of the restoration forum of course....
Originally Posted by Bond-o
Ayuh,....

Welcome Aboard Paul,.... You've found the University of Boat Repair....
I believe the Dean of the College of Rotten Hulls,+ Fiberglass Repair... Oops,...
Will be along in a short while to show you the way back to Happy Boating...:)
heh heh heh......somehow bond-o......i think you can still build circles around me ! ;)

Ayuh,... At this point,.. I think that's a Very Debatable point....

But,...
Even If it happens to be True,...
You're much Chattier than Myself, making Yourself a Much Better Teacher/ Professor....;)
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,026
Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Nice job on your deck!
What did you finish yours with?

Kind of like the classic cars of the 70,s and 80,s.
Some beautiful boats were built then.

After I installed the new deck, I had a local 'glass shop glass it in and coat it with non skid gelcoat. That way I could get rid of the carpet on the floor which I feel greatly contributes to rot, because once moisture gets under carpet, esp the marine carpet, with the thick rubber backing, the moisture stays there for months. When I'd get the boat ready for the spring, the carpet under the rear seats would still be damp, even after sitting all winter, and opening up the cover to try to dry things out. The way it is now if any moisture does get in at least it can evaporate.

If you can 'glass the deck yourself and don't want to go to the expense of having someone gelcoat it, you can coat it in a bedliner like product called durabak, it's a marine quality deck coating that is used a lot on workboats. Perfect for an open boat that gets a lot of use.

As far as the foam issue, if you want to get rid of the foam, look for a resto on a 22' Wellcraft on this site, the owner took up the floor and you can see how much more structure that boat had (no foam originally) than my FW did, which came with foam. From memory I think there were at least 4 transverse bulkheads if not more, my FW had only 2. So if you are thinking of leaving out the foam to allow drainage, I think you need to add structure.
 

Paul Bell

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Nov 22, 2008
Messages
66
Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Here are a few pictures of what is lurking below.
The foam all the way into the bow was saturated and now removed.
Some of the wood is fairly rotted from above.Much will be removed and some will be reinforced and glassed in.
Each section is well glassed and sealed so water that got in could not come out . My intention is to drill openings, put in pvc drains and seal around the drain pipes to preserve the wood. This is a lot of work!!
I have a feeling of hope now the damage is assessed and things are drying out.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement thus far.
 

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Lou C

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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Looks familiar! Well you're on your way, take your time and ask for help when needed. Make sure you wear proper protection when grinding fiberglass, it's nasty stuff that you don't want in your lungs, eyes, etc.
 

Paul Bell

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Nov 22, 2008
Messages
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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

Here are a few pics of the repair work in process.
Once foam was removed and things dried out some I decided rather than replacing some wood to sister attach new plywood that will be epoxy coated and fiberglassed to the existing members that still are fairly solid. This method will add additional weight and stability to the bow. This should also minimize some of the grinding. The more significantly damaged pieces will be completely replaced. I also plan to use PVC pipes epoxied in to and also new closed cell foam.
There are a few posts suggesting the use of PL construction adhesive to embed stringers. This may be an excellent product also for the sister pieces before screwing together.
Since the stringers should not touch the hull does this seem like an effective product to utilize??
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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maxum247

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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

I used Polyeurothane PL Adhesive when putting in some of the framing and decking in my boat, when it dried it seemed solid but flexable.
 

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Paul Bell

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Nov 22, 2008
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Re: Deck soft spot adventure 89 celebrity224se

It seems like a very sensible and potentially much easier method than having to go the traditional route.Thanks for the advice!
 
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