Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

[mschmidt33]

A bit confused here on what to do. Here is my current setup and what I want to do:

09' Tahoe Q5i with 4.3 Carb
I have a starting battery and 2nd battery for trolling motor and future stereo/amp, extra lights, etc.

I have a 2 bank charger that works well to top off the starting battery and recharge the 2nd battery after running the trolling motor all day.

With the added lights and amp, I can see the 2nd battery running down very quick at times. I want to ability to charge the 2nd battery when running the engine.

So what would be the best option for me? VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch?

I never want the ability to run down the starting battery and be stranded.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

 

[seabob4]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

While VSRs, ACRs, and combiner/isolators all combine the batts for you automatically, I also prefer the install of a dual batt switch for 2 reasons. First, it lets YOU combine the batts if YOU want to. Second, VSRs and ACRs have a threshold voltage they need to see in order to combine the batts, usually in the mid 13s (voltage). So if the start batt is going south (or the alternator), the threshold voltage won't be there, thus no combining...

 

[Don S]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

While VSRs, ACRs, and combiner/isolators all combine the batts for you automatically, I also prefer the install of a dual batt switch for 2 reasons. First, it lets YOU combine the batts if YOU want to.

So does the Bluesea battery switch and ACR. http://bluesea.com/products/5511e
Every thing is automatic. You turn it on, go boating, leave all the lights on and stereo all night and kill your house batteries only, go start the engine with a fully charged starting battery, all without moving the switch from on.
But, if your start battery fails, just turn the switch to combine (yellow area) and start using the house battery.

So if the start batt is going south (or the alternator), the threshold voltage won't be there, thus no combining..

If your battery or alternator is going south, there isn't any charging without an ACR or an isolator so what's the difference. You can also turn the battery switch to combine and not use the relay.
An isolatator also is almost a full volt (.9) short of fulling charging a battery when everything is perfect.

 

[Silverbullet555]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

blue sea add-a-battery is how I did it and am very happy with the results. Replaced the switch with theirs and added the VSR or ACR whatever it is technically called.

Keeps the batteries separate except at charging.

 

[mschmidt33]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

OK, so I should get a Bluesea 5511e switch and a 7610 ACR. This also comes as a combo called "Add a battery" p/n 7650. correct?

I assume the directions explain the wiring, any hints? What wire is needed? Keep in mind my batteries are 7ft apart.

Thanks again guys.

 

[calvinator]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

x2 on the ACR7610. When running engine, alternator charges both my batteries. Sometimes I use a battery charger too and the ACR will combine the batteries for charging. I have 2 group 24 Walmart Marine batts. One for starting, bilge, running lights. The other for 2 amps, radio, finders, and air inflator.

No switches involved, set it and forget it. Works good for how I (and my forgetful father hahaha) use my boat.

As for wiring, I stuck with 4ga. battery wires.

It might be less expensive to relocate your batteries closer so your 4ga or 2ga. batteries wires are closer(less cost).

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

There is nothing more versatile, simple, and trouble-free (no electronics) than a dual battery switch (OFF - 1, BOTH, 2). You do not have to isolate circuits nor dedicate them to a specific battery. Either battery can be used for any purpose and either or both batteries can be charged or used for starting purposes depending on the switch setting. Most folks tend to over-think the switch and get all befuddled about when to use what setting. It is as simple as asking yourself what battery do i want to do the work at hand. START THE ENGINE?? set the switch to BAT 1 (if that is what you want the starting battery to be). If that battery is dead (doesn't matter why), simply switch to BAT 2. Whatever battery you have selected will be charged by the engine and will run all the accessories since the accessory feed should be to the COM terminal on the switch. In most cases you can Start, run, charge and park with the switch set to BOTH provided you don't park for hours at a time and/or run the troller on that setting. In those cases use BAT 2 (the troller battery). If you are switch-challenged and can't understand this, then a VSR is your best bet. In most cases you don't need both a switch and a VSR. But for versatility, low cost, and simplicity you cannot beat a dual battery switch. The diagram shows an outboard, but pretend it is your 4.3. I should add here that the trolling motor should be wired directly to the troller battery and the bilge pump to whatever battery you wish.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

If you want to be constantly switching your battery switch to make sure both are charged while running and possibly accidentally leaving it in the both position and have 2 dead batteries in the morning then don't use the ACR.

If you want the BEST most reliable and trouble free way, add the ACR and a switch. I highly recommend the BlueSea set up with both the switch and ACR. That is the ACR I use.

The ACR is inexpensive and easy to install. Its such a no-brainer.

 

[Don S]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

There is nothing more versatile, simple, and trouble-free (no electronics) than a dual battery switch (OFF - 1, BOTH, 2). etc., etc., etc.

If you want to spend your boating time running back and forth changing the battery switch, moving people out of the way so you can get to it, fine. Nothing in the world wrong with it.

But modern technology has made it as simple as turning that switch on, go boating and turn it off when you go home. Not even think about what battery is doing what. It's just to easy.

 

[mschmidt33]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

So ACR7610 is really all I need? I have never killed my starting battery and top it off with my charger anyway. Thoughts?

 

[Silverbullet555]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

So ACR7610 is really all I need? I have never killed my starting battery and top it off with my charger anyway. Thoughts?

