Dieseled and hydrolocked 4.3

Pruno

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Oct 9, 2019
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My wife said she wanted to go for a gondola ride in Venice, I guess paddling our SeaRay across one of the finger lakes is as close as she's going to get.

The short story is we hydrolocked on the water and I'm seeking advice on what I should checkout so I don't end up with a giant paperweight.
Engine S/N - unknown I believe it's a reman and correlates to merc manual 25. Fresh water boat. Raw water cooled.

The long version- I give this information as I'm unsure if any of this is in the error chain that lent us to be dead on the water. First, the exhaust bellows slipped off the bell housing a few weeks ago. I tried a few times to get it back on, but it kept sliding off. Doing some research led me to leaving it disconnected for the last few outings of the season. Second, the day before, I noticed water dripping from the starboard exhaust boot (in the area in the photo). Which means water was moving up between the boot and elbow, which I dont understand. I thought that maybe I lost the flapper and it was backfilling the exhaust, but after inspection the exhaust flapper is in place as it should be. The other part of this is the starboard exhaust was much warmer than port.

On to being hydrolock. We were idling all day long. When we decided to return to the ramp I wanted to "runup" the engine before putting on the trailer. So got up on plane and around 3 grand I started having issues with my ignition fuse shorting in and out (knew if the problem - though I had it fixed). So the engine is on-off-on-off in in rapid succession then as it completely cut out the engine start dieseling for probably 15 seconds. Then, as said before on this forum, the last few revs that sound funny sucked a bunch of water into the engine. Fortunately, I had a spark plug socket with me and was able to immediately remove the plugs. The number 4 was the only cylinder that had water when I pulled the plugs. However, when I cranked the engine water kept coming out of cylinders 2, 6 and one of the port cylinders, I think # 1. Because water never stopped coming out if the cylinders I decided it was best to start paddling. Got the boat home, shot some oil into the cylinders, cranked engine on muffs and still had a couple spurts of water coming out. Oil level was good and no evidence of milk. I decided to disconnect the water on the inside transom, so that the impeller still had water, but was not putting water into block if there's a crack somewhere. Fired her up and it ran great. Let it run until the exhaust manifolds started getting warm and then shut it down. And that's where we stand now.

I'm thinking tomorrow I'll extract some oil and inspect. Compression test. Maybe pressure test the cooling system? I'll have to research how to do that. I'm a bit nervous the water found it's way into the cylinder besides from the instance of running backwards. I could see though how it might be that the exhaust manifold completely filled with water and it wasnt going to give up the water until I pulled it out of the lake. As we were bobbing in the waves I could hear the water pushing and pulling high in the manifold, way above the waterline.

Of course the story wouldn't be complete if I didn't mention this was our first mini-vaca without the kiddos. On the way out we came upon a jack knifed trailer on the thruway blocking all lanes of traffic, we were able to stop but the semi behind us was not and ended up hitting us and 2 other cars. Fortunately every one involved was ok, and we only suffered some minor damage to the truck and boat.
 

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Furbird

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Jul 8, 2020
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The dieseling is what did it. I'd be surprised if it didn't bend something so if the compression test comes out good go buy a powerball ticket. But you've got to have a failure in the exhaust somewhere because it sounds like it inhaled quite a bit of water.
 

nola mike

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Your assessment sounds likely. If you ever get dieseling, turn the key back to the run position, the engine will restart. Let it idle for a while before shutting it back down.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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when a motor diesels, it is running on the fuel from the carb and hot-spots in the combustion chambers.

the last few revolutions are the motor running backwards. that is when it will ingest large amounts of water.

pull plugs, spin motor over, re-install plugs get motor on muffs and run it until its warm

then fix the causes of the dieseling.
 

Pruno

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Oct 9, 2019
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There's no doubt the dieseling caused the hydrolock. I knew that turning the engine back on to stop it dieseling, but since it was a short in the ignition fuse I couldnt keep it running though I tried in vain. I'm sure that with the ignition cutting in and out in succession, I pulled a bunch of fuel in that wasnt getting burnt, and that caused it to diesel.
I'm hopeful that the last few revs backwards didn't have enough power to bend anything. I did run the motor last night and it fired and ran easily. It did smell oily, but I assume that was from squirting oil right into the cylinders.
I was thinking last night about the volume of water that would be in the exhaust manifold, and that maybe I didn't spin the engine enough to expel the water. My initial thought was that only the cylinders would have water, but the manifolds must have been filled too. Haven't been able to get to work on it yet today but will post once I have more info.
Thanks for the replies.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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13,024
The cutting in and out due to the ignition fuse is probably what sucked water up the exhaust, that actually can create a vacuum in the exhaust and pull the water up. This is why Volvo/Penta used one way check valves on their exhaust elbows on the 4.3s after they went to Vortec heads and revised camshaft they found that excessive vacuum in the exhaust pulses pulled water up the exhaust. So they used these one way check valves that prevent a vacuum from developing in the exhaust (they allow air in but no exhaust out) and also changed the shape of the aluminum 90* exhaust pipes that are between the elbows and the Y pipe, they made the angle of it sharper to prevent water from climbing up back toward the elbows...
 

nola mike

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I was thinking last night about the volume of water that would be in the exhaust manifold, and that maybe I didn't spin the engine enough to expel the water. My initial thought was that only the cylinders would have water, but the manifolds must have been filled too.

Never really thought about that, but you're probably right.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
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well sure once water is in a cyl, as long as the engine is still turning it will also go into the exhaust manifold and don't be surprised to find rust in the intake as well, same reason. Get all the water out fast. I had to do this when I had salt water in a cyl from a bad head gasket and I was able to save the short block because I drained it and pickled it when it was still out on the mooring.
 

Pruno

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Oct 9, 2019
Messages
62
I think all is well. I pressure tested the cooling system and found no leaks. Compression test posted some excellent numbers. Ran on muffs for a good 15 mins. Got the engine nice and warm. I’m certain all water is gone, and oil still looks good.
Thanks to every one that replied. And thanks to this forum, with out it I probably wouldn’t have had a clue what happened to the boat. This place is a wealth of knowledge!

Matt
 
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