Do I really need a barrel or will a direct hose connection suffice?

exodave

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I have a 1967 Johnson V4TL-13 100hp Outboard Motor. For running in the driveway, do I really need to have a barrel of water, or can I just remove the intake screen and hose clamp the garden hose right to the copper inlet pipe? And if I need a barrel, do I need the testing prop indicated in the service manual or should I just remove the prop?
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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Re: Do I really need a barrel or will a direct hose connection suffice?

The copper water inlet tube/pipe would only be accessible if the lower unit was removed.

Do not attempt to open the throttle except while underway on the water, OR with the special factory test propeller. It's okay to race it somewhat for a short period... BUT to try to open the engine up full throttle could set up a runaway engine scenario.

Purchase a large cheap plastic trash can to use as a test barrel. Have the water level 3 or 4 inches above where the lower unit bolts on so that the water pump is covered properly. The water pump is not self priming... if it is not covered with water, it will draw air!
 
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racerone

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Re: Do I really need a barrel or will a direct hose connection suffice?

I believe the poster wants to remove the plate directly above the prop to hook up to the feed pipe to the water pump.
 

F_R

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Re: Do I really need a barrel or will a direct hose connection suffice?

I believe the poster wants to remove the plate directly above the prop to hook up to the feed pipe to the water pump.

I've never heard of anybody doing such a thing, but it looks like it might be possible. On the other hand, it might just blow the copper pipe out of the grommet at the upper end.
 
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oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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Re: Do I really need a barrel or will a direct hose connection suffice?

The copper water inlet tube/pipe would only be accessible if the lower unit was removed.

Do not attempt to open the throttle except while underway on the water, OR with the special factory test propeller. It's okay to race it somewhat for a short period... BUT to try to open the engine up full throttle could set up a runaway engine scenario.

Purchase a large cheap plastic trash can to use as a test barrel. Have the water level 3 or 4 inches above where the lower unit bolts on so that the water pump is covered properly. The water pump is not self priming... if it is not covered with water, it will draw air!


A flusher would work at low rpms if, well, flushing the motor -- if there is one to fit or one that can be cut to fit. It's more convenient in the driveway. BUT, the plastic trash can is better overall with a little more effort. It's all highly technical, of course, but I recommend a plastic can with wheels to help a little in slipping it under the lower unit. Also, you have to be able to drain it before pulling it out from under the unit. I have a pvc hose faucet at the bottom on my current model (have used pvc thru hulls before, with screw in caps -- couldn't find one this last time). Fill well above the engine intake, maybe up to or nearly up to the top of the container. I also keep a hose at the back of the leg well out of the way of the prop, and keep it running to insure there's plenty of water and it doesn't overheat from the exhaust.

advantage is it's less noisy (good for neighbors), and also gives back pressure if trying to test or tweak. Can test out shifting (in adjusting carb idle, for example), but shouldn't rev too much beyond high idle, and then only for short bursts. I've always done this without a test prop, largely because I'm cheap and have a lot of different motors. I think that's probably fine as long as you are not gunning it, but that's another shadetree opinion.
 

coolbri70

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Oct 6, 2011
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Re: Do I really need a barrel or will a direct hose connection suffice?

I prefer running in a tub because its quieter and doesn't spray 2 stroke all over my garage door
 

exodave

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Jun 8, 2010
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Re: Do I really need a barrel or will a direct hose connection suffice?

I prefer running in a tub because its quieter and doesn't spray 2 stroke all over my garage door
Ok, that's my favorite answer and thanks for the heads up about that potential face-palm

A flusher would work at low rpms if, well, flushing the motor -- if there is one to fit or one that can be cut to fit. It's more convenient in the driveway. BUT, the plastic trash can is better overall with a little more effort. It's all highly technical, of course, but I recommend a plastic can with wheels to help a little in slipping it under the lower unit. Also, you have to be able to drain it before pulling it out from under the unit. I have a pvc hose faucet at the bottom on my current model (have used pvc thru hulls before, with screw in caps -- couldn't find one this last time). Fill well above the engine intake, maybe up to or nearly up to the top of the container. I also keep a hose at the back of the leg well out of the way of the prop, and keep it running to insure there's plenty of water and it doesn't overheat from the exhaust.

advantage is it's less noisy (good for neighbors), and also gives back pressure if trying to test or tweak. Can test out shifting (in adjusting carb idle, for example), but shouldn't rev too much beyond high idle, and then only for short bursts. I've always done this without a test prop, largely because I'm cheap and have a lot of different motors. I think that's probably fine as long as you are not gunning it, but that's another shadetree opinion.

I guess I'll have to go this route. I only asked because last Summer I bought a trash can, and then sliced it open on the prop trying to get it back after running the engine in it. So, I guess now I'll have 2 trash cans for trash, one broken trash can, and one slightly larger better trash can with a spigot installed at the bottom to let the water out (and a garage full of trash cans). Thanks all! Continuing threads on this great old motor restoration to come shortly for sure.
 
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