I think you are better off with the 7650. You get a switch and the ACR making for an awesome combination in my opinion. I like to be able to turn the boat off (with the exception of the bilge pumps) when on the trailer.

 

[Don S]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

You need the kit, here is a link to it.
http://www.iboats.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...8155661--**********.842816259--view_id.729810

Here is more info on installing it.
http://bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990310020.pdf

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

If you want to spend your boating time running back and forth changing the battery switch, moving people out of the way so you can get to it, fine. Nothing in the world wrong with it.

But modern technology has made it as simple as turning that switch on, go boating and turn it off when you go home. Not even think about what battery is doing what. It's just to easy.

Running back and forth to the switch is not necessary. When you switch depends on what you are doing and what the requirements are at the time. As I mentioned in my response, "if one is switch challenged" then that may not be the solution.

 

[mschmidt33]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

OK, here is what else I think I need and some more questions:

- Bunch of 4ga (70 amp alt)
- Two ~100amp fuses for A and B to battery
- Some 16ga
- 10amp fuse
- Various connectors

1) Do I really remove all of my house loads to the switch? Can I keep anything hooked up direct to the batteries?
2) Is side 1 for the 2nd (house) battery?
3) Where would the bus bar be on my boat and wouldn't these connections already be wired except the 16ga ground to ACR?
4) I do not know which wire to connect to side 2 of the switch from the engine. The alternator has a couple 10ga wires running to the starter maybe? Then from that area I see a pos. and neg. 4 ga wires running to the battery. Which one do I use?
5) Do I want optional remote LED?
6) Do I want optional start isolation? The ACR instructions seem sound like this is not optional

 

[Silverbullet555]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

I cheated on my install a bit. I didn't remove any loads from the house battery. But, when I installed my stereo, all 3 amps went into the stereo battery as well as all the accessories that went with it. I left the head unit to the starting battery and the other items that came prewired such as blower, lights, horn, etc.

The head unit draws essentially nothing since I am not using the built in amp and I am running group 31 batteries with plenty of reserve. I've sat for 3 hours or so with the stereo playing and the starting battery is fully charged in the 15 minute ride back to the ramp. The stereo battery on the other hand may take 3-4 days with a battery tender junior to come back up. I new charger is on my list.

 

[Don S]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

1) Do I really remove all of my house loads to the switch? Can I keep anything hooked up direct to the batteries?

It's probably already that way. Most manufacturers have separate wiring for the accessories panel. I have no idea how your boat is wired, actually being able to see and trace wiring is a necessity if you don't have a wiring diagram from the manufacturer.

2) Is side 1 for the 2nd (house) battery?

One side is for starting battery the other is for house battery/s You would parallel the two house batteries together.

3) Where would the bus bar be on my boat and wouldn't these connections already be wired except the 16ga ground to ACR?

Hard to say where it is or if you even have one, you will have to look and be able to understand your wiring

4) I do not know which wire to connect to side 2 of the switch from the engine. The alternator has a couple 10ga wires running to the starter maybe? Then from that area I see a pos. and neg. 4 ga wires running to the battery. Which one do I use?

Before you do anything, you need to make a drawing of your present battery wiring system so we have a starting point.
Doesn't have to be fancy, hand drawn and scanned will work.

It would also help if you post some pictures of where you have your present batteries and where you plan to mount the switch and ACR

5) Do I want optional remote LED?
6) Do I want optional start isolation? The ACR instructions seem sound like this is not optional

Not at this point.

 

[109jb]

There is nothing more versatile, simple, and trouble-free (no electronics) than a dual battery switch (OFF - 1, BOTH,

And yet they do fail. My father had one go belly up and a friend just replaced his. In my father's case, he could not get his engine to start on any setting ( bat 1, bat2, or both). took the cables off the switch and connected them together with a bolt and the engine fired right up. the only thing taken out of the equation was the switch itself Not sure what was wrong with my buddies, but replacing it solved the problem.

I have the little 16 footer in my avatar and i use it for fishing. I have it set up with a battery isolator for the 2nd battery. Battery 1 is the starting battery and also runs the nav/anchor lights, and bilge pump. Battery 2 is a deep cycle that runs the trolling motor, fishfinder, and radio. The isolator has wprked great for me and has given me no problems. I had an isolator on my previous boat too. The thing i like about it is that it charges both batteries when running the engine, but won't run down the starting battery when trolling or using the radio and is totally automatic. I don't have to remember to switch a switch like my dad has to do. I can troll all day and know my starting battery will work. If I ever need the 2nd battery to start the engine in an emergency I can just switch the cables in about a minute.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

As stated earlier, a diode based isolator will not allow the batteries to get fully charged because of the diode voltage drop. An ACR(VSR is a different name for the same thing) is a much better choice.

A switch is a mechanical item so like anything mechanical, can wear out. That is why it is important to get a high quality switch like the BlueSea and have the ACR to limit the number of times it needs to get switched back and forth from the batteries which is what the ACR solves.

 

[mschmidt33]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

Thanks guys. I will post some pictures this week and make a sketch. Thanks for all your help!

 

[djpeters]

Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch... Help Please.

Deleted my Hi-Jack...carry on.