Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

[Mike Langianese]

Last week I put a deposit on a 1986 –25’ Boston Whaler Outrage with twin Evinrude 150’s (1991 rebuilt in 1997). The purchase is pending results of compression check as well as a mechanics written evaluation of the engines and a sea trial. What should I look for during the sea trial? <br />All suggestions/help is very much appreciated.<br />Mike

 

[tully_mars]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

If it has a T-top make sure the mounts are in good shape around the deck area. It might behoove you to call Whaler and they can fax you a "wood locating diagram" so you can verify the T-top was installed properly. <br /><br />If it has hydraulic steering make sure it is not leaking any place inidicating the seals would be worn out in it. Hard to drive home with no steering. <br /><br />For the boat, check for gel-coat blisters as you would on any boat, just to make sure it hasn't been abused by someone leaving it in the water too long. This is costly to fix. <br /><br />The 25 Outrage is one of the best Whalers ever IMO, I hope it works out for you. It will hold its value well provided it is well cared for.<br /><br />TM

 

[Mike Langianese]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

TM,<br /><br />I drove to see the boat before I put my deposit on it. I’m not positive but I think that I remember that the T-top was mounted to the center-console, not to the deck. Will this be a problem? At one time the previous owner had a bimini top installed then replaced it with the T-top. <br />The boat was in the water so a hull inspection wasn’t possible, the deck looked very good to my eye, only some very minor cracking in the gel coat on the forward deck (almost looked like fine scratches in the finish). Originally looking for an I/O, after reading some threads on maintenance and winterizing switched to outboards on a CC of no particular brand. Then read JB’s and other Whaler owners’ comments on their Whalers thought Id look for an 18’ Outrage or Montauk, (found this boat for less than most 18’s). I’ll advise what I find when we haul it out of the water.<br />Why do you think that the 25 is one of the best Whalers? <br />Thanks for the advice.<br /><br />Mike

 

[BillP]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

I would look for water in the foam core or a too heavy boat for the power (If you read BW foam taking on water is a myth, take that statement with a BIG grain of salt because they can and do absord water if the hull is compromised). About the only way to tell is by weighing and checking against factory spec. Weigh the boat and deduct motors and gear. Check rpms of engine at cruising speed and see if the motors are running too hard for your comfort level and pocket book. Do a search and see what the gph is for those motors at different rpms. This will also help you determine what the cruising range is. <br /><br />Here's why:<br />A friend of mine worked for Happel Marine in Florida. They did the interiors and accessories for BW (and many other big name brands)and he was a designer who worked with the BW factory. In the mid 80s he talked about BW asking them to reduce weight because their Outrages were suffering from performance (as in WAY too heavy to make up with bigger motors). I'm not sure which model it was but 30' with inboards comes to mind.

 

[Mike Langianese]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

Bill,<br /><br />The broker normally sells the “Big Boys” at very high dollars; they took this boat in as trade to keep as a personal fishing boat. They will provide a “report” on the hull moisture content. My understanding is that they did this for themselves because they were keeping the boat. I know that I should take everything they say with a grain of salt; I like the guy and tend to trust him. I have searched the forum and found that if water is in the foam it can be dried out with some time and work but it’s fixable. Will Whaler be able to provide the original specs for the boat? They no longer market the 25’, only a 24’ and a 27’. <br />Does anyone know the WOT rpm readings should be for 1991 Evinrude 150’s?<br />Thanks for the help,<br /><br />Mike

 

[tully_mars]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

Michael,<br /><br />I haven't ever quite seen a T-top mounted only to the console, but I wouldn't think this to be the best of ideas. I wouldn't let this be a deal breaker, but just be prepared to have some modifications to the top so it can be mounted to the plates in the deck that are there for t-tops. The stress created by the weight of the top can work the console loose over time. The console wasn't made to have structures mounted to it.<br /><br />Nice thing about aluminum construction, it is all custom so just about anything can be done, and it shouldn't be that much but a few hundred dollars to get your supports right on something like this. <br /><br />If the boat has been in the water for a long period of time then it needs to be bottom painted. Bottom paint is two fold, it seals the boat so the gel-coat does not blister and prevents marine growth, but it also hides damage. If the paint is old then you can figure they are not hiding too much, but if it is new just have it inspected. <br /><br />The water in the hull could be quickly checked by taking the boat on a trailer to a truck stop and weighing it. Water in the foam can become quite heavy and is NOT easily removed. It can take months or years depending on the amount in the boat. Though it is very rare that this happens on a properly maintained boat. <br /><br />The obvious places to check for water around the hull are where electronics were mounted on the transom (transducers) or drain tubes. Make sure all the drain tubes are in good condition and none of them are corroded through. You can remove a screw on a transducer mount and check for moisture the next day to see if there is water there. If if it is it may only be in the transom which then you would need to check for transom rot. <br /><br />Don't get scared, these are just all things to check on any boat you are buying. All boats have a history which can be good or bad depending on the previous owners.<br /><br />Tully Mars

 

[Lou C]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

I don't think I would buy a boat if I could not inspect the entire hull with the boat out of the water, you want to see if it was damaged and repaired. It is true that some bottom paints will cover or hide damage and patched areas. I am not familiar with the construction of a Whaler, but I would advise you to have a surveyer who is familar with these boats check it. No such thing as being too careful on a used boat purchase!

 

[BillP]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

Mike,<br />I agree with other stuff already posted. Always inspect(surveyor is best)the boat bottom out of water...no exceptions unless you are willing to take expensive chances. Reputable dealers will tell you that is the best procedure.<br /><br />It is extremely difficult to dry out a foamed boat. Anyone who cuts boats up knows it is almost impossible to evacuate h20 from saturated foam. Air drying is too localized and gravity will not remove h2o that is trapped in the cells. <br />Checking by infrared will show the wet stuff and visual inspections are a guessing game.<br /> <br />On the flipside, SOME water in the foam is normal and wouldn't keep me from purchasing unless the weight was excessive.<br /><br />Check this link for some comparative info: http://www.whaler.com/Rec/newsarticles/files/power_boat.pdf

 

[Mike Langianese]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

Thanks all for the input, if the boat passes the "sea trial" then I will have it put on a trailer to inspect the hull . The broker tells me that he has a written infrared report on moisture in the hull; I will go over the hull with a fine toothcomb.<br />BillP thanks for the link to the Whaler article, the price agreed on is well below the 2001 price for the boat plus the deal includes “new” Furuno Radar, radio, Interphase forward sounder, loran and Garmin GPS, second sounder as well as Simrad auto pilot but I do need to find a trailer. <br />Thanks again<br /><br />Mike

 

[Jack Shellac]

Re: Deposit on Whaler- Advice during sea trial?

WOT operating range for those motors is 4500-5500 RPM. Good luck, hope things work out for you as it sounds like a nice rig.