Distributor idle stop screw ?

a70eliminator

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Sep 9, 2007
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Hi, just performed a link-N-synk by the book and it's all pretty straight forward exept for there is no mention of the thumb screw that sets the distributor stop? Depending on where the stop is set greatly effects the throttle cam adjustment, and I'm just not seeing any info on this stop adjustment, this is a 1967 evinrude speedifour with battery ignition. the stop I'm refering to doubles as the wire loom and with a big thumb screw.
 

Evinrude Boater

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Re: Distributor idle stop screw ?

Can you post a photo? I don't see this on my older v-4s.
 

a70eliminator

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Re: Distributor idle stop screw ?

Sure here's some photos of the distributor stop I'm refering to. Both the 80hp speedifour and my 60hp sportfour have it, they are pretty much identical motors except the bore is a little bigger the 80hp and it has different orifice in the carbs.
 

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F_R

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28,226
Re: Distributor idle stop screw ?

That is the idle stop screw. To adjust it, first disconnect the remote control cable, then with motor running in gear, on a boat, in the water, adjust the screw for desired idle RPM with the distributor pulled clear back to the screw.

Once you are satisfied with that, reconnect the remote control. If the control doesn't pull the distributor back against the screw, adjust the control to fit the motor. Don't adjust the motor to fit the control.
 

a70eliminator

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Re: Distributor idle stop screw ?

Well yea I kinda tried that and the engine will die if i pull it all the way to where the stop is now, I'll have to thread the stop out to meet the bump stop.
When I did the sync the first adjustment was advance throttle to align triangle catsing boss to the edge of the sync arm (looking straight down from above) and set the distributor to full advance bump stop and tighten the two screws, then the full throttle wide open stop (arm bumps block casting just as throttle is wide open) adjusted by length of rod with threaded end. Then i set the hash mark to just contact the roller as in the photos.
When I pull the distributor back to the stop is when the hash mark comes way back off the cam roller, in the photos you can see that i do have enough thread to bring the stop out but something just don't seem right having to be screwed out so far. All my pivots are tight with no slop. could something be off in the timing, I ran the engine on the lake today and she opened right up to 4500 idled around 700-800 on my old dash tach, only thing that concerned me was a definate shake at around mid range 2500 or so the engine would begin to miss a beat and shake the boat but then smooth right above 3000 rpm. Thanks guys.
Oh and what I don't get is the little adjusting lever that puts the hash mark in line with roller adjustment changes dramaticly depending on where that idle stop is and nowhere does the book mention it, that I could find.
 
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